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ASAT

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Everything posted by ASAT

  1. ASAT
    Kevin, do you still have to mill the slots and notches for the beams and carlines in the kit provided framing beams? Is an accurate mill setup (tooling) required for this build?
  2. ASAT
    That looks great Z... knew you could do it! Just remember on harder woods you create more heat so a little more offset at the back of the fence helps.....
  3. ASAT
    What a great solution to a lot of work and wood thrown away learning how to do it right! I think I may have to follow in your footsteps, I was wondering how I could replicate those spur beams and keep all those carlings (carlines?) in alignment.....have you asked Tom if you can get replacement decks? Or is it pretty much one of the sub kits? Lou
  4. ASAT
    Any more progress? Lou
  5. ASAT
    Well - it seems we all strive to please the Admiralty....
  6. ASAT
    Much improved effort all around Kevin, Wow! that could be a great selling advert for Proxxon! (But you still had to drive it, so kudo's to you for perseverance as well!)
  7. ASAT
    Glenn, that looks great to me...primer alone is just fine, especially in the relatively protective environment of a scale model.... a top coat has a bit more hardness than primer but primer will be plenty durable .... I like the result you have achieved.
  8. ASAT
    What? ...😳??
  9. ASAT
    I’ve decided to dive in to POF with both feet.... I ordered the CAF Enterprise and Le Coureur, I plan to build the Le Coureur pretty much as designed but the Enterprise I hope to build using the upright method utilizing the Ed Tosti Naiad books as a construction guide. Get going on your build log James, I plan to use your log as a guide for L.C. 😀 Lou
  10. ASAT
    Hey! At least my dog is from the same country...!
  11. ASAT
    Looks great Kevin - are you going to trenail every frame on that lower deck?
  12. ASAT
    Pretty sure there isn’t a POF in the works for quite a while.... the Sphinx is POB for sure, from the gun deck up its stick built - but not POF..... I think.....
  13. ASAT
    I don’t think there has ever been a Portland Class ship kitted?? 😀
  14. ASAT
    I guess RHIP at MSW too huh Jeff? Moderator privilege pffft!! - you should get on your knees and beg forgiveness for the years of exclusivity and exorbitant pay that you have received just for being a Moderator at MSW!! 🤑 😂 😂
  15. ASAT
    Must be a great kit, already Sold Out! And before I could get one ordered... Doug did the ships boat and the Barrels, boxes and sailors mini kits come with your kit?
  16. ASAT
    Bristol? 😲 Squirrel!! Just kiddin' Guns look great Chris will the carronade elevation screws be cast or brass? The photoetch accoutrements look so much better than traditional items...
  17. ASAT
    Yeah, I have made several shapes of sanders from wood also, but I found that as you move to the fwd cants and even the stern its hard to keep your block across two or three frames at a time, unless you make lots of different radiused blocks- the foam will conform and I find its easier to control the amount of material removed - YMMV...
  18. ASAT
    James, I found that some 1.9lb EPP foam (like computer, electronics shipping protection) the really stiff stuff works a treat as a sanding block - easily shaped with a serrated knife, and provides enough stiffness but still conforms to a concave, curved shape. Depending on what part of the hull you are fairing, you need various shaped blocks..... I have also wanted to try these : https://woodworker.com/soft-contour-hand-sanders-mssu-150-362.asp?GF=150-362
  19. ASAT
    rule #5: talk to the wood, apologize for the pain you are incurring to it’s essence, carefully collect and bury the dust created from the cut.
  20. ASAT
    Yeah I don’t use a push stick - first I set a “bit” of offset clearance on the far end of the fence, I use my left hand to push the billet Down onto the table and also into the fence (fence is on the right side of blade), and my right hand (fingers) to push the billet into the blade path, as your billet gets close to the end of the cut I move my right hand around to the back of the saw and pull the piece you are cutting the rest of the way through the cut. Have you seen this user guide? https://modelshipworld.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=471844
  21. ASAT
    What are the dimensions and type of wood billet you are starting with? The process is you use a larger saw to create a smaller billet down to say 3/8 to 1/2” thick, then move to the jimsaw and cut 1mm thick planks off of it (so now they are 3/8” ish x 1mm thick strips) and then take those planks and run them through again making 1x1mm strips .... hope that helps....
  22. ASAT
    EJ, your stern cabin framing and galleries are orders of magnitude better than those horrible metal/brass fittings! Wonderful solution!!
  23. ASAT
    Huh? I was encouraged by your first post, “ hey, a guy like me! finally gonna get some insight into a TTFM build” but then you have done a ton of stuff and I don’t know how you got there? Could you point me to a link of the Oneida blog you refer to (2014)? I have one of those stalled midway also, maybe I could return to that as well with renewed enthusiasm.... 😀. Lou
  24. ASAT
    Hi Mike, from my understanding the level differences of the kit is the consistency of the color/grain matching of the wood used in the billets? Tankerman posted this in the Review of this kit when the same question was asked.... The specifications of HMS enterprise are B and C B. C material: cherry and maple B. CWood carving: Boxwood B. CMetal parts: Brass B: window: Bovine bone 😄 window:Boxwood B has less wood color difference C is in stock, B needs to book (I need to select timber) the estimated processing time is 3-4 weeks I hope this helps, Chris I think the above should read: B. and C. material: etc, etc, so they are the same except for transom lights material and wood color and grain... I think... Lou
  25. ASAT
    I believe those lines are to achieve the correct frame bevel? I am asking about frame alignment and not being able to fair them with a long sanding bar. Remove the offending frames and re position? The jig only ensure that a few frames are In alignment- eyeball the rest?

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