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keelhauled

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  1. keelhauled
    Hi Nenad, Happy Birthday! I'm so sorry about Adrian. My thoughts and prayers are with you and your family. My best wishes for you Marc
  2. keelhauled
    Harry, thank you for adding valuable insight and advice! You are always welcome to join in the conversation!!!! much appreciated. I also have many days when I walk into the shop, look at the ship and walk back out. Charlie, I have several rules, which include never work when your tired. I've worked a few minutes too long and in an instant caused damage that required hours to fix. No long sleeves. I always have some object (chair, table, whatever) preventing me from clipping the bowsprit when I move around the ship. I use a lazy during parts of the build and have the table marked and other markers to ensure that the ship can rotate without the bowsprit striking an object (i have a block wall that always seems to be reaching out to the bowsprit). Always wear safety glasses whenever you use power saws, dremels, etc. I also have a rule for my wife: not to disturb me if a power tool is on or If my hands are near the ship. A startle is dangerous for either the ship or my hands. I don't want to damage either! Best, Marc
  3. keelhauled
    Hi Nenad, I'm all caught up! life got in the way for a couple of months😡 Very nice work on the pumps and rails! always such attention to detail. I tried looking into the rails a couple of years ago without success. Some drawings have two rails at both the mainmast and foremast. I've also seen photos with a rail matching the aft main rail behind the foremast (fore all I know it could be the rail relocated from the main to the fore mast). I will say now that I've rigged the foremast, I don't know how you could attach all of the lines running aft of the fore mast to just the spider band pins if you have it fully rigged. In fact I found that I was missing 6 lines when I was planning the rigging -I came across some references to trip lines for the staysails Along with the downhauls you would be looking at 9 lines sitting on two to three pins. My thought is that the 2nd foremast pin rail was removed when the masts were cut down and the sky sail and all studding sails were removed. It would also explain why there seems to be differences in rigging plans where many of the lines are routed to the bulwark pin rails. As to the single sheave in the round aft pin rail - I agree with Wood Hacker.😄 I was asking the same question. However, unlike the foremast, when I rigged the foremast aft pin rail I only had one large line that would benefit from the sheave. Maybe that is the answer? I could also be full of crap.🙄 best, marc
  4. keelhauled
    Nenad, You keep me inspired, both in modeling and in life!!! thank you my friend! Marc
  5. keelhauled
    Hi Charlie, sorry for the late reply... check out these books. They were helpful to me. Historic Ship Models by Wolfram Zu Mondfeld ship Modeling from Stem to Stern by Roth Ship Modeling simplified by Mastini Ship Models from Kits by Colin Riches Nenad has a terrific build log for the Cutty. His ship is for all purposes is scratch built. Harry (hoff00) has an awesome version of the kit build
  6. keelhauled
    Hi Charlie Thanks for the kind comments. First, i would suggest getting the books i mention in previous posts as well as cambell's plans. For planking, i would follow Chucks tutorial on the subject. There are also several good books on the subject that I'll try to post later today. Also search this site for the topics you need info on. The book of directions that came with the book were terrible and would actually paint you into a corner. The plans were better, but not great. In fact, early on stopped using them and only worked off of campbells plans. This model and rigging is pretty ambitious for a first model. You will have thousands of hours in building and research. If that still sounds exciting i would recommend buying and building a beginner or entry level plank on frame model from model shipways or Artesanía Latina. They have good directions. I'd stay away from Mamoli, mantua, or most other european companies for a first build, the directions are sometimes in broken english or so packed together on the plans that it is difficult to follow. Building an entry level plank on frame (bulkhead) model with good plans will help understand what has to be done on any plank on frame model and will develop your skills. Message me for help when you need it and start a build log and ask for help when you need it. Best Marc
  7. keelhauled
    Hi, Wasn't aware of the difference in crane heights on the Victory, but I haven't started the build yet. Not sure why the difference. I have seen the hammocks folded in the shape of a "U" in the cranes, but I'm not sure of the accuracy; however, that would address how the hammocks were stored in the shorter cranes. I can't imagine that they would allow the hammocks to protrude much on an actual ship, since they would need to be covered to protect the hammocks from spray and rain (no one likes a wet bed 😊) best, Marc
  8. keelhauled
    Hi Denis, Lou, and Harry! thanks for the complements and feedback. Much appreciated!! I'm working on the t'gallent sail now. Will post the progress next weekend. Best Marc
  9. keelhauled
    Hi Tasmanian, For rigging plans, I'd use Campbell's plans. They can be purchased in person at the Cutty Sark's shop or online at https://shop.rmg.co.uk/collections/prints The sail and rigging plans are 5 pounds and the general plan is 8 pounds. For info on how to post go here: https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/forum/47-questionsinstructions-on-how-to-use-and-post-to-this-forumsite-problems-or-suggestions/ Best Marc
  10. keelhauled
    You're a very fast builder! Very nice work!!! Looking forward to following your progress! Regarding Drilling holes on the spars; if you create an indentation where you want to drill, It will make it a great deal easier. The drill will slide into the indentation instead of wandering across the round surface. If you don't use a punch or awl or some tool to make the indentation, your drill bit may still wander (if it is a small bit) even using a drill press. Also another tip is to drill from one side but stop about half way, turn the dowel to the opposite side where you want the hole to exit and start drilling from this side. The bit will shift in the shaft such that it comes out the first hole. If you only drill from one side (not using a drill press) you most likely will not come through the other side exactly centered. best marc
  11. keelhauled
    Looking good. Nice scratch building. You are making fast work of the build ☺️
  12. keelhauled
    Great start! I look forward to following the build best marc
  13. keelhauled
    Looking good! Keep up the fine work! best Marc
  14. keelhauled
    amazing work!!
  15. keelhauled
    Much wisdom expressed here by you two. Life is rich if we allow it to be so.
  16. keelhauled
    I LOVE Those lights!!!!!!! very nice work. I'm so happy that you fixed the issue. The lights really push the effect over the top! Best marc
  17. keelhauled
    Congratulations!!! The joys of life!!! Always cherish your time together. The cutty will always wait!😊 Best Marc
  18. keelhauled
    Hi everyone, I've been working on attaching the upper and lower topsails/yards to the mast and rigging their running lines. For each sail, It took me about 20 hours to attach the lines lift the yard and rig the lines. (combination of slowness and rerunning lines to ensure free running). After rigging the upper topsail it occurred to me that the sheets need to be shortened. Stupid oversight that the sheets are fixed and thus the tightness/looseness of the sheets is a result of the height of the yard. I fixed the issue but don't have photos yet. Here is a view from the front. Also you can see that the masts are perfectly aligned vertically. upper topsail sheets. These are fixed at the top. they don't look as good as this magnification, but it was the best I could do especially with the sails rigged as they are. A shot of the saddle truss and iron saddle strap. Of course my version of the iron saddle strap is made from copper, but once it is painted it will look fine. The truss isn't perfect, but considering they will be hard to view with all of the lines running along and behind the mast. I made the saddle strap so that the yard can be placed into position on the mast and the saddle strap will "lock" into the saddle truss and then can be glued to permanently secure the two parts together. Fairleads are starting to fill up. Rigging the lines to the pins is a real pain with the course set and braced over as far as it it. Close hauled is a pain. thanks for looking ! Marc
  19. keelhauled
    Hi, I just came back across this topic. I know my post isn't timely for this discussion, but maybe it can help someone with the same questions. In the past year I've come across the subject of tacks, sheets, tail ropes as they are used on courses in reading the fictional Aubrey novels, Longridge's Cutty Sark book (page 141) as well as others. I would just point out that I've come across references where the tacks, and sheets were detached and reattached to the courses during tacking. They run the tack line and sheet as required for that ships tack and wind to stay out of the way of the sailors going up the rigging and interfering with other lines. Also Longridge states that the sheets and tacks would usually not be attached to that same (port, starboard)clew iron at the same time with the course set. Might not apply to the Victory, but if so, maybe it throws more insight into the inconsistencies as to how they are being run through the rigging. just a thought. Marc
  20. keelhauled
    Hi Lou, thank you for helping us to understand Campbell's plans and the background. Much appreciated! Best Marc
  21. keelhauled
    Hi Mojofilter, If I can help fill in info on the Campbell plans that are broken, missing on your set, let me know. If had a couple of folks ask me "what does it say here" or "what size blocks are identified there", etc. Happy to help. Best Marc
  22. keelhauled
    Hi Harry, G.F Campbell created a set of three plans which have been available through the Cutty Sark's gift shop for at least the past 28 years. When I bought mine, they offered to stamp the plans with the ships original seal. Campbell was a navel architect that as I understand it was commissioned to draw plans during the 1st half of the 20th century. Campbell also wrote a couple books on clippers. Lou, if you are following, perhaps you can give us some info. as this is a shot from my set of plans. The plans are available from the website below. The sail and rigging images are from the Cutty's shop website (link below) I've purchased two sets of plans over the years, one set in 1990 another in 2003. The quality of the 2003 set was much lower than the 1990 set, which was very crisp and clear. The 2003 set looked like copies of copies. I recently was at the Cutty back in June and looked at the set for sale (which at that time only 2 out of the 3 plans were available). The quality of the 2017 set was significantly better than the 2003 set. They can be purchased in person at the ship's shop or online at https://shop.rmg.co.uk/collections/prints The sail and rigging plans are 5 pounds and the general plan is 8 pounds I don't know if these plans are the same as the Cutty Sark preservation Society plans. From best I can find the Cutty Sark Presevation Society became the Cutty Sark Trust both under Prince Phillip. I have a couple of reports that the Trust put out concerning the plans for restoration. Sometime between the restoration work starting on the Cutty and now, the Trust website redirected to the Royal Museums Greenwich site. I'm sure someone can tell us what happened. Maybe the Trust became a part of the RMG? Any way, I've tried to search for plans from the Cutty Sark preservation society using google, without success. So I can't answer your question about whether they are the same plans. Longridge's plans are as they were when he visited the ship as she was being used as a cadet training ship. She still retained major changes to the ship including a different fore castle and monkey poop/liverpool house with an aft entry and a completely different forward entry (both are retained to this day). Campbell's plans are supposed to be "as built" but we know that isn't true, because it includes the crew deckhouse. However, they are the best plans I've seen. Don't know if this helps, but at least you can see the thumbnail images of the plans of Campbell's plans for comparision. thanks Marc
  23. keelhauled
    Hi Harry, I'm excited to see some night shots of the LEDs Also looking forward to watch the woodworking! best Marc
  24. keelhauled
    very cool Nenad ! What was your inspiration? To me, it looks like something Duke Leto II should be using on Arrakis to get around the planet ☺️
  25. keelhauled
    Hi everyone, I had issues with my scanner, so I had to take photos of my belaying plan. The ship is split between the fore mast and main mast to fit the ship onto the paper that I had. I made a reference point indicated by the letter "A" with a circle around it on both sections of the deck plan so that you can easily see where the two plans come together. I don't claim that this plan is correct, but it's the best I could come up with using Campbell, Longridge, underhill and cutty photos. I also went back and compared it against Jan's and may have made adjustments. You can see that I've made some adjustments along the way when I found better info or found that some points would never work if the stunsuls were set or some other conflict with Campbell's rigging plans. Also you will see that I'm using tails lines as indicated by Longridge page 141 when the ship is sailing close to the wind (wind from forward of the beam) with the course yards braced hard. Also, you'll notice that I only wrote out the lines on either port (P) or starboard (S) and usually indicated that the line was either for port (P) or starboard (S) as well as the side indicated. You'll also see a symbol of a circle with a "V" on its side connected to the circle and often connecting lines together. This symbol indicates that fairleads on the shrouds are used for these lines as indicated on Campbell's plans. Edit - I was checking the location of the royal sheets for the fore sail and comparing where I had it located vs newer photos and Jan Gilbrich's pin layout and noticed an error on my plans. For some reason, I erroneously switched the Course clew and Course lift belaying positions on my plans as they appear below. You should switch the Course Clew and Course Lift for the fore and main pins. -sorry Marc Sorry this isn't neater. I never thought I'd be sharing it with anyone. I'll post some photos of the ship this weekend. Last weekend just got too busy (sorry) best Marc

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