ASAT

That pic of Slim Pickens straddling that Gun? Are you referring to him in Dr. Strangelove riding The Bomb to thermonuclear glory?😎

Hey Glenn! I just saw this post, yes indeed, I was inspired by your cool deck and had a bunch of nice woods.....

I still have one about 75% done but I want to add rigging to it - link in my sig..... Glenn Barlow just posted pics of his FA in the gallery - one of the best examples of this fun kit I have ever seen!

So I got to looking at my capstan and thought it was over sized - looked at some resources on line and the whelps are all wrong, so I re worked it a bit, still a little big but it’s better and like I said, it’s practice for the one you will see. I know some of you guys looked at that thing and laughed, I give everyone permission to tell me if something isn’t right. At least then I’ll have the option of doing it over - constructive criticism is always good.....

Wow - now that would have been a lot of fun! You just knock that out in a weekend or two? Great Chris, now every one is going to be let down as they see my tiny little Revenge take shape. I think it’s cool to see how your designs developed- actually build them better and better....

It’s gonna look great Vane, I’m using maple on my Revenge build and I’m loving the flame figure coming through on the planks. Adds some extra dimension and just looks rich! I’ve seen a lot of clear grain/white maple decks on here and they all look great!

Glenn, you might be swayed when you see how the Bristol and Vanguard will be completely different builds, if it is designed like his Victory it will almost be a POF - at least it will all be interlocking mdf framing and each deck is completely built up, no dummy guns, no solid bulkheads, gunport positions exactly framed and in place by the design.... no copper plates (on Bristol) 👍 should be an awesome experience - at least for me, I have been excited about this one since Chris envisioned Vanguard Models.... and realistically it only has 12 more guns than a Minerva Class frigate 😀

And here it is on the model, and a pic of what the non modified capstan would have looked like, probably won’t see this one after all the decks go on but it was good practice for the one that’s going to be seen....😀

So the whelps are what’s bugging me the most so I re made them and made a new platform that it sits on, I think the capstan is supposed to be mounted on planking material that is a lot thicker? Anyway that’s what I did..... hers a comparison of the whelps and what I ended up with......

Today I added a few deck beams, planking support pieces at the bow and built the lower capstan. I didn’t like the kit offering much so I modified it to look a little more real? I hope... I think it looks better at least - here’s a pic of the kit supplied pieces ( only two whelps but you get the idea)

Geraddm, One of the BEST vendors, in any genre. it would be hard for me to decide who treats us better Jim or Chuck..... I’ve never met either one but I consider them both a friend. you’ll see..... Lou

Thanks James and Jeff, another deck tonight, the lower foc’sle I’ll call it😎 it has you put some planks cross ways to border the forward bulkhead and a forecastle deck beam, took too long but I started fairing the bulkhead framing for that forward bulkhead as well for when the ply pieces go on....

I agree Popeye, this is one of Chris Watton’s designs - his new stuff (Vanguard Models) is even better. I’m waiting for his 50 Gun HMS Bristol to come out but it’s gonna be awhile.

Thanks for the kudos O.C. and Popeye.... And the terminology..... There is another deck on top of the deck that the bowsprit goes through they are calling the forecastle, they called the one I’m talking about the “bow” deck but I thought bowsprit was more apropos? Popeye, there are actually two added decks and yes, the break lines get covered with some of that framing I was talking about. The decks however, are as sweet as they are gonna get.... there is two coats of WOPoly on them - I’m really liking this maple.... nicely figured.....

I also re-worked the companion hatchway, didn’t like the rough deck under it so I framed the opening and re built the coamings. Hey those grates have round holes!

Got two more decks planked and fitted, next up is the bowsprit deck ( is that a term?) and then a bunch of deck beam framing to support the upper decks (man! This thing has a lot of decks!) and the whipstaff framing, moving towards getting the plywood bulwark patterns in place and then planking.

One option that would save most of the planking is to score all the planks in a 4 or 5 butt shift pattern and then you could just remove the forward and aft sections of the planks and re do to the stem rabbit and stern ( if needed) then continue the shift down to the garboard and Bob’s your uncle!

And here is the main gun deck - I haven’t decided about leaving some grates off to view below or not, leaning towards not having them open but we’ll see. It doesn’t provide anything in the kit but on this deck there is a personnel hatch - I’m pretty sure there would be stanchions or something to keep guys from tripping and falling down the hatchway? Anyone know if that was done in 16th century ships yet? If so what should it look like? Same as later century’s? 😎 Looks like I need to put some paint on the deck portion underneath the hatchway edges....

I’m using some Maple for the deck planking, and made my own hatch coamings from Pear. I really like the flame on my maple strips, gives the deck a great look and a bit more dimension, as well as looking a lot better than the supplied Tanganika (IMO). At first I was a little miffed at the etched brass gratings but after painting them and installing them I think they look great! You have to get a lot closer than model viewing range to tell if the openings in the grates are round or square.... this is the orlop deck.....

I started the kit last weekend, so far everything is fitting excellently and I just used some steel blocks I have to square the bulkheads to the false keel, after building the framework it’s lots of deck planking so that’s where I’m at. I will say I was a bit surprised that the plans don’t show any construction steps or sequences but there is a full color, comprehensive instruction booklet that is making every step crystal clear....

I’m going to take another stab at a build log, I have been eyeballing this kit since Chris Watton gave his little preview of it way back when.... I found a few build logs on here but I think only one of them has been completed. I plan on doing my usual kitbashing - replacing most of the kit wood with Pear, Castello Boxwood, Maple, Holly, Redheart, etc.etc. I will probably break down and use some white paint where it’s called for but I hope to come up with some alternative to the decorative paper decals that are on the upper hull - thinking maybe I can do some inlay work or use some inlay strips or something as I don’t want to use the paper and I don’t really want that much bright coloration on my Revenge. I purchased the kit from Ages of Sail - first time I didn’t use CMB for a kit - even with a 5% discount CMB was over $30 more delivered.... I must say that Ages of Sail was top notch, a human answered the phone every time I called, they were knowledgeable, competitive and efficient, called right at closing - they still took my order, packaged it very well and got it out the next day. I won’t hesitate to buy from them again. Not affiliated, just great customer service and earned a great shout out.I won’t show the kit contents- James H. Has a great review on here and several logs show what you get. I must say that the kit is very nice, the supplied strips and dimensioned wood is very high quality, the MDF is great, etched brass, cannons and embellishments are well done. I’m not a big fan of the African Walnut (Dibetou) they provide but the laser cutting is top notch and as long as you are cautious with the grain direction it will be just fine. I will probably be re- making most of it with other woods though.

Hi Mark, I had the same question as you and found some good info searching build threads on here. I came to the conclusion that I would not buy the current Mantua offering as it appears they are using the same molds as the vintage kits. And they re designed the structure with pre cut and lasered decks and planking etc...Then I heard about Mckay’s Sovereign book that is supposed to be the best researched book on her, got in on the pre order and then I chanced a low bid on eBay for a early ‘90’s era Mantua kit and won it! I received it and the castings are the heavy brass ones and the kit was complete. Now I am waiting for the book to be released end of February. I’m hoping that I can build a fair representation with that kit and the book, and if I don’t use most of the kit I still got good value for $$ spent.....

Glenn, can you do a quick outline of what finally “clicked” or worked for you? I still struggle with planks that have to be irregular shaped or filler pieces that are on the bottom so you hope no one ever sees them, I have tried lining off, tick strips, spileing ( which was the closest I came but whew! Lots of work) if you have a process can you share it please? I just re-read your post about doing a log on the speedy build.... forgive my impatience- I am a visual learner, once I see it I get it but I have a hard time visualizing processes - and an even harder time ripping up my mistakes to try doing something over....😁 it’s funny, I’ve built lots of deck items etc several times to get them perfect but I hate tearing off planking- it’s definitely going to be a “ next level” hurdle for me.

Bob, In my case I am referring to castello boxwood, that is the only “boxwood” that I would use for planking or framing. I do have a log of buxus sempervirens (the real boxwood) that I bought many, many years ago from All Righteous Hardwoods - it came as a half log, and was sold by the pound, if I remember right it originates from Turkey, and you are correct by the time I mill that log and get a few good billets from it it would indeed be a waste to use it for planking or framing. Not to mention very expensive.... I have found a nice alternative to Castello- Anigre wood, it isn’t as clear as Castello but close and it does have a nice creamy to gold ish color, it mills well and holds a nice edge it may be a little harder on blades than Castello but you can buy a lot of blades from the savings. Still expensive but around 1/4 or less of the cost of Castello which is getting harder to source.

Plus to rip planking strips, you start with sheet stock as thick as your plank width....