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dvm27

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Everything posted by dvm27

  1. dvm27
    Your model is very lovely so far. Your concept of rigging the lower yards only with the top masts lowered and mostly derigged is reminiscent of illustrations I’ve seen off these ships in their winter configurations. Perhaps consider not gluing in the masts. Once you’ve added the shrouds, stays and back stays they are almost impossible to move but minor adjustments may be made by adjusting the standing rigging (just like the real vessel).
  2. dvm27
    Mine goes from 23" to 50". You can set the high and low with a memory button. This will prevent me from impailing my mainmast into a ceiling tile.
  3. dvm27
    Very sorry to hear of your recent losses Ab. If we live long enough this becomes inevitable I suppose. Your model is quite lovely. You have a very discernable style which produces simple elegant models.
  4. dvm27
    I just bought this FlexiSpot E7 and it's phenomenol. I bought the cheaper version and applied my own top. It is motorized and smooth as silk.
  5. dvm27
    I'm happy that you've created a new view of Doris's work. Though I suspect shee is done with ship model making her work deserves to be preserved gere forever as a resource. I would hate to lose it if some sort of crash occured.
  6. dvm27
    Your work is truely inspirational Johann. Could you have worked the thimbles into the pendants prior to installing them under the shrouds?
  7. dvm27
    The problem with such meticulous work is that the joint is barely visible when completed. Lovely work!
  8. dvm27
    While watching your video and your bowsprit problem I was going to suggest checking the stieve of your bowsprit vs. the plan. But you came up with this on your own. Your solution worked out well though. You could have worked in a set of beams on either side afore beam #1 but it will be hidden so not really an issue. You mentioned the "as built home plan" vs the architect's original plan. I'm sure you're aware that many ships plans were labelled "as built" and differed from the original plans as well, likrly for the same reasons.
  9. dvm27
    Hemostats, by nature, are designed to securely hold and crush tissue for hemostasis. The box section is rivited and there is no way to modify it for a looser grip (that would defeat their purpose). While I've not used them for ship model making you may want to try Doyen intestinal forceps. They have longitudinal groves designed to hold tissue but not damage it. As an example https://universalsurgical.com/product/doyen-forceps/. I think the 7" version might work well for your needs.
  10. dvm27
    Well done, Kevin! That's some tricky fitting.
  11. dvm27
    Love Leo's build and yours as well. I'll bet if you e-mailed Leo he would send you a piece of timber you could incorporate into the hull. I have corresponded with him in the past and he is indeed as nice as he seems
  12. dvm27
    I look forward to your new build, Chris. Had to laugh at your "smaller scale of 1:48" comment. I'm currently rigging a French warship of that era and the masts and spars are massive! Boudriot's rigging plans are superb though.
  13. dvm27
    Lovely work, Denis. Do you have a copy of "Building the Wooden Fighting Ship" by james Dodds & James Moore? It gives some very detailed illustrations about the workings of the shipyard at each phase of the constuction
  14. dvm27
    What a treat to find this Denis! Very much looking forward to this build. Pandora is a great choice and the Anatomy series, though not always 100% accurate, should give you lots of details. Any way you could insert Pegasus into the building slip?
  15. dvm27
    I have no doubt that your figurehead will be magnificent Giampiero. I do fear that that extended right leg will be amputated over time though. Perhaps that's why when horses rear up both fore legs usually are pulled in (see David Antscherl's pegasus below).
  16. dvm27
    A great tip from Druxey I learned is to tie every fifth ratline first. This insures proper spacing and non-pinching of the shroud lines. Then add every third ratline. Finaly, fill in the rest. This technique has the added advantage of seeming to be faster then the Sisyphean task of filling in from the bottom up.
  17. dvm27
    I can offer no help in this area Mark but isn't it humbling to know that some craftsman, over 250 years ago and under candle light, was able to form this precision detail with likely nothing more than a fretsaw and files?
  18. dvm27
    Great to have you back Remco. My holly from that era has also toned down to resemble the boxwood. I imagine at some point you will touch up those wales. I would encourage newcomers to this log to check out remco's earlier work. It's amongst the best you'll find on this forum.
  19. dvm27
    Lovely work Erik. Those tricky lower bibb details are especially well done
  20. dvm27
    They must think you are building an important model to be so accomodating. I agree that there must have been sheaves in those slots to redirect the rope or the chaffing would result in frequent replacement. I'm betting that the builder of this model had rigging fatigue at this point and probably just wanted to be finished. He never counted on a Johann to scrutinize is work centuries later!
  21. dvm27
    Lovely work Valeriy. May I ask where your splendid models end up? Museums?
  22. dvm27
    This is an area that is so often done wrong when re-creating these warships. I don't really understand all the geometry but intuitively your version just looks right. The eye truly is the best judge here.
  23. dvm27
    Well Bill, if leaving them overlong "kind of makes you ill" then you really have no choice but to modify them (assuming your sources are correct). It should be fairly easy to scan the sails and reduce them in size proportionally. Or you could just leave them as is and noone else would be the wiser (except you). But if you plan on making more model ships you should get in the habit of correcting inaccuracies whenever possible. It's an important step in becoming a semi or scratch builder. Loved our annual visits to Baguio in the 1970's during university breaks!
  24. dvm27
    Thank you Denis for taking this amazing journey with us. You've managed to bring our 3D model to life and helped many Swan class modelers along the way. Best of luck on your future modeling.
  25. dvm27
    That is a gorgeous ship model, Ben. Did you give any thought to adding stump masts? I look forward to your new work of your Swan model in the upcoming year(s). Greg

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