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Jim Lad
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Everything posted by Jim Lad
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Slow, but sure, Russ. It's good to see her coming along! John -
Sam, If you go back a page you can see the details o my post of the 19th. John
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Just catching up, Ron. That boat is looking excellent! John
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Just catching up, Bob. You've certainly made good progress, mate! John
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Ouch! But you probably got as lightly as you could hope for, Pat! John
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- Endeavour
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Very elegant, Danny! John
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Nicely done, Mark. John
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The stuff that I used didn't require the use of a vacuum chamber. John
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17th Century Shallop by ryesbeemer
Jim Lad replied to ryesbeemer's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Welcome to the 'dark side', mate! That looks like it will make a lovely model! John -
Just catching up, Gil. She's coming along very nicely indeed! John
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Just catching up ,Freek. She's coming along well! John
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That's really the cat's whiskers, Danny! John
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Delightful, Danny! John
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Coming along very nicely, mate! John
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Sherry, The stuff I used is 'Pinkysil' two component silicone mould maker, and 'Procast' medium set rigid polyurethane casting resin. These are both made by an Australian company called Barnes Products Pty Ltd. Their local shop web site has a lot of interesting information on it - http://www.barnes.com.au/catalog/index.php They also have some helpful 'how to' stuff on you tube that can be accessed from the web site. Hopefully this will give you enough information to atrack down what you need over there. John
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Sherry, I moulded the carronades for my Stag (1:96) from resin. I made a master from wood and copper wire and used that to make a mould - it worked extremely well. I had never tried resin casting prior to this and found the whole process slightly messy, but very simple to do. If you have 100+ cannons to make, you could probably make several moulds from your master and then go into mass production. John
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Very nice job on a bit of tricky joinery, Danny! John
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Just catching up, Toni - she looks great. I go away for a week and you build half a model! John
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Ollie, The planking above the wale would normally be parallel sided, but below the wale the planking will vary considerably in width, being widest at the stern and narrowest at the bow. The run in between will not be a simple taper, but the plank width will vary depending on the hull shape. Typically, the planks will be widest at the stern, then narrow in and then become a little wider about midships and then narrow in again towards the bow, but the actual shape is very much dependant on the shape of the hull. The 'run' of the planking is simply the line of each strake of planking along the hull. In this photo of the replica of the schooner 'Enterprize' (1829) under construction in Melbourne, the 'run' or the shape of the lines of planking can clearly be seen. John
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Neat bit of joinery, Danny! John
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That was a nicely done fix, Ollie. Watch the run of the planking - it'll get away from you if you're not careful. John
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You're really making some progress on this one! John
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Spare yards and spars stored on deck
Jim Lad replied to omarcs's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
If the spare spars are iron, then they would be painted; if wood, then most probably left natural. The lashing ropes would be hemp coloured. John- 1 reply
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I think I'd leave them 'as is', Ollie. Any extension would be really obvious and new parts would require life threatening surgery. John
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