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Everything posted by fnick
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HMS Alert 1777 by Jaekon Lee - 1/64
fnick replied to Jaekon Lee's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Hi Lee This is one beautiful build. It was extremely encouraging to read that the only power tool you use is a mini drill. If you dont mind me asking what hand tools do you use? Nick -
Hi Jonny First of all just want to say you live in a nice part of the world! Secondly you're doing a great job of this model. I also agree with Jason. I would fix it now. Otherwise I can garantee you one thing: it WILL bug you knowing you could have done a better fix. Trust me. I was in the same situation with Le Mirage. Made a booboo, thought I'd leave it as it was. However changed my mind and fixed the problem and I was really glad I did. You did a pretty good job of the bowsprit before the accident so no reason why you can't do it again! Well that's my two pennies worth anyway... Good luck whatever you choose to do. Nick
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- convulsion
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Gaetan C'est Magnifique! (It's Magnificent!). Nick
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- le fleuron
- 64 gun
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Hi guys I knew MSW would not let me down! . At least I know now. That probably means the danish oil is back on but I may have a play with scraping part of the wood/tiny needles etc to get an idea as to how strong the bond will be. Couple that with the wire idea and it should be strong enough. I dont intend on submitting the model to earthquake tremors anyway . Thanks again Nick
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Evening all In despair I turn to the collective wealth of knowledge of MSW! Although I dont need an answer for probably quite a while at the rate I am going, here's a question for you more knowledgeable people than me: I would like to have a low sheen finish for my model but would like something that can take wood glue. Does such a finish exist? Originally I was wanting (and may still do) to use Danish oil because I love the low sheen finish it has and the warmth and depth it gives the wood. However one major drawback is that wood glue doesnt work on surfaces treated with danish oil and ideally I would like to be able to apply the finish as I go along. I have read it is possible to scrape the surface of oil treated wood so that wood glue can adhere to it but is that true and how strong will the glue bond be? I know lots of people use minwax wipe on poly. Can you use glue on treated wood? If you can answer this then you will have my eternal gratitude (now there's an incentive if I ever saw one! Ta very much Nick
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Stunning work as always. And thanks very much for your answer. Nick
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- sloop
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Hi Remco First of all jaw dropping build. :im Not Worthy: Secondly I am very interested in your opinion about finishes and I have a few questions if you dont mind... Is there a bit of a sheen when using tung oil with white spirit or does dead flat finish mean no sheen? Also can you mix a reasonably large amount of tung oil and white spirit in one go or do you need to use it fairly quickly once you have done so? And finally (honest! ) can you still use wood glue on sections that have been finished in this way? I was certain I wanted to use danish oil as I really like the finish but one thing that is putting me off is the fact that you cannot easily use wood glue once you have applied it. Thanks in advance. Nick
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Very nice work Sjors! Keep it up. You know it's worth it in the end when you say to yourself: "I did that". (Just don't go asking "why?" ) Nick
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- caldercraft
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Absolutely majestic Ed. I will be a happy modeller if I can get to 10% of your capabilities! Wonderful work. Nick
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- young america
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Thanks for the explanation. Have a merry christmas! nick
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- bonhomme richard
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Absolutely stunning work. Something to aspire to. One small (maybe daft ) question... Why is there what looks like a dried out snake in the open barrel in pictures 4 and 5? Nick
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- bonhomme richard
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Hey Sjors and Nigel! Thanks for the feedback guys. You're absolutely right Sjors. In fact it's going to be non-existent!! Think Nigel may be onto something here... A couple of photos to explain... So here I've drawn the planks as Nigel suggested. They are a lot wider especially compared to the planks above (as in if the ship was the right way up) however, turn the ship the right way up... and voila! Actually doesn't look bad at all (well apart from my uneven unsanded second planking ). I think I may even try to do those drawn planks first just to make sure it does look ok before carrying with the rest of the planking. Thanks a lot again guys (Don't you just LOVE MSW!! :) ) Nick
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Evening all Small update. Think I've not got the garboard quite correct . You can see on the picture below what I mean. The distance between the planks narrows and then expands again just before arrive at the bow. For me it just doesnt look right... Here's a close up. The arrow shows a bulge in the end plank on the second row that shouldnt be there and is part of the problem. However I also think the garboard plank needs to extend a little bit and also not curve that much. That is what I am trying to show with the line. (not that clear but drawing with the mouse is not one of my strong points! ). I know you have to be careful with the garboard in not letting it rise too much otherwise that causes a bunching up of the planks above but I think I have gone too far the other wayat the moment! I'm hoping to only remove the three end planks.... Nick
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Great job Sjors! Looks like you're ready to open your own museum there :D So when the Augie is finished in a couple of days what's next? The dark side? How about 1:48 scratch build Victory? That will slow you down! Nick
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Hi Jack Thank you for your response. No need to apologise for confusing me... It's easily done! . I've seen your post showing the oil you use. I will have to see if I can get something similar in the UK. In any case I have tried the danish oil on a sample and I am very happy with the results so even if I can't find the oil you use you've still helped me in finding a finish I like! Nick .
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Fantastic planking Rusty. Couldnt agree more. It just looks soooooo much better this way. One thing I am struggling with a little bit is getting a smooth curve on the curved planks. Any pointers you'd like to share? or is it just a question of experience. I am using walnut mind you and it's not the easiest of woods to cut (well that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it :D ). Nick
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Can i live without a BYRNES TABLE SAW
fnick replied to shihawk's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
a French comedian (can't remember which one) said "You never grow up. It's just the price of the toys that changes. " How true. Nick -
Hi all Thanks for the likes! Nigel: Thanks for the feedback. Good to know I'm on the right track. Cutting planks from sheet isn't that bad especially since I've taken a leaf out of your book (or your build log more specifically ) and have started using a scalpel. Much sharper and much easier than the X-Acto knife. Sjors: Thanks for your comment. Too kind. Yes updates are slow. Too much to do during the day... I dont know who invented work but I think I need to have words... Nick
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Evening all Time for a small long overdue update... I've finished the garboard plank and the next line of planking after that. Looks ok to my untrained eye. As always feedback welcome. Here's the photos: Can be useful to take photos. Wouldnt have noticed the gap below otherwise! :blush: I'll work my way down now (from the ship's point of view) from bow to stern. That way the last plank to be glued which I wont be able to pin will be flat. Thanks for looking Nick
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