Captain Poison

As I plan ahead for the future parts of the Winnie I thought I would start a discussion about different ways you can plank the Qdeck and Fcastle....
 
You can plank only half the deck like I did on my Confederacy model.   This gives you a different look and more access to view the gun deck details below.  It will also show the various knees on those deck beams.  See below.  And yes Model Expo broke this model as you can see.....the Anchor and timberheads are now broken on the Port side.  An easy fix that they should really do....


OR...You can plank like many of the contemporary models out there.  Here for example is how this is done with two running open areas down the Qdeck and Fcastle.   Since I already did the half open thing with Confederacy I may go this route with my Winnie.  Its more traditional.  Its entirely up to you and will help make the model more unique to your personal tastes.  Going with the version below will allow you to omit most of the knees all together because they wont be seen.  Also note how the fore and aft edges of the deck beams are painted red.  This is a typical way that they are shown on contemporary models.
 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 

To claybaker and garyshipwright - These milling cutters are manufactured by a number of manufacturers in the world, so it does not matter which manufacturer you choose. There are several of these manufacturers on aliexpress. I myself chose the "Chinese variant" because it is significantly cheaper and will do the same service as more expensive milling cutters.
Installation of quarterdeck deck beams.

Hello Everybody,
I finished the captains cabin rear gallery with the installation of the rudder trunk and the benches. For the small panels between the windows, I made small ebony decoration strips as framing.
First picture is the rudder trunk befor installation:

 
Here you can see the Captain Sir C. Passaro is giving order for the next work to do
 

 
The paneled front of the bench were glued against a curved template, to follow the curved edge of the flooring.
 
And the finished arrangements:
 

 

 

 

 
A little talk after everything is done.
 
Matthias

Post 52: Serving the Ropes
 
I am using Chuck’s serving machine and his rope (a historical item now)
 

 
To my eye many examples, which I see here and elsewhere are too heavy.   I like a lighter look.  My preference is to choose a different thread thickness depending on the original  size of the rope. 
 So, I use three different threads:
Veevus 16/0 fly tying thread            diameter -.            0.04 mm
Veevus 8/0 fly tying thread              diameter -.             0.06 mm
Gutterman  50 wt cotton thread    diameter              0.128 mm
Mara 120                                            diameter              0.15
 
 
It is pretty difficult to measure these small diameters but they can be calculated from the Denier measurement and there are also some literature measurements which agree fairly well with the calculation.  Of course, the main thing is what the result looks like when served on the rope and if it appear s correct to you but, for comparison, I have made some measurements on the final served lineI also made some measurement on the final thickness of the rope
 
The first thing I should say is that Chuck’s rope is pretty close in diameter to what he says it is.
 
0.88 mm rope served withwith16.0 fly tyiing thread             diameter           0.936
0.88 mm rope served with 50 wt Gutterman Cotton            diameter            1.11
1.12 mm  rope served with 16/0 fly tyiing thread                  diameter            1.26
1.12 mm rope served with 50 wt Gutterman Cotton            diameter            1.47
1.37 mm  rope served with 50 wt Gutterman Cotton            diameter            1.60
(with the lay)
1.37 mm  rope served with 50 wt Gutterman Cotton            diameter            1.71
            (against the lay)
I prefer the appearance of the final line when it is served with the lay (as recommended by Druxey incidentally). It gives a slightly  "bumpy” look as the thread partly fills the gap between the strands.  However, this is a personal preference and others may prefer the more regular look obtained by serving against the lay.  I generally find that this method produces a slightly lager diameter.
 
I hope these data are of interest
 
John
 

Vernon, with Albion in the background
 

 
View on Pique around Vernon's stern

Both ships are slightly updated, and I liked the view angles enough to post them.

After almost four weeks of suffering from "model fatigue" I finally got back to the Confederacy. Plus I had to take advantage of the "nice" (compared to the summer) weather to get some outside projects done. So several hundred square feet of pavers, two outdoor swing assemblies and a couple of cans of paint later I find that working on the model has much more appeal than it had a month ago.
 
When I left off I was almost done with the upper bulkwarkm planking on the out hull. So the first step is to get the last dozen or so pieces of bulwark planking installed.
 
I was unable to duplicate to instructions edict to use the 15th stake of planking as the top of the quarterdeck bulwark. I planked above that (two planks in some areas and the marked where the top of the gun ports should be (10mm up from the sill) and then faired a line through those marks for the top of the bulwarks. Clearly there is not a single row of planking that marks the top but...
 
I sanded both sides with 100 grit paper and wiped it down with paint thinner to see what it looked like and here it is:

 

 
The blue tape was to protect the stem while sanding the bow planking.
 
Next with the 220 grit and then a thin coat of Wipe-on-Poly to help define the plank rows while I struggle with the "Fancy" molding. I noted from Bossman's log that the lower row of molding has to be removed in the way of the channels so I think maybe I will wait and install that at the same time as the channels. I looked ahead in the instructions and do not see any "fatal flaw" in waiting. But then the fatal flaws you don't see are the ones you have to deal with...
 
I am "on the fence" on the treenails on the hull. If I do it at all I will only do the starboard side so If I don't like the "look" I can turn it around in the display case.
 
 
 

Hello, this afternoon my book arrived, 65 days late. It is worth every penny and day to wait for it. It is a beautiful frigate and in the 1/48 plans it looks huge.

Long gap in posting but I've been rather busy with other things, including developing a talk on steamboat design along the Missouri River, which you can watch online Tuesday March 9 (see link for details). This was supposed to be in April but the March speaker for this series canceled and I agreed to move it up a month. 
 
I also realized that I needed to make a final decision on how to handle the display stand, as I'm about to place the mast in the vessel and after that won't be able to turn it over nearly as easily. The kit-supplied stand doesn't fit the hull perfectly, as my version ended up somewhat deformed from the theoretical version the kit expects, but it's good enough and I don't feel like trying to make a new version that fits the clinker planking perfectly.
 
However, it's too simplistic and has very few contact points. So after some thought, I came up with the idea of adding a few extra pieces of wood to better clamp and stabilize the keel, and to do this in an artistic way. I cut some thin pieces of cherry off a larger block (harvested here on-farm) and cut them into half-pieces representing a Thor's hammer design. I then clamped these on either side of the kit stand such that they'd grab the keel. Here's a test-fit:
 

 
I then painted the stand black so it'd fade into shadow, and oiled the cherry to bring out its color. I think it looks cool:
 

 
I might also hang some shields along the stand between the two hammers, for more visual interest.
 
And here's another view of the current hull:

 
 

And here is the Swiss Pear that just arrived!

Hello and thanks you for likes!
 
The second supporter knee in place and middle rail in work
 

 

 

 
Regards
 
Alex

Not much new progress to report. I did get the stringers installed inside the bulwark. I soaked them in hot water then formed them around the edge of a small saucepan to get the bend near the bow in place. I still had a bit of difficulty getting them to stay tight into the corner between the deck and the bulwark and I really didn't have a good clamping solution, so I used some temporary pins to hold everything in place (filling the holes with glue and sawdust after they were removed).
 
Unfortunately, I am dealing with a bit of health issue right now, so I will not be posting for a bit (I have high confidence that I will be back later this spring though!).
 

 

 

I’m working at a snail’s pace on chapter 3, inching my way to completion.  I really like working with the friezes and I’m pretty happy with how my moldings are turning out.  I’ve also completed the q gallery roof railings.  And I took a page out of Bob’s build log and used Micro Kristal Klear for the windows.  I really like how they look and it seems like it reinforces the delicate frames.  Thanks for showing that, @rafine!
 

Thank you very much, friends.
 
I took some new photos. Here they are.
 
Jan

Hello,
 
 

To G. Delacroix - thanks for the info, I made the new one items with no wedges
To garyshipwright - I am using "10 Degree 0.1mm Tip Carbide CNC Bits Flat Bottom Milling Cutter V Shape" (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/852725456.html) for most of CNC 3D carvings. Question about tutorial - I am so sorry, making a video tutorial would be too time consuming and my knowledge of English is minimal.
I continue with the assembly of the capstans.
 

Fore capstan.

A short update

Okay- the rigging is complete. I'm waiting for a case to be made, so Ethalion's under a cardboard frame with a plastic dust cover over her at the moment - not her best look.
 
I shall take some better photos and post them when she re-emerges. I shall add (at least some of) the ship's boats around the model rather than on the skids as they hide so much of the deck beneath. But for now I'm going to call this one finished . Thanks so much to everyone for your encouragement, interest, wisdom, likes, ideas, etc...  Especially Barbossa, Ray, Beef Wellington... I've taken so much inspiration from your builds!
 
Here's just a few photos...
 

 

 

 

 
She's in much need of a nicer stand, but that will happen when the case arrives
 
Thanks again.
 
Rob
 
 

Searchlight, ladder soldered and some internal fitting out. All WIP.

Hello winnies masters,
 
how are your Winnies doing?..cant wait to show off the roof rail of my princess, she is being dressed to point she could go dancing soon dont be too harsh on me please hope you enjoy it. what a miniature, i firstly thought Chuck designed it himself as some kind of revenge to torture us   v.
 

 

The next thing for me to do is the panels and flooring of the captains cabin. I wanted to use my ivory for the panels and started with the starbord panel.
I made a base from a thin veneer and cut out door and gunport in the right position. Then I glued small strips of veneer onto it, for the placement of frames and panels. The ivory parts were cut and profiled on the saw and afterward sanded an glued on the base. Here you see the result.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
My material will be enough for the captains cabin, but not for the rooms infront of the cabin. I plan to make that with wooden panels like this one here:
 

 
One thing I still have to add, before gluing the starbord panel in position is the door to the Quartergalerie. I am thinking of a sliding door like this one:
 

 
After that, I will make the checkerbord flooring, using the material of the panels and some ebony. I started the preparation on this one:
 

 

 
Here you see the strips glued together and sandet roughly, next they will be cut apart and glued on a veneer-basebord as well and then sanded and polished.
 
Matthias

8 lb. guns

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hello everybody, I made the checker floor for the captains cabin.
 
I wanted it like on the pictures on the captains cabins:
 

First thing was to provide the stripes and cut them without breaking them.
 

 
Next step was to stick them upside down on a tape.
 

 
after that was done, a veneer template, wich had the size of the later flooring was glued to it upside down.
 
Afterwards the edges were cut and sanded in shape and the surface was polished.
 

 
Her you see the flooring on the model:
 

 

 
Matthias
 

I was just reading about this on Chuck's topic and he gives a good explanation about it on page 15.

I’ve just decided that sanding the outer hull is much more enjoyable than the inner. 
With that being said I’ve completed 80% of the port side with a rough sanding. The planks went down as Chuck prescribed, the only deviation I made aside from the month long lighting project was to glue the plank under the gunports down first to establish the correct run for the other three rows, the lowest 7/32 plank went in last which was a little bit harder to accomplish, the second layer will go down much easier. I Also got to poke around with the laser panels to see how much work I have ahead of me and it wasn’t too bad. Onto the stbd side this week hopefully.
JJ