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allanyed

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Everything posted by allanyed

  1. allanyed
    I try not to use MM as their prices are high, but sometimes they are the only game in town. They used to carry blackend nails as well, so check to see. If you can only find brass soak them in a pickling solution then rinse thoroughly and blacken with a blackening agent. Whether you do it or get them already blackened, tapping them home will often expose the brass head again. https://www.micromark.com/Mini-Nails-3-8-Inch-Long-x-020-Inch-Dia-Pkg-of-100?gclid=Cj0KCQjw5ZSWBhCVARIsALERCvy2_kxKGzI89NcROjw8aisnyAtC48WdTr7heEeu782hMF3pb5KURVoaAsbdEALw_wcB I don't know the application you have in mind, but if you can, may you can go with copper wire which you can get in 24 or 26 gauge to be very close to 0.02" Once in place the end can be blackened with liver of sulfur. Allan
  2. allanyed
    Hi Ferrus I did a little digging and come up with nothing on what that sail is. As to adjusting the spinnaker, genoa, or gennaker, on a reach the following may help you. https://www.sail-world.com/news/236121/Beginners-guide-to-using-a-Spinnaker Allan
  3. allanyed
    Hi Chief What ship/year is your model? The reason I ask is that, depending on era, the openings in the channels were holes as you show them only up until 1771 but then slotted with an outboard edge cover board after that, at least in the RN (Goodwin The Construction and Fitting of the English Man of War, page 187). I believe that this was the case for American ships as well by the time of Baltimore Clippers in the 19th century. Hopefully a member will have additional contemporary based information. Allan
  4. allanyed
    Chief, The above is all too true. I wish you or someone would find and share a free detailed rigging source that covers hundreds of years and a full range of ship sizes. In the meantime you will need to invest in a good rigging book, but alas, there is only one that I know of, Lees' Masting and Rigging It is based on English ships. Marquardt is another great choice but I think it only covers the 18th century. Anderson is great as well, but is limited to the Days of the Spritsail Topmast. David Antscherl's volume IV of TFFM model is another that you should consider. Some folks like Petersson's book but it is based on a single contemporary model so very limited. Allan
  5. allanyed
    Welcome aboard Chris! You certainly are in the middle of the aerospace industry from Vashon to Boeing. From high flying metal to slow moving wood should be a fun change. Per all the posts, start slow, but be sure to stay with quality kits. Not all kit makers are created equal. As a true beginner what may make the most sense is to go with the three vessel series that has incremental challenges from Model Shipways that was designed by David Antscherl. Look at the build logs on these as well as others that you may have a hankering to build and be sure to ask for advice on any specific kit BEFORE you buy it. Allan
  6. allanyed
    That is the total truth Greg. No matter how many times these are done, they are never easy. Allan
  7. allanyed
    Gorgeous hatch assemblies!! It is so nice to see the coamings and gratings done realistically! Allan
  8. allanyed
    So far so good! 😀 Before you add any more strakes are you going to use tick strips to mark the width of all the other runs of planking so they end at the rabbet for and aft and do not end up coming to a point well short of the rabbet? Spiling and/or heat bending via Chuck Passaro's videos works wonders in getting the planking to lay properly. Allan
  9. allanyed
    Welcome to MSW Tanner. Look at all the build logs you can for a start. Are you working from plans for a shrimp boat or your own design? Type the word Shrimp in the search box and a number of builds will come up that may be of some help to you. Allan
  10. allanyed
    Hi Trond, Kudos for making the wheel from wood!!! It really looks great. Is there a reason you used 12 spokes instead of the 10 (or 8 on smaller ships) normally found on RN ships. Lavery, Arming and Fitting pages 22 and 23 goes into detail on wheel construction. Allan
  11. allanyed
    Ciao Piero, WELCOME TO MSW!! I had the good fortune to visit the Canton of Ticino about 20 years ago and drink their local grappa and taste young horse meat. I do not remember the name of the specific town, but my client's family, Camponovo was from there and gave us a very warm welcome. You live in a beautiful part of the Europe! Allan
  12. allanyed
    Hi Hamilton Does the kit explain about tapering the knee of the head? Looking at the build logs it seems most kits ignore this basic design feature. From Steel's Elements and Practice of Naval Architecture, a 74 would taper from the stem to the foremost point from about 16" at the stem to about 5 inches, so at 1:100, from 0.16" to 0.05" The Shipbuilder's Repository (1788) does not have the taper for a 74, but the ratio for other rates is the same as given in Steel. The AOS book by Lavery on Bellona shows the taper as well but not quite as severe. Measuring the drawing in that book it appears to taper from 16" to about 8" Without the taper, the figure head will most assuredly be bowlegged😀 The sketch below shows the taper per Steel and from the AOS book. Allan
  13. allanyed
    Thanks drtrap Looks like it is indeed a crossjack therefore there would be no sail so your sheet blocks can be removed. Looking forward to your next progress posts. As far as stop and go, most of us have done that, many more than once. For me it can be days, weeks. or months, and one time, a couple years when life got in the way. Cheers Allan
  14. allanyed
    Go Stillers!!! Hope we get some D out of the new guys and find a franchise quarterback this season. Allan
  15. allanyed
    Welcome to MSW Earl. Maybe post a little intro about yourself in the new member forum. As this is your first project of a wooden ship model, I would start with a good quality kit instead. Pick one that will also teach you proper techniques. Study the various build logs and give serious consideration to what is probably the best starter kits ever designed, the three vessel series from Model Shipways designed by David Antscherl. There are build logs here at MSW on these vessels that will also get you through any hurdles you need to jump as you move along. Allan
  16. allanyed
    Baker's planking is realistic looking and looks great!! modelshipworld.com/topic/14188-pelican-later-renamed-as-golden-hind-by-baker-scale-145-galleon-late-16th-century/page/2/ His is a great example to follow whether or not you use filler blocks. The kit design could use double the amount of bulkheads which would make planking far easier and reduce the need for the filler blocks which are a big help. Allan
  17. allanyed
    Were their kits any better back then than they are now? If they were just as bad back then as they are now, why pay anything? Allan
  18. allanyed
    Hi drtrap Your Snake model looks great! I am confused though by one part of the rigging and I hope you can explain. The crossjack would not have carried a sail on the ship rigged Cruizer class vessels Snake and Victor so why do the instructions call for sheet blocks as on your model? Thanks Allan
  19. allanyed
    Regarding the lantern, was the black silk and gilt tally woven with the ship's name a common practice? Allan
  20. allanyed
    Hi Andrew, Welcome aboard. Are you on the Steelers side of PA or the Eagles side? Cheers Allan
  21. allanyed
    Hi Clementine All the planks would be about 10" wide midships and would be tapered the same rather than some a lot and some not at all. It is is the same procedure as setting up planking on the ship itself (NOT the kit method😀) If not too much trouble, can you say what boats and their sizes are in the kit, be it launch, cutter, pinnace or what have you? THANK YOU! Allan
  22. allanyed
    Be sure to make tick strips and mark out every bulkhead. It will prevent a lot of trouble. For a visual rather than read on planking, the four part You Tube videos from Chuck Passaro is great.
  23. allanyed
    David, If this is a double planked model, no harm to get the second layer right. For the second layer, look at some plank expansion drawings and study the Primer on Planking tutorial here at MSW in the articles data base. Each plank should be tapered to about half its maximum width at the bow, but for the exact tapering you need to mark off each bulkhead to get the widths of each strake at that spot with tick strips or something similar as explained in the tutorial and in various posts here at MSW. Also note that the strakes usually widen as they approach the stern post. Allan
  24. allanyed
    Very neatly done planking! Just as an FYI for the future for ship's boats, launches, etc, W.E. May's book is a treasure trove of details that will help avoid the myriad of kit mistakes. One example from one of his pages of scantlings: A 30 or 32 foot launch would have 10" wide planks. Scaling your photo in a CAD program, the planks look to be about half that size. There are great contemporary plans available for free that allow anyone to scratch build a boat and hand tools are the only thing needed, although a scroll saw is a plus. There are 25 high resolution contemporary plans of gun boats on the Wiki Commons site on page 10 https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Ship_plans_of_the_Royal_Museums_Greenwich Even if building a kit, the drawings could be useful in showing what these boats really looked like. Allan
  25. allanyed
    Clever and it obviously works well!!! Alternatively, you can also use the following method, although your device might be easier at our scales.

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