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Everything posted by keelhauled
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HI everyone, It occurred to me that since I'm in the sail rigging phase of the ship that you might be interested in the rigging plan. I made the plan by using Campbell's rigging plans. He details which lines go through the fairleads on the shrouds, which essentially tells you which belaying pins are used for those lines. Between that info and the info he provides in the sail plan, probably 70% of the lines are taken care of. I used Longridg, photos of the cutty, and the Underhill's book on rigging to fill in any missing info. While searching the web, I came across a site that has belaying plans for the Cutty created by Jan Gilbrich http://www.jans-sajt.se/contents/Navigation/Modelling/Belayings_Collection.htm. I checked the plans that I created independently using Campbell, Longridge, underhill and cutty photos against Jan's site and the plans are almost identical. I'd highly recommend the site. http://www.jans-sajt.se/ I'll try to scan my hand drawn plans into the computer and post my version this weekend. Also photos of the work on the foremast upper and lower top sails. Best Marc
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Hi Vossy, you can actually get primaries and secondaries as single pigments as well. black (black often has blue toner added to keep the carbon black from being a little on the red (brown) side. For example, you can get several single pigment brown pigments made from different oxidation states of Iron as a single pigment. These range from almost red through a deep brown (Can you tell I love pigments and dyes?)😊 Antonio, I'm sure that the wax and plastic versions will help. best!! Marc
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I'm not really familiar with Vallejo, but I've worked professionally on ink and paint formulations as a chemist. Vossiewulf's correct, although it isn't actually mass spectroscopy the thought is correct. It's actually chromatography - a chemist technique for separating out chemicals and was used early in the 20th century by forensic chemists to separate out inks into their individual dye components using essentially a solvent wicking up a sheet of paper. Then using the results to identify the ink/pen. It sounds like the paper towel and solvent is actually acting to separate the paint into its components. There is numerous ways to make a brown hue. One is by mixing red and green (or blue and yellow to make the green or adjust the color brown) pigments or dyes. I agree with Mark about the wax paper, it should help. There are drying retarders that can be used to slow acrylic paints. However, acrylic is just fast drying, especially if it is being diluted by water. I don't know what you are painting, but if you need a slow drying paint, oils are an excellent option. Just never use turps to dilute the oil, use one of the oils. Diluting with terps will actually separate out the pigments from the oil and can cause chalking and other issues. Best, marc
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Sounds exciting!!! 😉 I can't wait to see how it goes!
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Dave, Now that you have the course yards rigged with the stunsul booms, how wide is the model? Thanks marc
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very nice place to present the ships! Marc
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Hi Mike, I don't know for your particular ship, but typically the if one gun deck is red, the bulwarks on all gun decks are red. Of course there are always exceptions. The orlop is sometimes red or white, depending upon the ship (I think that I've seen more with white than red). I guess it is because there is less blood being splashed on the bulwarks on the orlop deck? good luck Marc
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Thanks Dennis. I really appreciate the feedback and support!! Marc
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Hi etubino, thanks for the complement and taking a look at my build! best Marc Hi everyone, I'd like to point out that black and white photos of the Cutty's boats/skids in etubino's post above quoting my post, above belong to and are copyrighted by Lou van Wijhelong. I had downloaded them from google where someone had striped his watermark. My apologies Lou. Best Marc
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Harry, very nice work on the ships! you have a lot going on. Thanks for sharing! Enjoy your summer - try to stay cool and watch that sun exposure! cheers Marc
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Cutty Sark by NenadM
keelhauled replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Happy New Year! Nice work. Looks great! much to be happy about😊 best marc- 4,145 replies
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Hi Harry, nice build. Love the lights. I'm glad that you revived the build. Can't wait to see the next steps!! best Marc
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Cutty Sark by NenadM
keelhauled replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Nead, looking good! very detailed work on a small scale. I look forward to the next steps!!- 4,145 replies
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Thanks Harry and Nenad, Hope you guys are doing well. Harry, I am jealous that you'll be the first to see the new year as well as your scenery. Just got back from Melbourne before Christmas, the weather was beautiful - the real heat hadn't hit yet. Do you guys have typically cooler temps than Melbourne? Harry, The coverings were made using cotton fabric. I didn't do anything special to them. The cloth contoured to the boats really nicely without having to use diluted glue or some other agent. Do you have a build log going for your ship? send me the link or post it here. I couldn't find it. thanks marc
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Weekend (plus a few days) update! Working on the boat skids Here are some reference photos. Note the differences in the canvas covers. I'll post the photos that I took of the cover in 1990. I don't have them digitally right now, so I'm post them later. She now has different covers which you can see in the photos that I took in October 2018. My original post had some place holder photos of the Cutty's boats/skids that I downloaded from the web. In the original post I had stated that they were from the web, but unknown to me, the photos had their copyright watermark removed by someone. I'd like to make sure that the owner has credit. The photos were copyrighted by Lou van Wijhelong My apologies Lou. As the boats appeared in 2018 So here are the hooks that I made for the inboard sides. For scale reference, each square of the grid is a half inch (1.625 cm) And my attempt at simulating the hardware on the skids And finally with in place with the boats on the skids. I still have to rig the boats to the skids. Thanks for looking!! Happy New Year! Marc
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Thanks Dennis. I think that we just have to remember that the ship evolved and changed when she was in service. Likewise when they "restore" these museum ships they constantly change. There are numerous examples. The storage of and the number of boats stowed on deck is one example, another is the arrangement and methods of the canvass covers for those boats. best Marc
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Hi Chuck, I agree with you. From everything I've read it would be stowed inboard with the barrel elevated and made fast to the bolt and muzzle against the hull as in the diagram in my earlier post. however, I thought Dave might like to see the breech rope actually rigged as in his drawing. I think that if you don't want to rig the tackle, then it might be a nice alternative for adding some detail. Marc
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I should have been more clear. The stowed gun doesn't have the barrel running through the hull/bulwark. The attached image of the constitution's gun has a reference to this method at the top of the image showing the muzzle up against the hull and the made fast to the ring above. If you need a better image of this, let me know and I'll take a picture from one of the books best marc
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I've seen some ships with the guns secured parallel to the side (fore/aft facing). If you look at books for seamanship during the 1700s and 1800s stowed guns on navel ships have the gun tilted all the way up and brought all the way forward and secured up against the hull with the breeching rope as you show. The period books on seamanship written for midshipmen are great references for how the ships and equipment were operated - including how to stow equipment and even how to step new masts while at sea. Marc
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I think it depends upon how many men it takes to work the line when the line is at its shortest length - when the sails or not set. It would also depend upon which line. Fore example the courses have very long tacks and sheets to accommodate the long runs to the fore and aft sheaves, blocks, winches and even capstan.
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paintings and old photos are other good reference sources. Each sail also have operating ranges for wind speeds. direction of the wind also dictates which sails are set. Clippers would sometimes have their main and mizzen courses clewed or furled with the fore course set when close hauled. It's my understanding that it had to do with balancing the driver. You can find old photos and painting reflecting this set with the top sails set.
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