allanyed
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If you reside in the US or maybe Canada try https://www.mcmaster.com/drill-bits/ You can get them down to 0.006" diameter. These are not cheap at the smallest sizes, but they are excellent quality. Allan
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Thanks David and Eberhard. I have used the methods you describe with success in the past but at 1:196, it is whole different ball game as the width of the muntins is about 0.008" The smallest styrene I can find is 0.01 so a tad too large, but maybe workable. I have a small supply of English boxwood and will see what I can come up with using that material and see how these all compare. FUN TIMES!! Allan -
Another question has arisen on the stern lights frames. I have been playing with a 1:196 POF model that is a giant bag of frustration. I have been studying methods described in books by McCaffery, McNarry and Reed. Even with the help of the work of these authors it is EXTREMELY difficult for me compared to larger scales, but wanted to give it a try. My question regarding the stern lights -- was there a standard number of panes in each light on a 32 gun frigate mid 18th century? I have seen 12, 9, 6, and 4, but not sure if one or the other or all were used in actual practice on a ship this size. This particular model is based on the contemporary drawings of Boston 1762 so will follow the contemporary plan below which shows 6 panes but is it realistic? The frame work at this scale is particularly difficult to make at scale so I have gone with 32 gage white coated wire in lieu of wood. I tried 28 gage but it is pretty far out of scale so all the frames have been removed and I now await the new gauge wire which, as in many things these days, is out of stock. (Any leads on this would also be most welcome😀) Below is the Boston plan and photos of contemporary models of other 32s from RMG as well as my less than stellar results at this scale. Allan
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I really wish I could be there with Chuck, David, you and the attendees. Hopefully next time!!! Enjoy Allan
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I've been told that Preble Hall will be putting out a new exhibit of miniatures later this year or early next year including models by McCaffery, Reed, and McNarry, the gurus of wooden ship models in very small scales. Allan
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Evan Welcome to MSW. Please post a little about yourself in the new member forum. For $5 you can get an excellent booklet from SeaWatch books on how to make paper sails written by noted author and ship modeler David Antscherl. It will teach you all the "how to" tricks you need to make realistic sails. https://seawatchbooks.com/products/swan-iv-sail-making-supplement-from-the-revised-and-expanded-edition-by-david-antscherl Allan
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It is fun watching so much of the great work resulting from your books Ed so it is a great pleasure for me as well! Allan
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Hi Dan, While Pequod was fictional, it was supposedly a Nantucket whaler. Have you contacted the Nantucket Historical Association? https://nha.org/research/nantucket-history/history-topic/whaling/ Maybe try the New Bedford Whaling Museum or Mystic Seaport for some ideas as well. It sounds like you are willing to make changes to a kit to make things right, but hopefully you can find one that is a better choice to start. Per your earlier post, this is your first wooden model so seriously consider putting this project on the back burner for a little while and start with a less complex high qual kit or series like the three vessel set from Model Shipways. Assembling parts in a kit is one thing, but as you will be modifying it, the learner series will teach you good techniques and save you a lot of frustration down the road. This sounds like it could be a really fun project. Allan
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Forum(s) for multiple questions
allanyed replied to Dan DSilva's topic in How to use the MSW forum - **NO MODELING CONTENT**
Hi Dan, As you are a beginner be very careful in your choice. Many folks take on a kit with a big name like HMS Bounty or HMS Victory, resulting in probably ten unfinished models for every finished one. It certainly can be done, but the odds are against you. If you start with a few simpler HIGH quality kits you will learn great woodworking techniques that will stay with you as you advance. While wood kits have now gone to laser cut parts in many instances, it is not like assembling a plastic kit. There is sanding and other finishing techniques, but none are overwhelming and the results you can see in the many build logs. Everyone has their druthers on where to start, but I do not recall seeing even one negative comment on starting with the three vessels series from Model Shipways that was designed by author and professional ship modeler David Antscherl. There are a number of build logs here for these vessels so they can be a great aid to you as well. https://modelexpo-online.com/Model-Shipways-Shipwright-3-Kit-Combo-Series_p_5465.html Good luck!! Allan -
Forum(s) for multiple questions
allanyed replied to Dan DSilva's topic in How to use the MSW forum - **NO MODELING CONTENT**
Welcome to MSW Cathead posed pertinent questions. If you would provide more information you will get lots of good advice. How much experience do you have? This is important as there are great kits for beginners as well as a some good ones for experienced builders. There are also a lot of choices that many would avoid due to poor instructions, inaccurate parts, and poor materials. Read the forum here at MSW on banned kits as build logs based on stolen property are not permitted here. Unfortunately there are many starting with ZHL. Allan -
Michael, Your own gratings should be a great lesson for the kit maker. Yours are superior to most, if not all kit supplied gratings. Well done. Allan
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You are absolutely correct. Many of us have been scratch building for MANY MANY years, long before the internet and we all still ask questions. Allan
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M. Haricot Ed is correct, this was normal practice. For Naiad in particular look at the contemporary drawing from 1797 at RMG Collections. https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-82405 You can see that the rabbet ends at station 28. Allan
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Maybe I had a bad batch Mark, but these were the worst bits I have ever had. I wound up replacing them with good jobber bits but kept the box with holding tubes for each size as it was actually the best part of the set. The originals went in the garbage as they would not drill through even softened brass. Caveat emptor! Allan
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I could not agree more BE. Thanks for continuing to share your build!! Allan
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Sorry Hamilton, but it does not open for me. Can you just attach using the drag or choose file attachment function? If you don't already have the following, thought you might see how it compares to the kit. Up until her refit her compliment of guns on the lower decks were presumably the same as what Caruana calls "normal" 74s which had twenty-eight 32 pounders of 9 1/2 feet on the lower deck, twenty-eight 18 pounders of 9 feet on the upper deck, and four 9 pounders of 8 1/2 feet and fourteen of 7 1/2 feet in the upper works. He goes on to mention that Bellona and Fortitude then received six 12 pounder carronades in 1781 but does not mention which of the long guns, were replaced. All the long guns were likely Armstrong pattern of 1760 as the Blomefield pattern did not come into use until about 1787. There are drawings and dimensional information the Armstrong pattern guns that should help you, but if you come up short PM me. You can get 3D printed barrels (with the trunnions) of each size in black resin for a good price. I paid $8 for 20 barrels about a year ago after sending a drawing in STL format and giving the printer the lengths that I needed for the model. He just reduced the full size dimensions to what I needed and had it done in a few days. I am going to be challenging him soon with 32 barrels at 1:200 scale which should be interesting. Allan
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Thanks B.E. Hopefully they will correct the mistake, but as you indicate, why bother if most folks are unaware of the inaccuracies. I really think that most builders care about accuracy so incorrectly assume that when they spend hundreds of dollars/Euros for a kit, it is accurate so never check against contemporary sources to be sure. What I find especially frustrating is to see anyone pointing out an error getting chastised or called an elitist, Allan
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BE, Again your work is exemplary and a lot has to do with your research. Congrats! I do have a question regarding the tholes on the model below, I hope you can help me. Do you know if this design is based on any contemporary plan? I thought that if the boat is double banked there should be more tholes, ie: a pair for each thwart as on one of your other boats. Or, if single banked, they should alternate port/starboard so one for every thwart. I cannot find any contemporary plans, models or information in Lavery or May that shows the setup that the kit depicts with a double bank set up on every other thwart. I would be grateful if you can shed some light as I have been in the midst of researching constructions of ships' boats lately and gathering as much information as possible. Many thanks Allan
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I agree in that I also look for ease many times. I gave up on cutting out frames for scales of 1:48 or smaller, and changed to holly which is as pliable as paper when soaked for a few minutes so easy to form around a plug. Pics and those thousand words,,,,,,, Allan
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One of the nicest things about building ships' boats is that there are so many free contemporary drawings and accurate scantlings available that anyone can scratch build a better boat, even with hand tools, than those found in most kits. Power tools obviously speed things up, but are not at all necessary. Allan
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BE, Thanks I am sure there are some that find this kind of thing trivial which is totally fine, but it is nice to know there are folks like yourself that can be sticklers for as much accuracy as possible. Do you happen to have the W.E. May book The Boats of Men of War? It is not expensive and has scantlings and other information that are very useful to anyone building a ship's boat that is interested in an accurate rendition. Allan
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I love the use of the sketch in the third photo. Is it from the kit or did you draw it yourself? It is really nice to see you have a couple removable thwarts on the model itself as this is often missed. Allan
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I totally agree, it makes for a far more interesting build log for folks like us that enjoy the research and history as much as the wood. Allan
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Welcome to you and your band of renown! Lots of good ideas above to try Les- For good quality bits (you get what you pay for, so avoid the cheap crap from China) there are adequate sources out there. You do not mention where you reside so hard to pick a specific source. If you are in the US https://www.mcmaster.com/drill-bits/system-of-measurement~metric/drill-bits-11/size~0-42-mm/ They have smaller and larger. Get two or three as this small size is prone to breakage no matter the quality. If you are outside the US just look for good jobber bits. There are average quality hobby bit sets down to #80 that work well in wood. Sounds like you need a number 78 or perhaps 79 that would be in those sets. A good quality pin vice instead of an power drill is another consideration. Allan
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Welcome to MSW Victor!! Allan
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