
Thunder
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Have moved on since last post but before I upload the next stages I wondered if you could give some help regarding the stirrups for the foot ropes on the main yard. I have probably every rigging book you can buy but they all skirt over this minor detail which is how the stirrup is attached to the yard. Does it fall centrally to the yard or, as I previously thought, fix to the front of the yard, go over the top and hang down over the back? This will put them in the best position for standing at the back of the yard facing forwards.
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Laying out plans in a smaller workshop
Thunder replied to alde's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
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Laying out plans in a smaller workshop
Thunder replied to alde's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Bob, Something like this: The one I saw years ago was like the tubes you get at the top of a white board so was more compact. -
it depends on whether you want to follow original practice and methods or just want a neat job. I do the side planks first as I like to fit waterways and margin planks and then work out from the centre too these.
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Laying out plans in a smaller workshop
Thunder replied to alde's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
As usual search in UK only and what do you get - toilet roll holders!! Unfortunately the UK is a country that loves to buy cheap rubbish because they think its a deal and then too stupid to moan when it arrives broken! But never mind the Chinese love us. Unfortunately the cheap rubbish is going up in price and the quality items are not available here. -
Laying out plans in a smaller workshop
Thunder replied to alde's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Many years ago I saw a blind that was for drawings. You could insert multiple drawings and lower each as required as if it was a blind. I have never seen one somewhere I could purchase. Mine are usually slid under the lounge rug! They had been there months before the wife spotted them and that was when she was watching me do the cleaning!! -
I always buy the large bottles of Loctite and my preferred is Loctite's Prism 406. I do similar to others here and dispense some onto a tile and apply with a cocktail stick. A sharp tap on the bottle to make sure none is left in the nozzle and replace the top. in between use I put in the fridge. It is very rare that I do not get to use the whole bottle as keeping in the fridge stops it going thick.
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Hi, is this a single planked hull? The quality of your planking certainly makes it appear so. Saying this is your second build, and this does not look like an easy kit, you have displayed a lot of skill so far. I love the lines of the hull and that planking is going to look great when sanded down.
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The Mast and bowsprit have now been stepped. The photograph below shows my method of making sure the mast is perfectly upright. I use a small pin vice as a plumb bob and a spirit level across the hull. Photo taken slightly from side so doesn't look like plump is in line with the mast. The booklet with the kit is very comprehensive with regards rigging and the sequence of completion so I thought I would not have to write my usual ' sequence for rigging the masts and yards'. However I hit a problem with the first item. Bowsprit bobstay rigging says to use black thread and then says to take from end of bowsprit, through a block, through fairleads and to pawl bits. My first query was 'tarred' rope through a block! My second was whether cutters had bobstays when they have the provision to bring the bowsprit in and out of the hull. Further investigation seems to indicate that he has somehow combined the bobstay with the Jib Outhauler. Jib outhauler would be in natural thread but rigs as he describes other than passing through a sheave at the end of the bowsprit and going to the jib traveller. Now I am really confused as what is correct for this vessel. 18th century rigs and rigging book does not really help, the Lennarth Petersson book seems to side with me. Casts doubts on the rest of the Bill Shoulder rigging supplied with the kit.
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This is what I am using: http://datalocation.co.uk/data/CTM4001.pdf
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Clean and precise, I don't think, These are all shaped by eye. Only very rudimentary marking out and measuring. Thank you for thinking it though.
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Hobbyzone building slip for wooden ship models
Thunder replied to aydingocer's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I added the side pieces shown below to mine. Just helps keep everything in line when sliding along between fixing bulkheads. -
You may have to have similar thoughts when you get near to the margin plank and bulwarks. would they stick to 'it has to be 20ft' or would they hold the odd longer length plank in reserve so that they don't end up fitting a little odd piece in the corner. This was not an issue with my Supply but the curves of Pickle made it an issue when completing her decking.
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You have to remember that, although it was important to have the planking look right, it had to be practical. Small lengths of plank would be very hard to fix securely so it would be unlikely to happen. With your third plank is it that it is narrower? If cutting your planking to scale length before starting make sure they are all the same width. Otherwise cut to length as you go along and make sure that for one strip of planks that they are all cut from the same piece. They make all look the same width but those tiny differences will show and make it very difficult to get the planking to run parallel to each other.
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There are two posts for swivel guns that I have secured the anchor too. You must of read my mind as for some reason I woke up this morning thinking I need to make two small guns to go on them.
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I thought the same as you. As this ship spent most of her service in the pursuit of smugglers you would think the ability to mount bow chasers would be highly desirable. In Speedy's case I don't think you could move them into position let alone have space to fire one. Carronades on slides would be more probable.
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Two more points to note with your model that effect the deck and that I encountered when I built her: I know that you are modelling her as built but just in case check your drawings. On mine the gun ports and cannon positions varied between the deck drawing and the hull profile drawing. The quarter deck is shown with a grating, ever since building I wish I had not put a grating there, it just seems so improbable to have a grating into the accommodation quarters.
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Hi, I prefer to keep symmetrical but remember that you have to maintain either the 3 or 4 shift butt system, which ever you chose. I also often see that people lay the king plank and those either side with short pieces and butts showing. This may be correct but I just think that the carpenters of the time would of allowed for the fact that there was gratings etc. In real practice the gratings would have been done first and then the decking. Therefore, unless there was a very long distance between gratings, you wouldn't see any butts between planks. This would mean, that in your case, the king plank and at least the first three either side could be laid in one length. What do others think?
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Yes, going to leave them empty, the records I have said she only had the eight guns. The bow gun ports would be unworkable so there couldn't of been any there anyway. The wood seemed to hold its edge very well and was tight grained. Lucky it was that good as she is single planked. I was happy to get away with not using filler. I have just purchased another very old kit, and it is a poor kit, but the wood, although not very 'pretty' is the most flexible I have ever come across.
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Lou, To be completely honest, although I used the kit timber for the planking the only other items used are the cannons, cannon balls, dead eyes and belaying pins. Otherwise everything else is scratch.
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last items of deck furniture fitted. The holes in the top of the belaying pin rack must be part of the turning process. These need filling and touching up with paint.
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Chain plates and lower dead eyes in place. The dead eyes and strops were supplied with the kit but, although everything was supposedly made for the kit, they were too long so had to be cut back. This took away all the secure fixing so I am concerned if they will hold when coming to rig the shrouds. One was missing, can you guess which one? If they look like they are not going to hold I will have to clean off the paint and solder the leg to the eyelet they are passing through. Should of done that before painting!!
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Anchors and anchor tackle / catheads in place. Anchors were missing from the kit so supplied from elsewhere. Stocks scratch built. Wasn't till after I took this photograph that I found that the starboard side had been damaged. I also need to do something about the 'clover leaf' hawse hole. I wore the bottom of the hole with the section of anchor rope but it doesn't look right.
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