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Everything posted by allanyed
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Hi Dan, While Pequod was fictional, it was supposedly a Nantucket whaler. Have you contacted the Nantucket Historical Association? https://nha.org/research/nantucket-history/history-topic/whaling/ Maybe try the New Bedford Whaling Museum or Mystic Seaport for some ideas as well. It sounds like you are willing to make changes to a kit to make things right, but hopefully you can find one that is a better choice to start. Per your earlier post, this is your first wooden model so seriously consider putting this project on the back burner for a little while and start with a less complex high qual kit or series like the three vessel set from Model Shipways. Assembling parts in a kit is one thing, but as you will be modifying it, the learner series will teach you good techniques and save you a lot of frustration down the road. This sounds like it could be a really fun project. Allan
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Forum(s) for multiple questions
allanyed replied to Dan DSilva's topic in How to use the MSW forum - **NO MODELING CONTENT**
Hi Dan, As you are a beginner be very careful in your choice. Many folks take on a kit with a big name like HMS Bounty or HMS Victory, resulting in probably ten unfinished models for every finished one. It certainly can be done, but the odds are against you. If you start with a few simpler HIGH quality kits you will learn great woodworking techniques that will stay with you as you advance. While wood kits have now gone to laser cut parts in many instances, it is not like assembling a plastic kit. There is sanding and other finishing techniques, but none are overwhelming and the results you can see in the many build logs. Everyone has their druthers on where to start, but I do not recall seeing even one negative comment on starting with the three vessels series from Model Shipways that was designed by author and professional ship modeler David Antscherl. There are a number of build logs here for these vessels so they can be a great aid to you as well. https://modelexpo-online.com/Model-Shipways-Shipwright-3-Kit-Combo-Series_p_5465.html Good luck!! Allan -
Forum(s) for multiple questions
allanyed replied to Dan DSilva's topic in How to use the MSW forum - **NO MODELING CONTENT**
Welcome to MSW Cathead posed pertinent questions. If you would provide more information you will get lots of good advice. How much experience do you have? This is important as there are great kits for beginners as well as a some good ones for experienced builders. There are also a lot of choices that many would avoid due to poor instructions, inaccurate parts, and poor materials. Read the forum here at MSW on banned kits as build logs based on stolen property are not permitted here. Unfortunately there are many starting with ZHL. Allan -
Maybe I had a bad batch Mark, but these were the worst bits I have ever had. I wound up replacing them with good jobber bits but kept the box with holding tubes for each size as it was actually the best part of the set. The originals went in the garbage as they would not drill through even softened brass. Caveat emptor! Allan
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I could not agree more BE. Thanks for continuing to share your build!! Allan
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Sorry Hamilton, but it does not open for me. Can you just attach using the drag or choose file attachment function? If you don't already have the following, thought you might see how it compares to the kit. Up until her refit her compliment of guns on the lower decks were presumably the same as what Caruana calls "normal" 74s which had twenty-eight 32 pounders of 9 1/2 feet on the lower deck, twenty-eight 18 pounders of 9 feet on the upper deck, and four 9 pounders of 8 1/2 feet and fourteen of 7 1/2 feet in the upper works. He goes on to mention that Bellona and Fortitude then received six 12 pounder carronades in 1781 but does not mention which of the long guns, were replaced. All the long guns were likely Armstrong pattern of 1760 as the Blomefield pattern did not come into use until about 1787. There are drawings and dimensional information the Armstrong pattern guns that should help you, but if you come up short PM me. You can get 3D printed barrels (with the trunnions) of each size in black resin for a good price. I paid $8 for 20 barrels about a year ago after sending a drawing in STL format and giving the printer the lengths that I needed for the model. He just reduced the full size dimensions to what I needed and had it done in a few days. I am going to be challenging him soon with 32 barrels at 1:200 scale which should be interesting. Allan
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Thanks B.E. Hopefully they will correct the mistake, but as you indicate, why bother if most folks are unaware of the inaccuracies. I really think that most builders care about accuracy so incorrectly assume that when they spend hundreds of dollars/Euros for a kit, it is accurate so never check against contemporary sources to be sure. What I find especially frustrating is to see anyone pointing out an error getting chastised or called an elitist, Allan
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BE, Again your work is exemplary and a lot has to do with your research. Congrats! I do have a question regarding the tholes on the model below, I hope you can help me. Do you know if this design is based on any contemporary plan? I thought that if the boat is double banked there should be more tholes, ie: a pair for each thwart as on one of your other boats. Or, if single banked, they should alternate port/starboard so one for every thwart. I cannot find any contemporary plans, models or information in Lavery or May that shows the setup that the kit depicts with a double bank set up on every other thwart. I would be grateful if you can shed some light as I have been in the midst of researching constructions of ships' boats lately and gathering as much information as possible. Many thanks Allan
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I agree in that I also look for ease many times. I gave up on cutting out frames for scales of 1:48 or smaller, and changed to holly which is as pliable as paper when soaked for a few minutes so easy to form around a plug. Pics and those thousand words,,,,,,, Allan
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One of the nicest things about building ships' boats is that there are so many free contemporary drawings and accurate scantlings available that anyone can scratch build a better boat, even with hand tools, than those found in most kits. Power tools obviously speed things up, but are not at all necessary. Allan
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BE, Thanks I am sure there are some that find this kind of thing trivial which is totally fine, but it is nice to know there are folks like yourself that can be sticklers for as much accuracy as possible. Do you happen to have the W.E. May book The Boats of Men of War? It is not expensive and has scantlings and other information that are very useful to anyone building a ship's boat that is interested in an accurate rendition. Allan
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I love the use of the sketch in the third photo. Is it from the kit or did you draw it yourself? It is really nice to see you have a couple removable thwarts on the model itself as this is often missed. Allan
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I totally agree, it makes for a far more interesting build log for folks like us that enjoy the research and history as much as the wood. Allan
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Welcome to you and your band of renown! Lots of good ideas above to try Les- For good quality bits (you get what you pay for, so avoid the cheap crap from China) there are adequate sources out there. You do not mention where you reside so hard to pick a specific source. If you are in the US https://www.mcmaster.com/drill-bits/system-of-measurement~metric/drill-bits-11/size~0-42-mm/ They have smaller and larger. Get two or three as this small size is prone to breakage no matter the quality. If you are outside the US just look for good jobber bits. There are average quality hobby bit sets down to #80 that work well in wood. Sounds like you need a number 78 or perhaps 79 that would be in those sets. A good quality pin vice instead of an power drill is another consideration. Allan
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Welcome to MSW Victor!! Allan
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This is a great idea except depending on your scale, you may need a less blunt point. The plating from most, NOT ALL, kit makers supply plating that is the wrong size (48"X15" if full size), is not meant to properly over lap like shingles, and has huge bumps that are the equivalent of 3" or 4" rivet head instead of tiny indentations from 1/4" nails that would have 1/2" heads. The pin pricking is the closest way to get there other than laser or etching. The sketch below may help. If your scale is 1:64 or smaller, you will have a hard time making any kind of fastener marks to scale, so may be better leaving the copper plates plain. Allan Allan
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Blocks and belaying pins and handedness
allanyed replied to Srenner's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Great catch Henry!!! -
Hi Keith, More skill??? I respectfully disagree. A little time to study the planking primer here at MSW articles data base and the Chuck Passaro videos on planking make it easier than the method shown on AL, OcCre, et al. Unfortunately many kit builders trust that the kit maker got it right which is often not the case. Why anyone that is about to spend hundreds of dollars and countless hours on a build, does not spend a few days of research of contemporary plans and models that are readily available for free and compares these to the kit before making the purchase baffles me. Allan
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Looking really good Jon, Thanks for the updates, your build is a pleasure to follow. Just so you know, your background study has been as interesting as any I have read here at MSW, kudos for doing all the research. Did you give the talk you mentioned this month? Thanks Allan
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Blocks and belaying pins and handedness
allanyed replied to Srenner's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I am sorry I don't have much of an answer other than to run your ringers down the line to be sure there is no twist before belaying. Can you share what vessel this is? You mention these are shrouds, thus standing rigging. Having the two blocks so close to the belaying pins is a new one for me as is having any standing rigging secured to a belaying pin. I would love to learn more about this so thanks in advance. Allan
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