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Gregory

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Everything posted by Gregory

  1. Great start! I look forward to your progress.. Do you have plans for sourcing the figurehead and carvings at 1:35, or will you be carving it all yourself?
  2. The OP has the necessary tools to do the iron on transfers. You suggested a different method that required different tools and a different skill set.. I was just curious as to what would be the advantage in adapting your method.
  3. Allan, I can't be sure what the thread count is/was, but as I said, I gave gone to a ' thrift shop' and found a shirt or blouse that was made of very fine material where the weave was very difficult to discern. I'll try to find a scrap and see if it is as fine as my memory thinks it is. It may well have been 750 or less.. It may have been silk. I got past the "expensive" part by shopping at Goodwill, etc.. As fine as the material is, the look will not hold up at most popular scales, with any sewing, as you and others have pointed out. I am not much for making sails due to many of the concerns voiced by yourself and others.. I am of the opinion that " if you must do it, try this or this and do the best you can ".. I think the OP has come up with a good idea that I will have to try myself.
  4. I think the longevity may depend on the ink rather than the medium.. If you have photo quality ink that has UV protection, it should last as long as a good quality color photo. You might also add a light coat of something like Scotchguard or other UV blocker..
  5. What would be the advantage of your method over the iron on transfer? The OP wants these features: I have used the iron on transfer for other projects and the final result is a very fine film. The details are only limited by the original artwork and the resolution of the printer..
  6. I think modeller_masa has come up with a great idea to have sails that resemble the box art without using the form sails provided in the kit. I would suggest the importance of real looking, scale appropriate sails may not be a realistic or desirable goal in this case. What kind of printer would you need for printing on a non-rigid material like silkspan? I have printed on tissue paper by taping it to card stock, but it still has a tendency to gather and tear if it is not perfectly flat. Do they have clothing re-sale shops in the EU? I have found some very fine, high thread count materials in fine men's shirt or women's dresses in these stores. A lot of possible sail material at a very low cost.
  7. John Fox III just posted this in another topic: I hadn't see this before, but it looks like it might be a great tool for tracing/designing parts for our lasers.. QCAD
  8. Great suggestion John! I have not heard of that before but it looks like a great 2D design/drawing program. It looks like a great resource for laser work. A robust tracing feature is at the heart of laser work. QCAD It is open source and free..
  9. Actually, with this hull form, the planking fans out at the stern for several planks.. This is a snip from the Cheerful plans drawn by Chuck.. Without wider planking stock this is not possible. Your plans may show what are called stealers that are used to fill in gaps that would develop if the uniform planking strips are used..
  10. Something to keep in mind: I rarely include tabs on my parts to be cut after the laser is done. With no tabs, air assist can blow small parts around, to end up in the exhaust or in the path of the laser down range. Air assist is more useful for me on thicker stock, greater than 1/16..
  11. Before I had my 40w C02, I used a low power laser for scoring on anything thicker than 1/32, followed up with a scroll saw, which tended to follow the scoring.
  12. Have you settled on the Domanoff type machine? While I have seen that it can produce decent scale rope they can be problematic and limited when it comes to making a wide variety of rope. For different size rope, you would have to change the bobbins, and you are limited to four strands of any one size. Which means for a particular size rope made from a particular size thread, to get a larger rope, you would have to make 2 or more lines, then wind them onto bobbins, and proceed to make larger rope from them. With a rope walk like the Syren Rope Rocket, you don't have to worry about bobbins, you just use any length of thread, depending on the length of the line you want to make. You can also increase the size of the rope by adding more threads to the 4 whorls that make up the heart of the machine. It is not as compact as the Domanoff, but is much more versatile. Then there is the Frolic style, discussed here: , but requires a lot of DYI.. There are a lot of satisfied Rope Rocket users here at MSW.
  13. While we are at it: I just came across this in my browsing. An America model by Loyd McCaffery I can see myself using a similar design on a future project.. Simple but very elegant.
  14. Does Glowforge have air assist? It will reduce charring somewhat. I have found the amount of charring has the most to do with the type of wood and how seasoned it is.
  15. Embedded in the PDF are some links: Those links are broken. The domain is dead..
  16. Once again Chris, my comments were not questioning the quality of your work. I just found the MDF cradle to look rather incongruous in the context of the box art..
  17. The acetate is very nice. I was reluctant to make comments that sound critical, I just felt the MDF cradle really detracted from the otherwise beautiful model in the photographs..
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