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Everything posted by Gregory
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Might be because water and water based products have a tendency to raise the grain of the wood.. Also something to think about when painting, if the wood hasn't been sealed..
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Focus Stacking
Gregory replied to Dennis P Finegan's topic in Photographing your work. How to do this.
After reading your post, I took a closer look at a Panasonic FZ80 I had my sights on for a camera upgrade. Turns out it has 'focus stacking' and calls it 'post focus'.. It has two different modes that I haven't fully explored, plus I have a lot to learn about optimizing all the features on this camera, but for now, I'm pretty much going with the automatic basic settings.. Anyway, here is my first experiment in ' focus stacking .. This is a shot using the auto-focus feature of the camera.. I think the 2nd gun from the front was what the camera focused on. Here is a shot using the " post focus " feature. Rick mentioned it takes a ' short movie'. One second of 30 frames to be exact, where it shifts the focus from front to back, then merges them into one image. Processing only takes a few seconds. I have a lot to learn about using the camera, but this feature shows some promise for taking better pictures of model ships. -
Cured CA is plastic, so it could get brittle under the same conditions any plastic would. Sunlight would probably be the biggest influence.. Next up, would be extreme temperature.
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These come from Amazon. Happened more than once when I was refining the process.. I used a thin grinding disk to rough up the inside edges. I use high RPM and move the piece slowly.. I realize there is more at risk when using limited kit parts, but I make my own carriages, so it's no big deal to make a new one if I break one.
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Harold Hahn method
Gregory replied to Essayons's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
There is some comprehensive information about Hahn and his models here: Harold Hahn - The man and his models -
Has your wood darkened, or is that just the lighting.. It really looks good..
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Impressive! The look like they are carved..
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Do you think these would lend themselves to some lamination like you did with the hair brackets?
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I can't wait to see how Chuck tackles the head rails. I'm sure it will be something to carry forward with any future build.
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I've used sanding sticks to round off square axles but I came up with something that works better for me. I use a brass collet in a rotary tool. Smooth and perfectly round.
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While I don't foresee tackling the Winnie, I hope you keep coming with the 10s.. They are a great resource to enhance any kit or scratch build.
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With some time to spare, you might hold out for the New kit from Amati..
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Don't forget the Medway Longboat There are several Master Korabel kits with pre-cut planks.. Another nice one is the Schooner Polotsk seen in this log:
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Planking Question
Gregory replied to Malazan's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
This works, but can be a challenge to look nice and clean.. Not that this shouldn't always be your goal. Having a rabbet at least at the stem, gives you a little wiggle room for shaping the ends of the planks and having a nice clean look and fit. -
Planking Question
Gregory replied to Malazan's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
The Rabbet ( rebate ) is a groove that the planks fit into at the Stem and along the keel. Here is Glbarlow's Cheerful.. The ends of the planks butt into the rabbet at the stem. The garboard plank sits in the rabbet along the keel. In modeling it can be simulated in a couple of different ways .. It isn't always necessary to cut it.. In this topic, I showed an example of how a thin strip down the center of the keel and stem simulates the rabbet when separate keel and stem pieces are added to the backbone in a plank-on-bulkhead model.. There are probably hundreds if not thousands of examples in the build logs.. Just search for " rabbet " ..
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