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Everything posted by allanyed
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Amati Loom-a-line worth using? (edited by admin)
allanyed replied to bluenose2's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
P.T. Barnum had a valid point, even as far back as circa 1850.. Allan -
I totally agree, why pay for a modern reproduction when the contemporary information is available for free. I don't mind spending money when necessary, but in this case for the 1787 pattern of French cannon, it was available in good quality at no cost. Now, where can I find similar information on earlier versions of French (and Spanish) guns?🙂 We have drawings of seven patterns in their various calibers and lengths for English sea ordnance from 1625 to the early 19th century (over 90 drawings) and would like to have a complete accounting for Spanish and French patterns as well. Allan
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Your model, your choice. I believe that in reality the running rigging lines would be made of the same material, thus the same color when first rigged. Weather and time will change the colors so any new lines would probably look different color-wise than rigging that has been in place for some amount of time. Allan
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Welcome to the fray Charles You are among 43,000+ new friends Allan
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Looking at the contemporary drawings at RMG and those in the Blanford (20) book by Peter Goodwin, the galley stove was on the lower deck and the stack came up through the upper deck well aft of the forecastle and foremast. Other 20 gun ships like the Greyhound had the forward most gun aft of the forecastle which was established at 7' 7" fore and aft, and had no overhang. Regardless, as Hamilton suggested, if accuracy is not a priority for you, go with what makes you happy. It is after all, a hobby. Allan
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Warm welcome to MSW from the other side of our planet. You have 43,000+ new friends and a ton of build logs not mention the fantastic articles on rigging, proper planking, and much more in the Articles database here at MSW that will help enhance your models. Allan
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So far I found no deck plans for a 20 gun 1719 Establishment ship like your Greyhound (20) 1720, but there are deck drawings of 20 gun ships closer to your date versus the 1785 that you posted above in the RMG Collections website that may help you. One example: https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-83764 Brian Lavery also gives 11 pages of text and drawings regarding layouts in The Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War on pages 155-167. As this is a 1719 Establishment ship, I assume you are using the 1719 Establishment list of scantlings starting on page 241 in your Goodwin book as it gives you 18 pages of contemporary dimensions, including those for a 20 gun. Allan
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I strongly second this comment. They will not cut through even softened brass and they burn hard wood. The only good thing is the box and the vials in which I placed good quality bits. Look at the bits here for a wide variety, fast delivery and reasonable price for high quality bits. https://www.mcmaster.com/products/drill-bits/drill-bits-11/ Keep in mind the old adage, you get what you pay for. FYI, McMaster Carr has a distribution center in Robbinsville so not terribly far from you. I used to be able to order and personally pick up anything they had when we Iived in NJ. I don't know if that is still the case, but worth a call. Allan
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Hi Vane, If you have not already seen it and if you want to get rid of the shine on the copper plating, there is a recent thread here at MSW on how to do this easily and give a more realistic looking finish at no cost. https://modelshipworld.com/topic/34218-how-to-accelerate-very-quickly-the-aging-of-copper-hull-plates/#comment-973585 Allan
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Welcome to MSW. We have 43,000 members all over the world. It would help if you could give some information on who and where you are and some details on the model such as how many years old is the kit, what scale, etc. for those that might be interested in building this for you. Good luck Allan
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Welcome to MSW. Very lovely work on your model! Allan
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I agree with you it looks like Betts mistakenly used the plans for Erebus rather than Terror in his book. Note that not only are the round openings like those on the contemporary drawing of Erebus, the hatches match those of Erebus rather than the Terror. Certainly not the end of the world, but interesting none-the-less. Allan
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The openings in the upper deck are intriguing. It looks a lot like the Erebus but maybe the kit plans combined the two ships into one as they were both bomb vessels converted to Arctic service. Regardless, your planking looks very well done. Thanks for sharing your build. Allan Erebus signed by Francis J. Laire, Master Shipwright, Chatham Dockyard. Drawing of Terror signed by shipwright William Stone in Chatham in 1837
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Hi Tiziano, Did you cast the cannon barrels using metal? They look very real. Thanks Allan
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This looks like a winner. but the problem is the cost as it will not be inexpensive. I did some more digging and found the following website that gives a lot of good information on Spanish ordnance. https://www.artillerianaval.es/artilleria-de-ordenanza/ Waldemar, I did find the website for the archives in Madrid but cannot find a search function and am at a loss. Do you have a link? Thank you! Allan
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EXREMELY beautiful model! Like your carvings, the scratch built pinnace is something everyone should see and aspire to. PLEASE do NOT take this as a criticism, but rather as a question only. Is there a reason you used Blomefield pattern guns instead of Armstrong pattern? Your title is 1765-1778 so the use of the Blomefield guns is confusing to me as they did not come into use until 1787 (Caruana, The History of English Sea Ordnance, Vol. II, page 257) THANK YOU for sharing your build! Allan
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Mr. MIllar Can you post the pics and explanations in the kit instructions? Thanks Allan
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Hi Nearshire, Out of curiosity, what is the width of the planks in your kit? The reason I ask is that the first layer of strakes (which really does not matter) looks wide in the photos. Hopefully that is not the case on the second layer. From Goodwin's The Construction and Fitting of English Men of War, page 50, the bottom planking was from 10" to 12" wide at the dead flat. This would be 0.10" - 0.12" (2.54mm to 3mm) at your scale. This will make it easier to prebend the tapered planks with heat (ala the method in the Passaro videos) compared with if they are too wide. Allan
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