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Everything posted by allanyed
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Daniel, Kudos for replacing the sails. Lees is a great book and mine is worn thin from use over the years. There is a great booklet on making sails to scale by David Antscherl for $5 at SeaWatch books (https://seawatchbooks.com/products/swan-iv-sail-making-supplement-from-the-revised-and-expanded-edition-by-david-antscherl) as well as a you tube video by Tom Lauria that uses similar methods and compliment one another's methods. www.youtube.com/watch?v=g_m_VWzk4w8 Both are worth studying. Allan
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She continues to be a beautiful build Tiziano. We look forward to meeting you in person later this month!! Ciao Allan
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Your reasoning makes a lot of sense Roger. There is indeed very little outside of the Lavery and May books. At least there are reasonably close scantlings and details that would help anyone building a ship's boat for the ship model with hand tools. There are also a lot of contemporary drawings that show the diversity even within a given time period. Allan
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The only reference to when a boat was double banked versus single banked that I have been able to find so far is on page 219 in Lavery's The Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War where he writes that "in 1783 it was ordered that all launches should be equipped to row double banked." Looking at the boat scantlings for launches circa 1800 in May's The Boats of Men of War, the smallest launch that he shows has a length of 24 feet and a breadth of 7 feet 10 inches. OK, that seems like a lot of room to be double banked. My quandry is whether there was a minimum breadth required for any type of boat to be double banked. Lacking other information one could make the argument that any boat that had a breadth of 7' 10" or more would/could be double banked, but that kind of assumption is probably a bad idea. Was there a rule that stated a minimum breadth for any boat that would be double banked or single banked? Mays has a photo of a contemporary model of a 37 foot barge that has a breadth of 7 feet that is single banked. On the same page he shows a contemporary plan of a 32 foot barge (no breadth given) that is double banked, adding to my confusion. I would appreciate any information. Thanks Allan
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MONTAÑES by Amalio
allanyed replied to Amalio's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
To say your build is spectacular is an understatement. Your selection of wood species is great as they compliment each other very well. Allan -
Nicely done! The contrasting colors are quite striking and look really good. Allan
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M/ Haricot Why in two pieces?? Hopefully someone has a reason based on contemporary information but it is not at all unusual. Look at a few of the thousands of drawings and contemporary models on the RMG Collections site and you will see that this is more often than not the case. There are of course variations over time and types and sizes of vessel. One of many exceptions to the split channels includes Boston 1762 as seen below. One of the split channel versions can be seen on Cerebus 1793 in the second drawing below. Allan
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Looking for advice on making billowed sails
allanyed replied to Biggsy's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Welcome to MSW Biggsy Please do post an intro about yourself on the new member forum. Do you have photos you can post? If this is the OcCre model, you might want to consider some alternatives. Leave off their sails as the cloth they use is usually way out of scale and sails tend to block the view of all the work you put into putting up the standing and running rigging. Second is to make your own sails with non-woven material such as silk span. There are many detailed discussions here at MSW on using this type of material as well as a very nice $5 booklet from SeaWatch Books on sail making by David Antscherl and You Tube videos using similar methods and materials. If you must use cloth there are some very high thread count cotton materials that will look pretty good compared to the typical sail materials used by some kit makers. Allan -
Techtonic If you would rather go with cloth such as Egyptian cotton instead of non-woven material such as silk span, look for very high thread count sheets or pillow cases. They come in a variety of colors which is a plus so you may not have to dye anything. The tighter the weave the more expensive, but this could be the answer for you. There is a bit of controversy over thread count definitions, but the best thing is to go look at it at a store to actually see how fine the weaves are side by side. Before switching to silk span a few years ago, when I would shop for cloth I would take a magnifier to compare different cloths. Keep in mind that machine sewing cloth at the scales we normally see in this hobby is going to be out of scale. Pencil lines for the cloths' seams and hand stitching for the bolt rope are alternatives that can work well. Allan
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- bellerophon
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I am sorry if I missed an earlier post, but I would like to know a bit more about your carving as it is so beautiful. Are you marking your pieces, with ink, marker pen, or something else? Are you carving the bone with burrs or chisels or something else? Last, what type of adhesive do you use for the bone on wood? Thanks Michele, your log is a pleasure for all of us to follow. Allan
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Soaking and bending works,,,,,, to a point, but it does have limits depending on the thickness, radius, and species. For the forward third or so you can make a template then mark out the shape on sheet stock of the appropriate thickness and cut out that portion with the tightest radius. The joint with the remainder of the rail can then be a scarph. Allan
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Thanks Doug, No matter kit or scratch, each project seems to be a never-ending learning experience for most of us so we can do a better job in the future. Allan
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Hi Doug, My apologies to you if my question offended you in any way. It was never meant as a criticism of you and your excellent workmanship. Allan
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You are right about that Chris, it seems that with the exception of Syren, most, if not all, kits have it wrong. But, some might call this an opportunity for some kit maker to stand above the rest even if it is only mentioned in a few sentences with a simple sketch in the instructions. Allan
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Doug, The below sketch will explain more easily. Why kit makers ignore this basic design feature is a good question to ask them. Not sure on the dimensions on your vessel, but if it is 12" at the stem for example, it would be close to 6 inches at the forward end where the figure head rests. I have no doubt you are correct, but what is better, ignoring it or fixing it? I may be wrong, but Vanguard strikes me as a company that is very interested in hearing about possible mistakes and/or omissions and fixing them. Allan
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You speak the truth!👍 Is the moulded dimension on the upper area of the frames correct? They look heavy in the photos, thus my question. As good as the AoTS series is, it is still a good idea to check everything against contemporary based sources, even if only scantlings. For Royal Caroline 1750, the Establishments may be the best and most detailed source and would have the tops at about 2" to 3" in and out. The Shipbuilder's Repository 1788 and Steel's The Elements and Practice of Naval Architecture1805 would have them closer to 4" or 5" in and out. Thanks for sharing your build with us. Allan
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Hi Doug, Your work is a pleasure to see and the photography is well done!! Couple questions about your build, hope you don't mind. Is there a reason the knee of the head is not tapered? I thought this was a standard design feature on British ships, but may be wrong. Is the rigging line on the cannon from the kit? Thanks for sharing your very fine build. Allan
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Welcome to MSW Demostenes. Please consider doing the polite thing of introducing yourself in the new member forum. For folks with both, how does this book compare with Longridge's Anatomy of Nelson's Ships which I always thought was the epitome for someone wanting to build an accurate model of the Victory? Allan
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Swivel guns
allanyed replied to tlevine's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
Spot on if you are referring to Swallow. Enlarging the Swallow 1779 drawing, the swivel gun posts all measured between 51" and 54" above the top of the beams at the bulwark. This would be similar to your figure, that is between 48" and 51" above the top of the deck planks if the planking is 3" thick (Steel and the Shipbuilder's Repository scantlings for similar size vessels. ) Allan -
Nothing specific, I am just in the throes of studying Mediator's details (as well as similar vessels in her time) as closely as possible in order to prepare a quote for a variation of her for a client. Thanks Bruce Allan
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Hi Bruce, I have been looking at the Staudt plans and have a question that maybe you can answer. There appear to be rows of cannon ball racks, but I cannot find any contemporary information that would confirm this. Have you found any details about these? Thanks! Allan
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