ASAT
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Chuck, how about a video on bending hooks or making blocks? There must be some techniques that are better demonstrated than explained.... mine just don’t look right 😕
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Great tutorial Chuck, so you don’t glue the plank edge to the previous plank? Just put the glue on the bulkheads? Is that due to the increased number of bulkheads or would that also work on hulls with larger spacing between bulkheads? Thanks for taking the time to do these, I really appreciate and learn from them.....
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How to make filler blocks
ASAT replied to shortgrass's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Fill between the bulkheads with balsa, shape as you fair the hull to prepare for planking - I start with 80 grit on a long sanding bar and work up to 120-150 grit...... -
Got this from Wikipedia..... The boxes are native to western and southern Europe, southwest, southern and eastern Asia, Africa, Madagascar, northernmost South America, Central America, Mexico and the Caribbean, with the majority of species being tropical or subtropical; only the European and some Asian species are frost-tolerant. Centres of diversityoccur in Cuba (about 30 species), China (17 species) and Madagascar (9 species). Buxus sempervirens, the common box, European box, or boxwood, is a species of flowering plant in the genus Buxus, native to western and southern Europe, northwest Africa, and southwest Asia, from southern England south to northern Morocco, and east through the northern Mediterranean region to Turkey.[1][2][3] Buxus colchica of western Caucasus and B. hyrcana of northern Iran and eastern Caucasus are commonly treated as synonyms of B. sempervirens.[4][5]
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Jason, I call it CRS but I am probably a lot older than you 😎 Wonderful details as usual!
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I am! VM seems to be the only designer/company that is moving forward and utilizing new techniques to ensure accuracy and authenticity for the majority of model builders. Meticulous attention to detail will still be rewarded but the foundation is much more repeatable and reproducible resulting in more modelers moving beyond the “give up due to frustration” stage. I have been waiting to see a teaser of HMS Bristol’s framework or maybe a CAD rendering, I have been agonizing over her as she gets pushed back in the production cycle, however I completely understand the logic and business sense of doing so - Especially if it allows Chris to lead this venture full time! We need to send a message to all manufacturers out there by supporting VM in these efforts and they will have to step up into the 21st century as well......maybe.....🙂
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Peter, I googled this wood supplier in Sydney, they say that Pear is “coming soon” but they seem to carry a wood that I have used in place of pear - it has tight grain, is similar in color, mills and finishes very well and is much cheaper per board foot. It is called Makore - here is their web address: https://www.masterwoodturning.com.au/joinery-species-qmq.html hope that helps a little? Also I think Myrtle is indigenous to Australia and it would be a wonderful substitute for pear wood.....
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Jason, I always look forward to your updates, there just are not enough superlatives to compliment your efforts. Definitely one of my inspirational models.... Just consistently awesome execution!
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Real Ships or Furniture?
ASAT replied to Bill Jackson's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Hi Bill, I’m pretty sure around here you will find all types, I’ve seen it posted quite a few times that “you’re the captain, do what you want” personally, I like to use exotic woods instead of paint and I’m not too concerned if my results aren’t historically accurate. I like my models to be more of a artsy centerpiece than an exact representation of what it may have looked like. I do think that historical accuracy is valued more on MSW though, but most of us respect the vision of the builder. That’s just my observation and I do not speak with any authority about MSW. You could start a build log or do you have any pictures of your galleon to share? They really do speak 1000 words and will most likely generate a few responses..... hope that helps? Lou -
OK, hey - ridicule! I guess we are right up there with Facebook, Twitter and the like......
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Matt, I’ve always used balsa for filler blocks as it sands easy and there is less chance of altering the bulkhead shape if you use a harder wood - it lets you use the bulkheads as a guide and shapes so readily. As far as the deck I usually make a false deck from some 1/64 or 1/32 ply if the kit didn’t come with one - that way you can lay out all the grates and deck furnishings on it and configure your planking plan on it.....
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Chuck, are you planning on providing the spiling templates too? 😀 There is too much variation in each model to do that realistically isn’t there? These tick strips are an awesome idea though - especially for the belt layouts, I have a hard time getting them to flow correctly with equal spacing... This will be great as I am a visual learner and if I see it done right I can usually get the hang of it.....
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Great idea! They will still be discernible after fairing and sanding in the areas. Your numerals remind me of my father in law, he was a German from Hamburg and emigrated back in the 60’s - that little “tail” on the number 1 is distinctly German, as well as precise and meticulous work, we built a few airplanes together- Lancair IV-P’s.
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Beckmann, did you not transfer the sills and lintels framing guide lines onto the bulkheads? Or are they on the other side? 😯
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Chuck, what do you think of using MDF for the keel and bulkheads? I know Amati has been using it for some time now even on the Vanguard which is a sizable model. I was planning on veneering in some thin pear where the gunport framing is on the bulkheads and framing sills and lintels in pear anyway. Do you know if they are using a special type or do you think the 1/4” stuff at Home Depot would be OK? Wondering if would hold up to fairing and stay true.......Just thinking outside a bit, and it’s local plus cheap!
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Is the kerf wide or short? If you sand the pieces to 90 degrees will they be too small? I hope it works - I have access to a USAF base too!! Didn’t think of the Craft Center!!
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Chuck - I know you’re past that point but do you think you could make a video of shaping one of those gunport planks that are recessed and also have the beveled/angled portions? You and Mike both make that level of precision look easy but I’m having a hard time visualizing it.....
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So You’re saying it won’t be too long before Chuck and Mike are returning that compliment? 😄 I may just have to wait to start so I can get some schooling from your diverse experience..... Looks like there’s going to be a plethora of talent to emulate in this venture!!
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Well..... he is for his build, and he’s probably milling all those sheets for his laser kits..... 😎
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Fillers for bulkheads
ASAT replied to legend's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I’ve always used balsa wood to fill between bulkheads - carves and sands easy and softer than the bulkheads so you don’t over fair..... -
Thanks Mike, that’s perfectly clear now, what a great technique using various sanding shapes and raising the work to get the 90degree edge. I had heard of the light box but forgot about it☺️, just what I needed to overcome the confidence barrier.... This is what is great about MSW and this whole project, making the inconceivable possible!
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Mike, I signed up for a scratch build of Winnie and I was just wondering if you could outline how you made the gammoning knee and extension? I’m using pear so no laser kits for me, They look so small, scroll saw or mill and describe the fitting process? Looks like a pretty big hurdle.... you aced it btw.....
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No I meant a plans sheet if we wanted to cut our own.....
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Hi Chuck, I have been perusing the plans and monograph, I noticed the bollard uprights are not on the 1/4” thick first installment sheet, the chock is though? Also is it necessary to use a hardwood for the gunport framing? Am I wrong that all we will see of that framing is going to be painted? Wondering if basswood will be ok there or does a harder wood take the paint better? Sorry but I haven’t used paint much on previous models...... I’m probably missing something. And also, are you going to provide a sheet for the gunport framing uprights that are all the different angles? I can see how they would ease some of the pain of that framing 😄 thanks in advance..... Lou
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I have the plans, instructions and fittings to do a scratchbuild from Amati, and I have seen the plans and instruction book from Caldercraft- imho the fittings,castings and weaponry from Caldercraft are superior as well as the design of the fo’c’sle, bulwarks and mortar housings. Everything else is pretty much the same - can’t speak to the wood quality as I use my own..... hope that helps
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