rtropp

Dan, What is the length and height of the fully rigged Swan? I looked but could not find them to include the full masting including bowsprit. If you have the actual measurements from your Vulture that would help. Thanks Richard

Coppering looks good. Keep it up Richard

I just took another look at my post, boy does it ramble on, I guess you hit a nerve. Hope there is something in there that is helpful. Richard

I too agree with Mark. I tried to use Dremels and other power tools when I began but soon learned that they are hard for a beginner to control, especially when you are working on extreme miniatures and still learning what the outcome of the work should be. Working by hand will give you a feel for what it takes to get the right results before you try to speed things up. You will hear others on the site repeat the mantra, work slow, be patient, let the eye hand coordination build. I heeded early on when more experienced builders advised to treat each tiny component as a project in itself. When I started I did most of my cutout work with and Xacto or similar knife. I scored the cut lightly a few times before making my final cut. I also found that my cutting is better when I use a harder surface than the rubber cutting mat that are common to hobbyists. The mat might allow the piece to bend when cutting which can alter the cut or splinter the bottom of the cut. I have a piece of linoleum type tile that gives me better results than a cutting mat... which I still keep on the worktable for general cutting and to protect the surface of the table. It is very important to use sharp tools. A dull tool will "wander' with the wood grain. I buy my blades, mostly #11, by the hundred. Some of the folks keep a sharpening stone nearby and give them a swipe every few cuts. They still replace them frequently. Chisels need to be kept extremely sharp to slice wood rather than splinter it. I spent a fair amount of time learning how to sharpen chisels on diamond stone. My smallest chisels are 1/16" or a little smaller, so they dull quickly and require proper sharpening. Another of my most useful tools is a set of metal files for wood working. These are slower but will give you better results as you start. There are some good needle file sets that are cheap on Ebay. I especially like files made by Tamiya. They have three sizes with different grit. The key for me was to not try a quick back and forth motion but rather to take one or two passes at a time and then look at the work to see where I was. Also, with files and chisels I use a light stroke letting the tools do the work. I don't try to force them. They work better than sandpaper for because they keep their shape throughout the cut. When I started this hobby I did a lot of practice on scrap wood , still do before starting a complex cut. I often go through a lot of scrap wood, more than I care to admit to, before I get a usable part. I am one of those who enjoys the journey as much as getting to the destination. I will work for hours, with a pile of attempts in the scrap bin before I get what I want. There are those on MSW who make it look really easy, most have a list of builds under their names which built their skills. they had to learn at some point and they were not speed demons when the did, so try not to compare your initial attempts with their much more experienced work. As for frustration, we all experience that, even the very skilled. I find that stepping back... with a glass of vodka, helps. Richard

Al, I had to stop using MS Internet Explorer when posting. I ran into similar problems and started to use Google Chrome when posting to MSW and it worked well. Richard

I have worked on the second go at the figure head. It has been taking a lot of time, but I am enjoying it. Thanks to some other threads, I have found some really fine burrs as small as .4mm. While most if the figure has been carved using files, some of the the really tough spots have benefited from the fine burrs and really small gouges. There is still a lot to do, I figure I am about half way, but it is shaping up. I had some problems with the first one shown in the last posting. I now realize that I had cut the form out using the plans then used the supplied figure head to help guide the detailed work. Turns out they are different. the arms, hands and fins, even the hair is different. I was so focused on doing the shaping that I did'nt stop to notice the differences. The jury is still out on whether it will be good enough to use... but I think it will have to be really bad for me not to use it. Something about it being made here that has a nice ring to it. On another note. I was thinking about how difficult it can be to build the ship in miniature. So I figured, heck, I have a few acres. why not build the Syren full size... so I am putting together an order for boxwood and pear for the 240 ton brig. Oh.. wait a second, I live in Atlanta... how am I going to get it to the ocean. Oh well, cancel the order...:-) Richard

I have been using the Proxxon pen sander for about a year and I like it. The Pen sander is especially useful in tight corners or tough spots areas. I bought the larger capacity transformer and glad I did. I bought recently the Proxxon 50 ef rotary tool because it is thin and light and easier to handle than the Dremel or Dremel with flex shaft. (The flex shaft can be cumbersome to use with that heavy cable.) With the larger capacity transformer I am able to keep both tools ready. I may also get the Proxxon etcher and that will also fit in with the other two. (I have started trying to carve figure heads and other ships decorations so need the finer control.) I stopped buying the Proxxon sanding sheets because, as mentioned they do wear out and can get expensive. I buy adhesive backed sand paper at home depot and cut my own. It is pretty easy and they last a lot longer than the Proxxon (or micro mark.) Also you have a wider selection of grits to match the task at hand. I waited for a MicroMark sale and bought extra heads so I could keep various grits at hand. (The micromark fits the Proxxon, in fact, it looks the same except the Micromark does not require a transformer, it is AC. But, I suspect that might make the MM a bit heavier, don't know for sure, others may.) Richard

Are you sure they are out of business? I googled Mamoli and found a number of vendors as well as their web site. Richard

Hi, I am not sure if this was mentioned. I just ordered the Admiralty plans and CD's, There are actually two sets for the Swan on their order page. The first, for $150 covers the build and framing (the first three books in the series). The second set ($50) is for rigging and masting (I believe for the fourth book in the series.. Then, in addition, the ship specific plans for the version you choose should be ordered from the royal maritime museum. I did have questions about what will be missing from a build attempted without using the plans. Just curious. I had questioned the cost for the total package but Gregg or David suggested I figure the cost out given the number of hours... years required. Not so much when you think of it that way. Thanks Druxey, I stared the post this morning, then decided to edit it but was called away while the edit was in progress. When I posted it the screen refreshed and I saw your answer. Richard

Sal the coaming corners look great. The good part about me working so slowly is I get to see how you and the others did parts. Richard

Thanks all, the online site suggested by Frank was very helpful. Given the sites descriptions, the difficulty I had with 6061 must have been my inexperience, the cutters or equipment, or perhaps my impatience with how slow it went. I will keep trying. Thanks Richard

Beautiful work, Richard

Don, Very nice. Which grade of aluminum did you use? The grade I tried seems too tough to mill in my micromill. Thanks, Richard

Gahm, thanks. I found the section in Dirk's build log. Richard

Hi Sal, You must have been looking over my shoulder... I did mess it up. The sins of the early build are returning to haunt me. When planking the deck I used a sheet of 1/64 ply as a base as a false deck to correct for uneven frame tops. This added enough height to the deck to interfere with lining up the hawse holes. Luckily I used a #70 drill bit to test so it should be repairable. Not sure how this will impact things like the cannons, but will find out after the next few steps. If I am unable to rework with a correct line up of hawse holes, I may have to cut the hawse pipes with inboard and outboard not actually connecting but appearing to be continuous. The good news is I am learning what not to do and am getting better at, as Dirk calls it, deconstruction. The bad news is I am learning a lot of what not to do, and perhaps learning deconstruction too well :-) I stepped away from the build for a couple of days to let go of some frustration before I decide what to do next. I just received some really fine carving bits and I will spend some time improving my carving skills on the figure head while considering next steps for the hawse holes. Thanks, Richard

I have begun the hawse pipes. On the inboard side there is a piece that frames each pair. Is that precut (laser) or is there a template in the plans? I cannot get a clear picture in either the plans or the practicum so if not, I guess it is "free hand." Thanks, Richard

Hi all, its been awhile but I am back to my Syren build. I decided to try my hand at carving the figure head. It ended up taking a lot longer than I expected and I am going to have to give it a second try. This picture was part way through the process This one has been worked to better fit its place on the build but I had to take too much off to get it to fit. I think I am getting a feel for the carving but I need to to get the proportions a little closer and modify my sequence to get a better fit to the build. Richard

It is with much sadness that I report that Chuck has passed away. I, and our entire club, will miss him greatly. RichardT

Amazon has it listed as Chinese. Not sure that automatically means bad. Richard

Thanks Bill, I am going to give it a try with some custom ground dentist tools. Richard

very nice, what tools did you use to turn the brass cannon on the wood lathe... I would like to give that try myself. Richard

Hi Dan, It's been a pleasure watching your build. It looks great. Your detailed build notes have me considering trying it myself. Can't wait for your next build Richard

great fix, Richard

Mahuna, I have the proxxon transformer and not sure I want to add another. Jack, The WeCheer site shows a rechargeable unit, the 243. On amazon it is show as being used for polishing nails (at salons) but seems to have similar specs to the 248. WeCheer bills it as a power tool for carving, drilling, etc. Do you think it would work for modeling? I like the idea of cordless and 30 - 60 minute run time is ok for me. Richard

Very nice Sal, I am just starting those and being able to look ahead is really helpful. Richard