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allanyed

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Everything posted by allanyed

  1. Welcome to MSW Charlie!! Great having you aboard. Allan
  2. Hi Srenner If you find that this kit does not suit you there are high quality kits from which to choose. If you think 20 guns are boring, what happens when you get to a first rate?😀 Consider studying some of the thousands of photos of contemporary models at the RMG collections site and you will see they do not always include the cannon, and when they do, they are often rigged with only the breach line or nothing at all. One of many examples of a sixth rate can be found at: https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-66518 Good luck with your endeavors, it should be fun and rewarding. Allan
  3. That link takes me to my Yahoo account. Hope there is a good link as this sound interesting!!
  4. Your comment brought up an interesting point. What was the smallest ship in the RN considered a ship of the line. I thought a ship of the line was a fourth rate or larger but could be dead wrong on this. Not the most important piece of info in the world, just curious. Thanks Allan
  5. Thank you for presenting this. It is good to see plates with nail detents instead of raised rivet-like bumps. Will you be making this tool for other scales? As the plates were typically 48" X 15", this appears to be made for models at about 1:72 scale. Thanks
  6. I THINK he is referring to the fact that the topgallant yard on a model is not heavy enough to stay down and in position easily where as on a ship, it is. Allan
  7. 1:16, now that will be awesome. I would love to go that route, but I was thinking the 1:48 or even 1:64 would be useful to some folks needing a boat for their ship. 1:16.....hmmmmm, sounds like a fun project with the details you will be able to achieve. Now I am having second thoughts, but for a pinnace or longboat. FUN TIMES!!😀
  8. Contemporary drawings show three holes for which the forestay is rigged. When a second mast is present, how would the stay be rigged? Sketch below explains better than words, I hope. Allan
  9. Your thoughtfullness to post the drawings is encouraging me (and hopefully others) to do the same. In my case, I am working on the 23 foot launch again. Two methods have been tried, the second keeping in mind folks with only a modicum of tools that can still do a scratch build in any scale. Drawings are done, and the second build method is about half way home. Allan
  10. This continues to be a fun journey BE!!! Oars are some of the trickiest things to make, at least in my own experience. Laser cut means only shaping so a big plus versus making from scratch. I mostly use David Steel's scantlings for barge oars as well as for other ships' boats and wonder how they compare with what comes with the kit. Allan
  11. Welcome to MSW Botra You have 43,000 new friends and helpers here to share their thoughts on everything from what tools to buy or avoid, kits to buy or avoid, recommended books and more Your comment on reading everything you can here will help you alot. Allan
  12. I agree, more illustrations would be helpful, but what is there is beyond any other book as there are drawings showing the differences for each era. Unfortunately no book I have found has an abundance of belaying information. I wonder if this is due to the fact that each ship seemed to have some differences based on what the sailing master and/or captain and others preferred. Studying appropriate a contemporary model is very helpful as Petersson did, but having access to them is not usually possible for the majority of us. Maybe some member with access to a slew of contemproary models of different periods can put together a book, The Ultimate Book on Belaying Points! Allan
  13. The list Gregoy gives is super. Keep in mind Rigging Period Ship Models is based on one contemporary model so somewhat limited. It is applicable to other ships, but.... Lees book is excellent and is applicable to over 200 years of rigging. It is highly detailed and worth the investment. If you are interested in modeling a ship built from 1600 to 1720, Anderson's book The Rigging of Ships in the Days of the Spritsail Topmast is a great addition to your library as well. No matter kit or scratch, a good reference book on rigging is very important. Allan
  14. This is a fantastic post with the response from Phil Watson that you have shared with us. VERY COOL. Allan
  15. Thanks Gregory! I missed her when down loading the high res drawings from the Wiki Commons list into folders. These folders are set up by number of guns and misc. folders such as bomb vessels, boats, etc. I would love to share but there are over 40GB. MSW expressed an interest to set up a file for all members to access but other priorities over the past year or so have prevented this being done. If there is an easy way to do this for free, I would love to know so these can be shared. I have added contracts to the folders where appropriate and low res plans if a set was incomplete for a given vessel. Allan
  16. Out of curiousity, which Rattlesnake is your model? There were several in the RN and two in the USN. (1780 and 1813) Thanks Allan
  17. Those are counter timbers. Fashion piece is the aft most frame to which some of the transoms fay. I don't know the shape for Rattlesnake, but they look like the below on most ships. I think the buldges down low are less pronounced on Rattlesnake based on the dashed lines on the drawing you posted. Allan
  18. J As you are more or less in the beginning stages, seriously consider the three vessel series designed by David Antscherl available from Model Shipways. They will teach a lot skills that will be used in your scratch build adventures. https://modelexpo-online.com/Model-Shipways-Shipwright-3-Kit-Combo-Series_p_5465.html Allan
  19. Hi Yves. I am curious to learn how you arrived at this figure. I tried some calculations using scantlings from both Steel and the Shipbuilder's Repository, for a 74, Both put the sided dimension of the stem at the head at 24". Assuming the knee of the head is about the same or slightly smaller where it fays to the stem and then tapers as it moves forward to about half the thickness as was normal practice, it would be about 12". At 1:48 --- 12/48 X25.4 = 6.34mm I cannot find any other way of calculating this but would love to know of any. Thanks in advance for your help on this. Allan
  20. Hi Grant Blocks and their construction varied a lot so there is no set answer to your question without more information including, but not necessarily limited to, the nationality, ship, and year of the model you are building. Allan
  21. That sounds like a great idea to try. I have used Permatex marker pens with success as well as I can cut the applicator tip to 2" scale width but can see how this can also be done with a soft coloring pencil. A bit a difficulty in this part of this step is finding a pencil or pen that is a color that is appropriate for the sail color. Either way, it looks so much better than out of scale cloth sails and stitching lines. Allan
  22. Great question Yorky Chapelle's American Schooners gives some details on the halyards but for the clew line, the sketches are as clear as yours. It does mention on one sketch that the block for the clew is a single and made fast to the head of the sail. No mention of how it is made fast is given. Allan
  23. I thought this would be an interesting material to try....... then I saw the price for one piece 2"X6"X 12" is $161. Ouch. Allan
  24. Welcome to MSW Wonko!!! Please post an intro with a little about yourself in the new member forum here at MSW. Your machining work and carriage assembly is extremely neat and your designs for each are interesting. Allan
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