allanyed
-
Posts
8,149 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by allanyed
-
If you are still undecided, do you have any kind of CAD program, including Paint which a free app with Windows? You can make the frieze work then save and print on paper. You can make it in a large scale so it is not hard on the eyes while making it, then reduce and print so the size is appropriate to your scale. Considering the age of sail, if you are going to show her as she actually looked in 1796, it would then be appropriate to remove the name on the stern as the Admiralty did not allow the names on the RN ships before 1780 or after 1790. Allan- 38 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- Agamemnon
- Ardent-class
- (and 1 more)
-
Your cutter looks super and it such a great thing to see the research you put into it before starting to build it. Allan
- 302 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- Diana
- Caldercraft
- (and 1 more)
-
Your planking is exemplary. It is a pleasure to see planking done as was done in actual practice rather than the fantasy planking seen so often. Regarding the wales, they were commonly black, so yours being darker is probably a good thing. Allan
-
Hi Bob Yes, but in what country do you reside? There are good suppliers in a number of countries. Which Endurance? There have been at least 3 including Endurance 1912. You can make a mold in silicone rubber of one or more of the 13 that you have, then make them out of casting resin. Cheers Allan
-
Ey Looks like that is your first post, so welcome to MSW!! Allan
-
Post 3 above is probably the best advice I can think of. Add to that, the type of line you use. At your scale, you will probably be limited to very few circumferences but that may be a plus in the end. Regardless, if you can find the sizes you need in rope rather than thread go for it. For English ships regarding the cannon, contemporary models sometimes left off all the cannon and when they did have them they were rarely fully rigged (just the breech is often seen). I know most of us like to show the cannon, me included, so if you are making them fully rigged keep in mind for less than 32 pounders they used two single blocks, not a single and a double, which seems to be prevalent in modern day models. This includes both the running out tackles and the train tackle. Allan
- 19 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- running rigging
- standing rigging
- (and 1 more)
-
Amati Loom-a-line worth using? (edited by admin)
allanyed replied to bluenose2's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
P.T. Barnum had a valid point, even as far back as circa 1850.. Allan -
I totally agree, why pay for a modern reproduction when the contemporary information is available for free. I don't mind spending money when necessary, but in this case for the 1787 pattern of French cannon, it was available in good quality at no cost. Now, where can I find similar information on earlier versions of French (and Spanish) guns?🙂 We have drawings of seven patterns in their various calibers and lengths for English sea ordnance from 1625 to the early 19th century (over 90 drawings) and would like to have a complete accounting for Spanish and French patterns as well. Allan
-
Your model, your choice. I believe that in reality the running rigging lines would be made of the same material, thus the same color when first rigged. Weather and time will change the colors so any new lines would probably look different color-wise than rigging that has been in place for some amount of time. Allan
-
Welcome to the fray Charles You are among 43,000+ new friends Allan
-
Looking at the contemporary drawings at RMG and those in the Blanford (20) book by Peter Goodwin, the galley stove was on the lower deck and the stack came up through the upper deck well aft of the forecastle and foremast. Other 20 gun ships like the Greyhound had the forward most gun aft of the forecastle which was established at 7' 7" fore and aft, and had no overhang. Regardless, as Hamilton suggested, if accuracy is not a priority for you, go with what makes you happy. It is after all, a hobby. Allan
-
I guess it is time to get the Admiral involved as she is a retired French teacher. HOPEFULLY the naval terminology will not throw too many clinkers into the fire. Allan
-
Warm welcome to MSW from the other side of our planet. You have 43,000+ new friends and a ton of build logs not mention the fantastic articles on rigging, proper planking, and much more in the Articles database here at MSW that will help enhance your models. Allan
-
No problem Lieste, thank you kindly for your help. For our scales, I believe I can use the ratio of the shot diameter of the 4 pound to the 6 pound and reduce the bore and barrel diameter the same 12% (approximate) and keep the same lengths as the 6 pounder without notice. Allan
-
So far I found no deck plans for a 20 gun 1719 Establishment ship like your Greyhound (20) 1720, but there are deck drawings of 20 gun ships closer to your date versus the 1785 that you posted above in the RMG Collections website that may help you. One example: https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-83764 Brian Lavery also gives 11 pages of text and drawings regarding layouts in The Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War on pages 155-167. As this is a 1719 Establishment ship, I assume you are using the 1719 Establishment list of scantlings starting on page 241 in your Goodwin book as it gives you 18 pages of contemporary dimensions, including those for a 20 gun. Allan
-
I strongly second this comment. They will not cut through even softened brass and they burn hard wood. The only good thing is the box and the vials in which I placed good quality bits. Look at the bits here for a wide variety, fast delivery and reasonable price for high quality bits. https://www.mcmaster.com/products/drill-bits/drill-bits-11/ Keep in mind the old adage, you get what you pay for. FYI, McMaster Carr has a distribution center in Robbinsville so not terribly far from you. I used to be able to order and personally pick up anything they had when we Iived in NJ. I don't know if that is still the case, but worth a call. Allan
-
Hi Vane, If you have not already seen it and if you want to get rid of the shine on the copper plating, there is a recent thread here at MSW on how to do this easily and give a more realistic looking finish at no cost. https://modelshipworld.com/topic/34218-how-to-accelerate-very-quickly-the-aging-of-copper-hull-plates/#comment-973585 Allan
-
Welcome to MSW. We have 43,000 members all over the world. It would help if you could give some information on who and where you are and some details on the model such as how many years old is the kit, what scale, etc. for those that might be interested in building this for you. Good luck Allan
-
Lieste THANK YOU. Allan
-
Welcome to MSW. Very lovely work on your model! Allan
-
I agree with you it looks like Betts mistakenly used the plans for Erebus rather than Terror in his book. Note that not only are the round openings like those on the contemporary drawing of Erebus, the hatches match those of Erebus rather than the Terror. Certainly not the end of the world, but interesting none-the-less. Allan
-
Eberhard, I am PMing you regarding the rest of the project. Merci bien Allan
-
The openings in the upper deck are intriguing. It looks a lot like the Erebus but maybe the kit plans combined the two ships into one as they were both bomb vessels converted to Arctic service. Regardless, your planking looks very well done. Thanks for sharing your build. Allan Erebus signed by Francis J. Laire, Master Shipwright, Chatham Dockyard. Drawing of Terror signed by shipwright William Stone in Chatham in 1837
-
Thanks again Lieste and Waldemar, your thoughtfulness in your replies is very much appreciated. Allan
-
Hi Tiziano, Did you cast the cannon barrels using metal? They look very real. Thanks Allan
Our Emblem ®
