allanyed
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As you make progress on your model have you been able to check against the contemporary plans held at RMG? MS has a great reputation for their kits, but it is always nice to have the original plans against which to check and I am curious to see if there are any significant differences. The RN renamed here Cormorant after they captured her but renamed her Rattlesnake later. The drawings are labeled Cormorant but are the Rattlesnake built in 1780 in Massachusetts. www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-84323 Note there are two drawings, the deck plans and the inboard profile and body plan. Allan -
This has been mentioned in other posts so I hope you don't mind it being brought up here as it maybe something to consider for the future. The Fully Framed Model Volume I, page 142 goes into detail on the taper of the knee of the head as the Swan class ships tapered 60% in width, so pretty noticeable, rather than the knee being grooved to accommodate the figure head legs. This tapering practice was common on most, if not all, British ships of war, but maybe ships built in New England did not follow this tapering practice. Allan
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Hi Dave Look at some of the various rigged models at Preble Hall, RMG, Lees' Mastng and Rigging and Franklin's Navy Board Ship Models and you will seem the majority have no sails, but are nearly fully rigged with leech lines, tacks, sheets and more. Lees' Masting and Rigging page 76 has very detailed drawings of how to rig the tack, sheet and clue garnet blocks together when no sails were rigged. Allan
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A very warm welcome and a huge thank you for your service. Allan
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Thank you for asking! We are 24 miles to the beach so were lucky. We lost cable for a little over a day and phones were wonky but we never lost power or water. Friends west of us were hit very hard. Some are back to normal, others are months/year away from some form of normalcy with the need for gutting interiors and replacing floors, walls, utilities and furniture. Because they state that the product is non-toxic does not mean that other products are toxic. I think the comments on lead above are what they were addressing as we all know lead is to be avoided if at all possible. I suppose each product you consider using should be investigated as much as possible. Allan
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I have used copper and brass with good results. Both have advantages and disadvantages. Brass rod stays stray except where you bend it. Copper is softer so more difficult for the straight portions. Blackening copper with diluted liver of sulfur is very easy and as mentioned can be done once the piece is in place. Brass needs to be done off the model as brass blackening agents will stain the wood. Try some test pieces then choose which YOU like best for the links. Allan
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Bill, My favorite is called "Solder It" Silver bearing soldering paste. It works with my soldering iron and it has worked very well for me. I try to stay with copper wherever possible as it blackens so easily with liver of sulfur in situ which is a big plus for many of us. Brass also works OK although I prefer higher temp solder for brass. Also, since Blacken It has gone off the market, I have gone Birchwood Casey for blackening brass and this must be done before installing the piece. Allan
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Hi Bill, If you are going to have the ends of a brass or copper link butt, with or without a diagonal edge, low temp silver solder paste works nicely and will hold well compared to soft solder. If the links are very small diameter material, I have found that high temp silver solder and an appropriate torch may be difficult to work without melting the link itself. As you mention, practice, practice, practice. It usually works wonders, my golf game being a big exception.😀 Allan
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Bdb You may be right, but a binding strake is just that, a strake. Goodwin describes it as follows: Running the full length of the deck either side of the numerous fittings on the centreline was a strake of planking known as the binding strake. From The Construction and Fitting, page 59. Then again the US ships may have been different with ten stakes instead of two or there is a chance the kit is not correct. Hopefully some member will have contemporary based information regarding US Navy ship deck planking. Allan
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THANK YOU for posting these photos Dafi. The details that can be seen are terrific, including the cleats which we rarely see on model carriages. These show up on paintings of Victory but not sure they are even on the replica carriages today. I am not sure when they came into use, as the earliest I can find is 1795, in Caruana's English Sea Ordnance volume I page 382. These drawings also show the breast at the front of the carriage. Allan
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My main two boards do have a frame work of 1X2 around the periphery plus two in the center running in the short direction. No warpage and they are both over 10 years old. One has 3/4" plywood for the top and the other pressed composite "wood" One has two grooves running length wise in which metal channels are screwed to allow use of an overhead bridge that I learned to make from member and author Ed Tosti. Allan
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Fitting of combined lift and sheet blocks to the yard.
allanyed replied to DaveBaxt's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Sorry, I was not sure exactly what you were looking for Dave. What I was referring to is on pages 68-69 in Lees. He gives both drawings and text descriptions. He does not give a "how to" though, which would really be nice to see. Allan -
Fitting of combined lift and sheet blocks to the yard.
allanyed replied to DaveBaxt's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Is this for Endeavour 1768? The reason I ask is that there were four variations over the years 1650 to 1806. Same goes for the lift blocks on the caps. There are a ton of details in Lees and probably a number of other places for each era. There is more than what I think a reasonable amount in Lees book that I can copy here. Allan -
That is very cool to be related. There is a good history on the designer of the carronade and how it was then given to the Carron Company to actually be made. Carron did not design the gun but, but there is still some argument as to which of the individuals that claimed credit for the design actually did. Most seem to favor General Robert Melville of the British Infantry. He conceived the idea of the weapon in 1753 when stationed in Cork but did not propose the weapon to Carron until 1774. Some believe the design came from Charles Gascoigne, a partner with Carron who tried without success to patent the design in his name as reported in 1779 in the Scots Magazine and Patrick Miller, an Edinburgh merchant whose claim many believe was self-generated. There is a good bit more of detail on the history in Adrian Caruana's The History of English Sea Ordnance, Volume II, 161-164. Allan
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Welcome to MSW Lester. Looking forward to seeing your pictures. Allan
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Your build is excellent and even more impressive as a first scratch build. I may have missed it on your earlier posts, but what power tools do you have in your shop? The need for tools is often an argument some folks have for avoiding a try at scratch building. I understand if there is a lack of space and tool costs, but I am convinced that once most folks finish a scratch build, albeit starting with a reasonable first choice vessel, (read- NOT a ship of the line), they will continue to do so, if for no other reason, they are no longer limited in the selection of vessels from which to choose. Allan
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Harlequin We all tend to be our own worst critics. But, as we tend to stick with it, we do get better. Most of us will not reach those lofty heights of the masters of old and of today, but as long as it is an enjoyable endeavor, nothing wrong with us continuing to up our skills. You should be proud of your efforts on your Bellona, I would be. Allan
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I have no idea how Corel suggests the outer layer strakes planking is to be laid, but some kit makers have planking that is done as was done in reality, others that don't. If this is something you are interested in, and if you have not already done so, you would probably appreciate the planking tutorial by noted author (and MSW member) David Antscherl in the articles data base here at MSW and the YouTube video on planking by MSW moderator Chuck Passaro of Syren Ship Model Company. Allan
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Very neat work Nearshore, Am I correct that this kit has a double planked hull? The reason I ask is that I am wondering how you are going to get the nails out without damaging the planking if it is single planked. Thanks Allan
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Correct Glue
allanyed replied to Blacklab's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I think there are a lot of members that fit this category. Blacktab, The main thing is to be sure there is no glue visible to begin with. Wipe up any excess that may squeeze out with a sliver of scrap wood and a wet paper towel and if you use CA anywhere, use acetone in lieu of water. This will minimize scraping and sanding dried glue which, if not removed, will show big time when the wood is stained or coated with a varnish, oil, or poly finish, etc. Allan -
What a great photo in your post!!! Welcome aboard Allan
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Lofting article
allanyed replied to Treebeard's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Hi Guy I am not sure if this will help but take a look in the Articles data base here at MSW in the Plans and Research section and see Wayne Kempson's treatise. While it's set up for CAD, it may still be useful for hand drafting in many respects. Allan -
J Class Yacht Rigging Question
allanyed replied to David Lester's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Phil I have no love for working with any kind of wire, but that has been my experience so maybe time for another try using the wire you mention. Are you using crimps or some other securing method and do you find it difficult to keep things tight? Pictures???? Thank you very much. Allan -
Gluing the axle ends is an interesting variation. Whatever works !!! 😀 Allan
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Well done! With your skill set, you would do well with scratch building, making the world your oyster when it comes to selecting a model that has not been done thousands of times before. Allan
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