AJohnson

Same experience here, that particular plank was the hardest. As and Andy and Craig mention the planks above and below are approx. 90 degrees different in section. Don’t be tempted to try and twist it, as the guys have said sand it to shape and if you are painting filler is your friend!

Very nice Greg! 👏

Welcome to MSW, nice looking model! 👍

Very good, a real sense of achievement for you hopefully after your brave decision to re-start the planking and it has turned out so much better! 👏 Good luck on the second planking and do please keep us updated on your progress! 😁

Your “Nisha” looks great Andy, you have done great job. 👏 Whats your next project? 🤔

Hi Dan, thank you for your comments. As for the bulwark stanchions, the positions where they were to be glued after painting were protected by strips of masking tape and then peeled off. (The thicker lining style masking tape) That way there was a ‘wood - to - wood’ contact surface for them (as we know paint and glue are not good friends). I did find that after priming and painting the position marks were still visible on the inner bulwarks, so no need to worry about them disappearing unless you put loads of thick paint on.

Agreed, even if ‘Indy’ does edge a few hundred north of this due to material costs, then there is no comparison.

Chris you are never going to please all of the people all of the time. Having experienced just one of your smaller kits from your “Vanguard” incarnation and have a few built and on the shelf from your Caldercraft years. I know your heart is in producing the best you can for the ‘hobby’ builder. Some look down on “kit” builders (even on MSW) but they are the overwhelming minority. All I know is even if I do a scratch build a model in the future, it is on the foundations provided by you when I built your great kits over the years. So guesstimating your “Indy” might be in the range of £1,500ish.to £2000+ that broken down into the hours of absorbing “hobby” time to build it makes your kits a bargain compared to Golf / Gym membership or a few visits to decent restaurants. I know there are some on MSW who will say that will buy loads of power tools to make something from scratch, that is true but overlooks personal circumstances and space for a workshop, not something we all have. Please follow your gut/heart for your future developments, be it inspired by Hornblower or History, we are in your wake! Whilst my kids live at home there might not be room at the Inn for an “Indefatigable”, but I might squeeze in a 36 or 38…. Keep us posted. 👍👏

Ah unfortunately I can't use that as an excuse Steven as Paper Shipwright tell you! 😆 - Four flashes and a pause of 15 seconds, then repeat.

Oh no, I actually hadn’t thought about it, but it is so obvious now, doh!🤦‍♂️ What have you done, I’m going to have to think about that….. 🤣

Or one of the Lively/Leda Frigates? - "Macedonian", "Shannon", "Trincomalee", just saying (hoping!) one year.... 😁 🤞

The build has commenced! As mentioned at the start I had cut out the base board and glued it onto some dense fibre board and cut this to size and painted the perimeter border white. My new fixative spray arrived earlier today, so everything was given a coat to help protect the printing. I did some easy laminating first; some parts (like the tower gallery bases need to be thicker than the rest of the parts so you need to score a fold line and glue them together first. These have been left to dry flattened between some heavy books. Others building card models have recommended Canopy glue and it does seem to work very well - almost too well in fact, it grabs very quickly! I very quickly decided I need to pinch one of my daughters homework folders to keep everything safe and flat, away from accidental spillages and the like, as card doesn't clean up so easily as plastic when you spill your tea/coffee/beer... plus it helped me to organise the instructions and parts into the "Tower of Doom" and the Keeper's house. First stage is to assemble the main tower, but first there is the 'option' to use some windows to provide some 3D relief rather than just the printed windows on the outside of the tower. There are optional windows provided to do this if you wish. Looking at this I thought why stop at recessed windows? So I set to make my own Lintels and Sills for the windows, by cutting out little strips from the same card, gluing these on in the position of the printed versions. (Fortunately remembering to log on the reverse the location of actual windows and 'blanks' - a rarity for me the think of such things in advance!) At the end of that process there where some faint remains of the printed black lines I didn't want to see, so I painted the outside in Acrylic white. I finished off the session with attaching the hidden fixing strips and cutting out the saw-tooth tabs ready for assembling the tower, but I will leave that for the next session when everything is dry.

You are making excellent progress there, well done. 👍 and interesting to hear about your comparison for a beginner compared to the Fifie. As for breaking parts, if your not breaking any you ain’t trying hard enough! 🤣 I think the stern counter should sand and fill okay and as you are painting it will be hidden, my only other comment from the pictures is to make sure the combined thickness of the first and second planking matches the rabbet parts added at the stem and stern, poss more sanding back of the first planking might be needed? 🤔

Ah, okay Chris 👍🏻 I wouldn’t want to attract the ire of the shipping gods, we want to keep the ‘non-ship’ subculture under the radar! 🤣

There is quite a fleet growing here on MSW of little Vanguard working craft. 😀

Very nice Andy, on the home stretch! 😃

Well done, what a beautiful little boat. 👏 Looking forward to seeing your “Nisha” take shape next. 👍🏻

Welcome to MSW Steve! 👋

Evening All, Starting a build log for something new to me, a card model! I have been inspired by the logs on MSW of various people turning humble card and paper into masterpieces - not least Chris Coyle and his many tutorials on how to get started - I will be following these for my builds for sure. 👍 I bought a couple of kits from Paper Shipwright, a Clyde Puffer and this Lighthouse, I'm glad I did as I opened the packaging for the Puffer and nearly fell off my chair, there are just loads of tiny pieces to cut out and laminate. So very quickly decided a lighthouse with a square base building might be the better option for my first model. Baby steps and all that... So what I received today was An introduction sheet with a little history of Flamborough Head Lighthouse and general instructions on how to proceed and key symbols to look for in the instructions. The instructions themselves form the next sheet accompanied with two labelled diagrams showing the parts. Finally the two A4 sized card sheets with all the parts on that need cutting out. First step was to seal the sheets with fixative as recommended by Chris in his tutorials, but my can is fairly old and splatters a bit, so I have paused this until I get a fresh can. I did a tiny test area and the fixative does darken the colours slightly, so I do need to do this before I can look at trying to match these colours with paint on the various edges that are going to need it. I did manage to cut out and glue part No.1 (the ground plan) onto some 5mm thick dense fibreboard as my base and painted the edges white. So I will leave things there until I can 'fix' my sheets. Until next time!

Hi Jonathan, nice careful work and well planned. 👍 And good news about your asparagus crops, love asparagus, griddled with Parmesan shavings and good balsamic vinegar. 😛

The hull shape looks quite similar to Nisha, as you have built both, do you think it will be the same second planking wise?

I do like a Hellcat and the Cats mouth adds to the unmistakable deadly lines. The 1/24 Airfix was a beast, so a 1/33 scale one is going to be impressive! 😲

Hi Jonathan, Great to see another "Nisha" join the fleet! 😃 Do not worry, I have stopped counting the number of times I have broken my "Nisha" 😆 Good save by making replacement parts! 👍 (Pulling up a virtual chair to follow your build.) 🍿

Very nice Dave, was wondering where you’d got to! Very nice set up. 👍 I also work in the garage but find I need heating and I had an insulated door fitted to replace the old Henderson crinkled metal one.

My rigging avoidance tactics are coming on a treat and the trawl beam and heads are now assembled and I have attached a ground rope, complete with chain "ticklers" and bridles; including the smaller Dandy bridle used to help bring the aft trawl head alongside. I have tried out the position of the trawl beam/head assembly on the model to see how it would be stowed. According to Edgar Marsh the forward trawl head was lashed securely in between the middle and aft shrouds and the aft end chained at the stern where aft head overhung the taffrail, to avoid the whole rig falling inboard in rough weather, which from the size/weight of it would have been a serious problem! Next up I'm trying out some netting for the actual trawl, I hadn't realised for some reason just how big this was going to be! 😲 The trawl beams according to Marsh were anywhere from 20 to 50 ft long; depending on the individual trawler. "Nisha" was 'middling' size wise, so using the distance from shrouds to just past the stern gave me a scale 38 ft beam, which seems okay. Again according to Marsh the actual nett was twice the beam length, so at 1/64 scale it will be just over 1ft / 300mm long! I think therefore I am going to display it rolled up under the beam! 😆 Thanks for the likes and comments. 😁