allanyed
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Everything posted by allanyed
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Not to steal your log Gary,...... Steven I see that this is your first post. WELCOME to MSW. Please do post an intro in the new member section to let us know a little about you. Thank you! Allan -
Your first layer of planking looks to have the strakes tapered and spiled which is great. Will you be doing the same for second layer? It is so nice to see proper planking techniques with your kit. Was this part of the kit instructions or did you do this on your own? Either way, it is great to see! Allan
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Welcome to MSW Farmer. At 25 years old you are still a kid to most of us 😀 I know freight is an issue more than ever, but if you go with the three vessel series you will likely be hooked on ship modeling forever and you will learn SOOO much that will carry forward as you get into more complex models. Look at the build logs again and note which brands are predominant. There are good reasons. At least, before you go there, ask which specific kits they have and post again to get some feedback on those specific kits before spending your money. Some may be great, others not good. Again, welcome to MSW! Allan
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Allen, The groove is called a rabbet which I believe comes from the French word rabbat, meaning a recess and is a dynamic landing space for the edge of the garboard. The rabbet goes from the top of the stem, down to the keel, aft to the stern post, then up to the wing transom. Along the keel it is shaped in conjunction with the frames (or bulkheads) so the garboard strake fits neatly and securely. The sketch below shows where it is very dynamic aft to accept the garboard as it goes from near horizontal midships to near vertical. Practically speaking, you can install the garboard any way you like and it may look OK if done with care. Look at your models and compare to models with a rabbet. There are MANY photos of models at the RMG Collections site that you can study. Pic below may be of some help. The second pic is a contemporary model that happens to have drop strake. Note how, every strake tapers and other than the drop strake ends at the rabbet. Allan
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A method for making panelled sails using paper
allanyed replied to Cathead's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Hi Kevin If you do a search here at MSW on silkspan or silk span there is mention of a You Tube presentation in one or two of the discussions that may answer your questions. It is similar to the methods in Swan IV Supplement on making sails. Seawatch Books offers the booklet for about $8 if it is stock. Allan- 49 replies
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Based on your posts, you are succeeding quite well. Hopefully those kit makers such as this one with arguable quality levels will see what you have done and fix the myriad of mistakes you have come across. Allan
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A method for making panelled sails using paper
allanyed replied to Cathead's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I agree with Eberhard. MAYBE experiment using silk span and matte medium instead of paper and diluted glue. Sig makes three thicknesses, 00 being the thinnest, GM (medium) and SGM (heavy) https://sigmfg.com/products/sig-silkspan-tissue?variant=465592221705 There is a great booklet by David Antscherl at Seawatch books, You Tube videos, and a lot of discussions here at MSW on using this material, including painting (off white or any other color as needed), making reinforcing pieces, and more. Allan- 49 replies
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Sadly it seems to have become the motus operandi for them and a number of other kit makers. Luckily there are several high quality brands from which to choose for future projects. Allan
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Doug, This may not apply to Bounty, but your adding the hanging knee is actually far more appropriate than the frame work provided by AL. Instead of a hanging knee they appear to have a hanging standard as part of the frame. Standards were often used on the orlop and platforms, but for the time of Bounty I don't think they would have them on the upper decks. There would normally be a clamp (thick strake) on which the deck beams rest and a hanging knee and lodging knee, nothing like the design they came up with. (I realize they are in business to make money and have to go cheap as much as possible) FYI the handing knee and lodging knee would be sided about 7" thick. for a ship her size. Pictures, 1000 words, &c. No doubt impossible to change on your build at this point, but adding the hanging knees as you are doing is a great idea. Allan
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HMS Terror by richardhd - OcCre
allanyed replied to richardhd's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1801 - 1850
Hi Richard Good to see you back at it! To avoid the problems of the first layer of planking, will you be studying the tutorials in the Articles section here at MSW on how to plank the hull. The tutorial by David Antscherl as well as You Tube videos (4 parts) on the internet by member/moderator Chuck Passaro are invaluable pieces that will save you a lot of grief and yield a realistic hull versus the fairy tale hull planking seen on OcCre models. Allan -
For the future, consider that there was no rule that the butts were to be symmetrical on each side of the king plank. Planking was laid in either four butt and three butt shifts for the decks to assure the planking did all start or end on the same beams. There are diagrams showing this on page 58 in Goodwin's The Construction and Fitting of the English Man of War 1650-1850. Perhaps the American Navy did it differently, but for the British, the decks that were open to the elements were laid out in the four butt shift system, not the three butt system. Allan
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Super warm welcome from a bit SW of you. Allan
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Nicely done Dlowder! Does the kit provide the parts for the gun carriages? The reason I ask is that among other oddities it appears the rear trucks are the same diameter as the front trucks rather than being a smaller diameter as they should be. Thanks Allan
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La Palme by Tobias - 1:36 - POF
allanyed replied to Tobias's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
I was about to hit the like button, but had to make a comment. Your having started scratch building only two months ago and your success so far has been fantastic and your build log is a pleasure to follow! Allan -
Welcome to MSW Mark, glad to have you on board. Hopefully some member will have gone through this kind of scenario and can help. Have you researched paintings by Aldous, Turner, Crepin, et al that show this kind of thing? Not sure they would be much help, but maybe..... With the ships fighting and sailing, lines that parted would be flapping in the breeze along with the sail and very hard to depict on a model. I hope you succeed as I for one would love to see such a model. Where in Southern Cal are you? I had the pleasure of living in Orange County back in the day. Allan
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Mark IMHO you have started with the best beginner kits available so have already jumped far ahead of the majority of ship modelers with minimal experience. Go with the least complex and work up as Chris has suggested, that is the fewer the parts the simpler the kit but still letting you gain experience without a lot of frustration. Allan
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RMG Collections is a wealth of information. Cheers Allan
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Hi Bedford You may be right about the little bit of knowledge as that seems to be the situation with some, not all, kit makers. But, based on the contemporary models and photos of others that I have seen, the plans in this case are correct. Most contemporary models that I checked out at RMG and Preble Hall do not show the top angled piece at the top at all, but those that do invariably face aft. Whether round or square the top pieces of the chimneys could be adjusted for the heading and direction of the wind. Interestingly I found no contemporary plans or models with the stack the way you show it but perhaps some other member can post a photo of a contemporary model or plans with the stack facing forward. Lavery goes into a lot of detail on the Charlie Noble (chimney) including their design and adjustments in The Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War on page 200. Allan
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I have never had a problem using European boxwood, maple, or castello for the gratings, head ledges or coamings. I have gone to Swiss pear for the coamings and head ledges in lieu of painting them red on several occasions. Allan
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This is great advice. You can also do this with initial clear coat spray to seal the edges before spraying color. One other thing that I learned from a lab techie when I worked for PPG Industries coatings and resins division ----do NOT ever start the spray on the object. Start next to, but off the item to be painted then move steadily laterally across the item and continue until you are PAST the item. If you start and/or stop on the object the spray will be uneven. Allan
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No matter the method you wind up using remember the gratings need to be solid on the periphery. This sometimes ends giving slightly different overall dimensions than the plans, so make the gratings first, then make the head ledges and coamings to suit rather than trying to adjust the grating dimension to fit into the coaming. Also, the battens should run fore and aft, not the ledges (not to be confused with the head ledges) Allan
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An inexpensive hot air gun will speed up the drying process and I find it holds its shape as well or better than air drying. I THINK it has something to do with setting the elasticized lignan in the wet wood. There are far more knowledgeable members regarding the chemistry and the whys and why nots on this. Wood of course swells so gluing it before it is completely dry is problematic as it will shrink as it dries. Allan
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Great thinking, as none of us are immune to a failed attempt or two or fifty on any given project. Sometimes it is better to rip it out and go with a do-over, but sometimes a cover up is a lot more inviting. Allan
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Love your thinking and attitudes! These go a long way, not just for youngsters like you, but even for us oldsters. If you are ever in SW Florida, lunch is on me. Allan
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Kev, Just a general comment. Your stick to-itiveness has been great to see and you have made a very nice model especially considering what you had to work with. I imagine this project has been a great learning experience and I hope to see you follow up with a new project when this one is complete. If you do go with a kit, caveat emptor, there are two or three really good kit makers and a lot that are pretty awful as you have seen with this project. Allan
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