allanyed
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Everything posted by allanyed
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Congrats on a great build!!! Do you know if the carbon rod is epoxy reinforced carbon or plastic composite type or some other? Seeing your use of this material was new for me so I looked for it on-line and found there is more than one type, thus my question. Thank you Allan -
Hi Rob There is a need but I am not sure how this could be done commercially on a relatively small scale. Some of us build our own cases, some get them from a local cabinet maker. There are a few on-line but not sure how well these work out, especially for large models. A fully rigged model of a 1:48 scale ship can be in the neighborhood of 4 feet long, four feet high, and 2 feet wide. Shipping the frame and panes or base with pre-assembled cover would require a full blown shipping crate. Maybe display case kits in a few dozen stock sizes would work. I hope this winds up being a success for you as building cases is not my favorite pastime. Allan
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You wrote that the model is scaled 1:78? Just curious if this is a kit as most Victory kits are closer to 1:98 It sounds like you want to just nail the caps in place rather than hinging them. At small scales such as 1:78, that is no doubt the easiest method. If it is 1:78, copper wire of about 26 or 28 gage would be appropriate for the diameter. Copper is comparable to softened brass so can be peened over as Keith suggests. In addition, it can be blackened in situ with liver of sulfur which you cannot do with brass blackening agents without staining the wood. You can also purchase a cup shaped burr to round the top if you are not comfortable peening it over. Lastly, you can get brass pins from various hobby suppliers such as Micro Mark. https://www.micromark.com/Miniature-Nails-Package-of-100_2 These may be over scale. Allan
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Welcome to MSW!! Shipping may be an issue, but you cannot go wrong with the three vessel beginner series designed by David Antscherl, modeler extraordinaire, and a member here. They are available from Model Shipways. https://modelexpo-online.com/Model-Shipways-Shipwright-3-Kit-Combo-Series_p_5465.html These will teach you great habits and techniques that will serve you well as you move on to more complex vessels. Allan
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Ciao Giuseppe, welcome to MSW. You have just gained 43,000 new friends and I for one am very happy to see another member from northern Italy as I have had the great fortune of making well over 100 visits there for work and pleasure to a number of areas from Varese to Firenze, and Pisa to Cattolica. Allan
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Jake, Warm welcome to you to MSW!!! Please do post a little intro about you on the new member forum Sorry to ask, but this one is new for me. Could you please explain what RBI glue, tick glue and white fast glue(s) is/are? Many thanks! Allan
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A warm welcome to you here at MSW Bill. In short..... what Jaager said. Take it all very seriously. GOOD FOR YOU starting with the top quality beginner series!!! I did not realize any of the three vessels in the three part series had a double layer of hull planking. Is that correct? Double planking is mostly found in lesser quality kits but this series is tops. Allan
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Hi Harlequin The planking start looks really good. Now the fun part below the wales. At least the tutorial by David Antscherl and Chuck Passaro's videos will give you a lot of help in getting the rest done without too much difficulty. Wish these were around back in the day for a lot of us. Do the instructions in your kit show how to trim the top timbers to the proper moulded dimension which would be about 6" versus the 30" or so that shows now for Endeavour? If you have not already seen them, there are six photos of a model of Endeavour at the Royal Museum Greenwich that show a lot of details. https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-66316 Below is what I mean about the moulded dimension on the Corel design versus what it would have been on the ship itself. There are a number of her contemporary plans in high resolution on the Wiki Commons site on the 8th page for Endeavour as well. Allan
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OC If no one responds having the drawings for the PA kit, there are contemporary plans of both the Victory 1765 on the RMG Collections site that you can download. These have scales so you can adjust as needed to match the scale of your kit. There are also drawings in various books including Longridge's Anatomy of Nelson's Ships. As a Victory fan I hope you have signed up for the Trafalgar TV series noted in the signature below. Allan
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Welcome to this motley crew. Where does your interest lie, merchant, navy, which century, &c? Barring scratch building, if you feel you have enough experience to tackle a more complex kit, study the build logs as suggested. There are a few good kit makers as well as a number of others that make one wonder if they have any idea what a ship actually looked like so caveat emptor. Allan
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Hi Bianco Looking at their models, their kit designs seem to be more their own fantasy rather than replicating how the ships, including Victory, looked or were outfitted. Lots of folks "bash" these kind of kits and replace items from belaying pins to lights to cannon with something realistic. Allan
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Paddle Wheel Boat Made Out of Tin Metal and Hand Painted
allanyed replied to Olivia_Lee's topic in New member Introductions
Hi Olivia, The stand may have been with the original toy set made and sold by Marklin. Did you contact them? toys@marklinstop.com Allan -
Welcome to MSW Bianco Please post a little introduction on yourself and your experiences in ship modeling on the new member forum here at MSW. The stern lights and gallery lights (windows) were clear glass. I am pretty sure they did not have tinted glass when Victory was sailing.😀 Allan
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The Gyros set is also available at Micro Mark under the Rodgers name as well as many hobby shops and hardware stores under various names. I used them in the past and found them to be OK for wood but dull or break very quickly on brass. The big plus is they are cheap compared to good quality bits. Allan
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Hi Dave, CAD work and spread sheets of scantlings are started. Only need to live to 120 to get all the projects done.
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If you can't find a kit of that era for your hoped for project in scales smaller than about 1:98 there are books on building these vessels at 1:196 or smaller. Reed, McCaffery and McNarry offer details and insights in books and video. Building at a larger scale is difficult, especially for a beginner. At smaller scales it is far far more difficult. Do consider starting with something less complex so you can learn how, then move up to something more detailed like three masted whaler. Allan
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Paddle Wheel Boat Made Out of Tin Metal and Hand Painted
allanyed replied to Olivia_Lee's topic in New member Introductions
Hi Olivia, welcome to MSW! It is indeed an "antique" toy https://www.prices4antiques.com/Toy-Boat-Paddlewheel-Riverboat-Victoria-New-York-Tin-Side-Wheeler-22-inch-E8865044.html Even though it looks nothing like any real boat ever built if you like it, display it and enjoy it. Allan -
I travel around the US and Canada. Often nowhere near a good hobby shop, but I prefer in-store when I can. It is sometimes possible to find adequate quality bits at the smallest sizes in a hobby shop, but if you really want high quality bits you need to get them from an industrial supplier, like Grainger or McMaster Carr et al. I used to go to the MM distribution center and warehouse in NJ in person when I bought these kinds of things, but I am no longer in short range of such distribution centers. Maybe there is an industrial supplier near you. https://www.grainger.com/category/machining/drilling-holemaking/drill-bits/drill-bits-for-metal-plastic?attrs=Drill+Bit+Size|%2380&filters=attrs which has several 0.02" (#80) bits is one more example. Again, they are not cheap, but they work. Allan
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Jim Byrnes Thickness Sander Operation Tips
allanyed replied to ChrisLBren's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
If you feel the drum starting to stall or labor, you are taking off too much at a time. If not, that probably is not the issue. Do you have a vacuum attached to take away the sawdust? If you don't, depending on speed of the wood passing through, which should be steady as mentioned by Mark, it can build up on the board if you stop or slow down on pushing the wood through and cause this problem. Also, be sure the sandpaper is on the drum tight so there is no bump. Hopefully it is not a bearing issue. Allan -
WOW, lots of great ideas to try. Gregory, card stock might just work! Thank you very much. As to milling, I have thickness sanded various woods down to 0.01 and thinner with my Byrnes thickness sander but it usually curls and is so fragile that it has not worked well for me in the past. I have not tried it with English box but may give it a try. Roger, I had not thought of your idea, but it sounds like another great one to try. I would need to find a blade that will leave slots under 0.01 wide. I have a blade on order that is 0.015 for making the gratings, but I need to see if there are slotting blades under 0.01. Thanks to all, this has been an eye opener for me!! David, Yeah, 1:196. Dopey me trying this but what the heck. Know anyone that does photoetching? 😀 I gave up doing etching myself years ago. Maybe time for another go at it. Maybe better to go back to Litchfield at 1:64 🤐 Allan
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If you reside in the US or maybe Canada try https://www.mcmaster.com/drill-bits/ You can get them down to 0.006" diameter. These are not cheap at the smallest sizes, but they are excellent quality. Allan
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Thanks David and Eberhard. I have used the methods you describe with success in the past but at 1:196, it is whole different ball game as the width of the muntins is about 0.008" The smallest styrene I can find is 0.01 so a tad too large, but maybe workable. I have a small supply of English boxwood and will see what I can come up with using that material and see how these all compare. FUN TIMES!! Allan
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Another question has arisen on the stern lights frames. I have been playing with a 1:196 POF model that is a giant bag of frustration. I have been studying methods described in books by McCaffery, McNarry and Reed. Even with the help of the work of these authors it is EXTREMELY difficult for me compared to larger scales, but wanted to give it a try. My question regarding the stern lights -- was there a standard number of panes in each light on a 32 gun frigate mid 18th century? I have seen 12, 9, 6, and 4, but not sure if one or the other or all were used in actual practice on a ship this size. This particular model is based on the contemporary drawings of Boston 1762 so will follow the contemporary plan below which shows 6 panes but is it realistic? The frame work at this scale is particularly difficult to make at scale so I have gone with 32 gage white coated wire in lieu of wood. I tried 28 gage but it is pretty far out of scale so all the frames have been removed and I now await the new gauge wire which, as in many things these days, is out of stock. (Any leads on this would also be most welcome😀) Below is the Boston plan and photos of contemporary models of other 32s from RMG as well as my less than stellar results at this scale. Allan
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I really wish I could be there with Chuck, David, you and the attendees. Hopefully next time!!! Enjoy Allan
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I've been told that Preble Hall will be putting out a new exhibit of miniatures later this year or early next year including models by McCaffery, Reed, and McNarry, the gurus of wooden ship models in very small scales. Allan
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