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Dan Vadas

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Everything posted by Dan Vadas

  1. Dan Vadas
    I've been rather busy doing other stuff for the last week or so. I've finished the upper hull skinning and just started on the lower skins. A progress report will be coming shortly . Danny
  2. Dan Vadas
    Thank you for dropping in John . It's 1260mm, about 4 feet long. BIG . Danny
  3. Dan Vadas
    Nice one Grant . Probably. Or a bigger motor - someone once said "There's no such thing as TOO MUCH power", and I agree . Are you running a Cav Plate? You might have it adjusted a bit too low. That'll push the bow down. More likely the problem will fix itself when you get a bit more speed out of her . Danny
  4. Dan Vadas
    You'll probably find more problems like this, even the best kits have them. It works in theory but not in the practical world, where if you're even a fraction of a millimetre out when fairing hull frames (pretty easy to do) the assembly won't fit. Better to do the bow section first, then the bottom of the keel which you can trim at the stern, then the sternpost. Danny
  5. Dan Vadas
    I found it on Ebay. There seem to be several colours, but I don't have time to check any further at the moment. The manufacturer seems to be Konrad Hornschuch AG. Danny
  6. Dan Vadas
    J, if you find out what she uses let us know too . It looks like a very handy material for card modelling. Maybe send her a PM? Danny
  7. Dan Vadas
    Why not fill and paint below the waterline with "Anti-fouling" Off- White or Black ? That would remove the bulk of the bumps . I don't know if that was historically accurate back in the late 1400's, but that may not be a concern for you. You could certainly use Acrylic for that. Another option is to fill it and sand smooth. then use "timber" foil like Doris uses on her models. See THIS LINK. Danny
  8. Dan Vadas
    Not really Pav. It's too soft to hold sharp edges, and the grain and colour are nothing to get excited about. It would be OK if you don't actually see any of the framing. Danny
  9. Dan Vadas
    Thanks for the advice Pav, but I also agree with Peter. I'm leaving the deck as it is - bad enough now, worse later if I try to fix it . All the extra card has been fitted and faired. I haven't added any extra bracing between large-spaced bulkheads, I'm going to give it a go the way it is and hope for the best . Before fitting any hull skins I need to do some work on the Portholes. I've got the PE portholes from GPM (2.0mm and 1.6mm) which could just be glued to the hull over the printed ones. I've punched them out and glued some thin clear plastic behind to simulate glass. I'll fit the PE after all the hull has been skinned in case some come off when I'm gluing the skins on : Time to glue the first skin. I'm starting with the upper bands rather than the bottom of the hull as directed by the kit. This way worked well on Amatsukaze and I'm doing the same as I think it's a LOT more important to get the detailed upper skins to fit correctly - they all need trimming (1st pic below), and there's nothing dictating exactly how much to take off the lower skins. The sides have a step inward halfway down which needs a narrow horizontal piece. I fitted this first. When fitting the large skin I managed to muck it up a bit, so a little filler and touch-up will be needed. I have to paint the edges of the paper anyway, so it's no big deal : Danny
  10. Dan Vadas
    G'day Heinrich . Good to see another Card model builder on this site . I suggest you change the title of this thread to : Le Courier by Heinrich der Seefahrer - Shipways - 1:96 scale - CARD and move it to the "Build Logs for Kits" forum. If you don't know how I can do it for you. Danny
  11. Dan Vadas
    G'day Zappto . Have a look at THIS METHOD that I used on my Norfolk Sloop kit. You can use the screws to hold the ship to your building board and later on to mount to your permanent base or pedestals. Instead of making your own "nuts" like I did you could simply use "normal" ones. I suggest you use Stainless Steel or brass ones to prevent any corrosion. Danny
  12. Dan Vadas
    G'day Geezer, and a welcome from down south . "Sirius" is a fairly good kit from all accounts, but she may be a bit of a handful to learn planking on. I'd suggest one of Modeller's Shipyard's smaller offerings like the Norfolk Sloop, Port Jackson Schooner or Mary Byrne. In my build log of the Norfolk Sloop (link in my signature) I do a "Plank by Plank" description of how I cut, shaped and laid each one, which may be helpful to you. Danny
  13. Dan Vadas
    Thanks for looking in Popeye, Carl, Scott, Slog, Chris and Alan. The bulkheads would have been very wobbly and difficult to fair without them, not to mention that they'd have possibly moved as I attached the skins. They are VERY solid now, almost as stable as timber . Forget about that - the printed planks are only 1mm wide, and there are about 150 in the width of the deck. They'd also have to be no more than about 0.1mm thick - even then not ALL of the deck is planked (e.g. on the edges where there is a narrow strip of "steel"), so there would be a step where they finish. I can live with it, they probably won't be noticeable when everything else is fitted . Danny
  14. Dan Vadas
    The three sections of Deck are on and I've finished adding all the extra card to the bulkheads etc, and also added some between the upper, middle and lower "decks" to remove any slight bows between the wider spaced bulkheads as well as stiffening everything up. Now to spend a day or so Fairing everything. I'm not all that happy about the printing on the deck timber, the joins stand out a lot more because the colours of the planks don't match at the joins : Danny
  15. Dan Vadas
    What join for the railing ends? I can't see it - must be my old modeller's eyes . Well done, now don't lean your thumb on it when you go to attach something else later on (don't ask how I know ). Danny
  16. Dan Vadas
    It's always a great moment when you apply the clear finish and see all that beautiful timber come to "life" . A word of caution regarding the aft Timberheads, if you're not already aware of it. Most of them aren't simply a straight cut like those on the forecastle, nearly every one of them has an increasing angle that follows the sheer as you travel aft and you'll need to adjust your saw to suit. They are also cut on an angle athwartships due to the greater tumblehome. Danny
  17. Dan Vadas
    Thanks Pav, I'll let you know if I do. I'm not overly fussed by the model they show on their website. It looks half-finished, no railings for starters. The black lines look very stark also. Danny
  18. Dan Vadas
    And for my way of tapering masts. However, you need to start with square stock. Danny
  19. Dan Vadas
    I've spent two days adding extra pieces of 0.5mm card to the bulkheads to thicken them up a bit, and also adding longitudinal stringers from 1mm card to stiffen the bulkheads prior to Fairing (I haven't started that yet). I used the leftovers from the bulkhead sheets as a template to draw the shapes of each bulkhead to the extra card : Danny
  20. Dan Vadas
    Carl ..... I found a Yamato 1:200 . I noticed that it's currently available too. Hmmmm ....... Danny
  21. Dan Vadas
    That was my plan - I really liked the other Halinski kit. Whoa - I'm already 64 years old. One at a time . Danny
  22. Dan Vadas
    Probably HMS Hood Pav. Bismarck needs a "companion" . Danny
  23. Dan Vadas
    Very nice Jeff . One thing though - the gratings and their surrounds have a curve athwartships in the top. The higher up the deck is, the more the curvature. It's easy enough to sand the curve into it before fitting them to the deck, using a sanding block or stick. A 20mm wide grating on the Main Deck would have about 2mm of curvature. The Forecastle and Quarterdeck Gratings would have about 3mm for a similar width one. Danny
  24. Dan Vadas
    Thanks for joining in guys, and also for the Birthday wishes . Yep, yellowy coloured Cardboard for the frames - 1mm thick. Jan, I got a nice surprise when I had a look at the laser-cut sheets. There are additional strips already the right shape to be glued to the edges of the waterline "deck" to which the upper and lower skins are glued together (just like the ones I advised you to make ). I'll be gluing extra card to both sides of each bulkhead as well, and also adding longitudinal stringers between the bulkheads. This time I won't be gluing the skins to the stringers though - I think some of the skins on Amatsukaze were pulled in by the glue. They'll just be there to avoid any accidental crushing of the skins. Danny
  25. Dan Vadas
    Option C will help, but you'll have some trouble gluing the skins on straight. I'd opt for Option A - you need to start straight or you'll face serious problems later on. I tend to agree with your diagnosis - lousy cardboard. Danny

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