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Stevinne

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Everything posted by Stevinne

  1. Get the Mastini book. It is designed for the beginner and will help you immensely. If this is the first layer of planking, it looks pretty good. Remember, the great thing about working with wood is that a lot can be corrected by sanding later on. Finally, it's been my experience that ship modeling instructions are notoriously bad. If this is the first layer, I would press on while reading mastini and the other links mentioned here. The thing, I find, about instructional posts is often I can't connect them to real world actions until I try to do something. So, if you are like me, read and plank and realize you can always make it better on the second layer. This hobby is supposed to be fun, and a lot of folks probably have hulls they are not so proud of beneath that beautiful second layer of planking.
  2. I'm interested in this kit, so I'll be pulling up a chair and following along.
  3. I've been too lazy to read all the replies. For me, I use a badger double-action airbrush and compressor and model master acrylics. I thin with water or acrylic thinner, but generally adjust the size of the needle to get the spray I want. I find this is easier. Each time I use it, I blow a full bottle of water through it to clean it. Then I check to see if it needs additional cleaning. I go for very thin coats, repeated multiple times. I like the Badger because it is easy to disassemble, clean and get spraying. I'd tried a Model Master airbrush and the thing locked up within 15 minutes, never to be used again.
  4. Seeing one of the Alabama's cannon at the Hunley museum in Charleston, S.C., made me realize that I know next to nothing about how Civil War-era guns were rigged on ships. I've seen large-caliber Dahlgrens and Parrot rifles in fortifications, and figure the pivot/slide arrangement was similar on board ships, but I always figured the 32-pounders and such, like included in the Model Shipways Harriet Lane, were rigged like broadside cannon always had been. Looking at photos from the era, I do see a breech rope, and assume other tackle is there, too. Anyone know for sure?
  5. With the weather warming up, and my son finally completing his Eagle Scout project, I have some time to get back to work. Over the weekend I headed out to my unheated garage work area and completed the first layer of planks. I actually overplanked the forecastle and had to remove one run after looking closely at the drawings. I'm finding the instructions really hard to follow on this build. Also, I'm very stingy with wood. I was reading Fred Hocker's great book on the Vasa, and he talked about how the Dutch craftsmen would be careful not to waste any wood. I make the Dutchmen look generous. Still, I finished the first run of planking with one plank left to spare - and that would have been used if I hadn't saved every scrap and used them when they fit. Not giving me a lot of confidence about finishing this build without a materials run to Model Expo. Next up, planking the stern and the facings on the various cabin walls.
  6. They have a 1.350 resin model here for about $170 http://ironshipwrights.com/ships_350.html and here's a plastic one from Revell in 1.144 for about $50 https://www.hobbyzone.com/hobbies/revell/rvls5123.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwmqHPBRBQEiwAOvbR8x0jOdyFtIcl9EKot4YdElHs9ZMUo0-1NkpYs2cdKd1F5nSZMgFMJxoC_1gQAvD_BwE and one from Lindberg for about $15 this appears to be close in appearance to the 452). http://www.activepowersports.com/lindberg-hl213-12-1-245-l-s-t-landing-ship-tank-hl213-12-plastic-military-model/?gclid=CjwKCAjwmqHPBRBQEiwAOvbR82PXZjNWtK1vYylZ38TiRKsr25m05V5WybzLEZukX4_hjxb1RMofQRoCzccQAvD_BwE here's a review https://modelingmadness.com/review/misc/ships/berghlst.htm
  7. Richard, welcome aboard. I hope you're enjoying a well-deserved retirement. I think it might be hard to ID your yacht, but if anyone can do it, the folks here can. Can you post a photo?
  8. It has been slow but steady work on the hull over the summer. Usually two or four planks per weekend, but I have finally completed the first layer of the lower hull. If anyone is ever building this kit, please take my advice and install balsa bow fillers between the frames. I'd thought about it, decided I didn't need them, and started regretting it almost immediately. This was my first galleon-type ship, and it is now my opinion that on these craft, bow fillers are a must. Sir Francis Drake, who has been watching my work said "I told you so." I have to say the wood was nice to work with. I need to do some stealers around the stern and then I will plank the deck and install the cabin facings before finishing the first layer of bow planking.
  9. MS kits come with good instructions, so it's probably not as necessary as it would be if you were building another manufacturer's kit, but I always recommend people new to the hobby grab a copy of Frank Mastini's "Ship Modeling Simplified." The MS instructions will teach good technique, but the Mastini book gives a good overview of ship building. Unfortunately, he does not deal with the cat issue.
  10. Welcome Derek. You'll find this is a great place to learn about ship building with a very supportive community always willing to help out. Good luck with the build. For your second build, I'd recommend something that is double planked - which is a lot more forgiving than a single-plank project.
  11. Completed the first layer of planking around the gunport frames and added some additional planks. Also picked up a crewmember, courtesy of my printer. He's a little thin, but that's what happens when you live on naval rations.
  12. Did some more planking, which went kind of smoothly. This is a double-planked kit, so there will be a good deal of sanding, maybe some filling to get things looking good. Found that my sprue cutter came in handy again. It made very precise plank cuts, so I was able to get the planking good and tight up against the gunport frames. Got it at the local craft store with a 40 percent off coupon and I have to say it is a very handy little tool.
  13. Welcome and good luck to you. I wouldn't worry about starting at 58 - that's about the time that life gives you enough time to really enjoy a hobby. I've only built POB kits, but I would second the recommendation of checking out the Confederacy plans - Model Expo has great customer service and Chuck is always around on these boards. Good luck and I hope you enjoy whatever project you choose.
  14. I've got to say that I don't like the white metal gunport frames. After dealing with them last night and thinking about it today, I think I would have preferred to fabricate my own from wood. I think that would have allowed me to some wiggle room to ensure the ports look good and the frames are oriented correctly in relation to the planking. I'm going to live with them on this build, but if I ever encounter them again, I am going to scratch build.
  15. Gave it a little thought over dinner and decided to add some framing pieces on either side of the gunport frame. I think this will make attaching the planks easier and more secure. It should also provide a little extra anchor for the frames. My apologies for the quality of the photos. Not sure if it is low light or I'm trying to take the photos too close.
  16. Started the planking today. The instructions call for the first planks to be on top of and beneath the gunport frames. I think that is going to mean that some of the planks in between will have to be narrowed, since I can't imagine this will be perfect. Oh well, we will see. Luckily, it's double planked and I can figure things out as I go along.
  17. I'm going to watch this with interest. I built a 1/400 plastic model from Mirage of this type torpedo boat. With the dedicated photoetch set it turned into a very nice, small model. I'm interested in card modeling, but have no idea how to do it. So teach on!
  18. Tonight's project was mounting the cannon on the gun deck. Because I'm worried about the barrels getting knocked loose during construction, I drilled holes into the pre-carved wooden carriages and inserted brass wire, which I then bent. A test or two showed the cannon tompions snap into place and are held there by the wire. I figure once I have the ship built, I will add a touch of glue to the tompions and then slide them in through the gunports and into place. Here's hoping it works. I measured the space between bulkheads and found and marked the center and then glued in the gun carriages with a healthy dollop of wood glue. Once everything dries I will glue on the gun port frames. I was worried that the gun carriages and brass rod would be visible from above once the model is complete, but a quick check showed I was wrong.
  19. Had taken a little break to work on another project - a 7'6'' bamboo fly rod. I found that much more tedious than ship building, but it's done. Now all I have to do is wait a few months for the varnish and epoxy to set (that's what the books I read recommend) and then I can try it out. Lucy, however, can't wait.
  20. When I was a kid I built Pyro's Henry Grace A Deiu and Santa Caterina carracks. I loved the odd, old-fashioned shape, even as I was puzzled by the Santa Caterina's battery of what appeared to be swivel guns. I'm just starting David Childs' "The Warship Mary Rose: The Life & Times of King Henry VIII’s Flagship" and would eventually like to build her. But I want a ship that looks like the carracks I built when I was young, not the Caldercraft version. I thought that a couple of years ago Billings announced it was putting out a Mary Rose kit based on Geoff Hunt's research (which looks a lot like the carracks I love), but I have never seen anything else on it. Does anyone know if they are moving forward with this project, shelved it, or if I was just dreaming? I know Maris Stella has a nice carrack kit, but a Mary Rose and a good Kearsage are two ships I'd really like to build.
  21. It is looking good, and someday you will appreciate all the time you put into her. Keep at it. You are doing great.
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