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kruginmi

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Everything posted by kruginmi

  1. kruginmi
    I still would ask that you give some progress shots. New year, new wood, new skills. Glad to see you hadn't dropped off the Earth and the drive is still there. Great story on your grandpa. I am sure his reaction was fantastic. Say thank you for his service (especially in torpedo bombers!). Mark
  2. kruginmi
    I love seeing these type of subjects. I will definitely be following along. Mark
  3. kruginmi
    So many plans, so little time.....I finally forced myself into the workshop in a little break (who needs sleep) to accomplish something. This something was to start the rigging. I have attached the jeer block with a served double strop. As usual, the black on black on black tends to obscure all that hard work, but I know it is there (we won't mention the sail that will eventually obscure most everything else): Pretty proud of that. I also was able to get the two sections of line served for the quarter blocks: Hoping for tomorrow to get both of those also set up (no promises). Stay Building My Friends, Mark
  4. kruginmi
    You seemed motivated going into 2016. I try not to compare to my progress! Looking great Mark
  5. kruginmi
    While we are on the subject of improvements......your workspace is WAY too clean. If my wife was to catch a look she would draw an obvious comparison to my space (with me on the negative side). Please, throw some random tools / wood / clamps around for my sake (at least when taking pictures). Humbly, Mark
  6. kruginmi
    Since I am the source of the 'issue' I feel I must respond. As always, the ultimate decision is yours being the captain. My input would be to leave the foremast alone. Maybe look at trying to trim some of the nubs closer (if possible). The foremast will be consistent to itself. Once you add all the running and standing rigging I doubt if 99% of anyone looking at the ship would even notice the difference. Even if they do, you can just talk about evolution of a ship modeler and leave it at that. Sorry about the incident. These shrouds are your line in the sand. Keep at it, the result will be / is fantastic. Mark
  7. kruginmi
    John, you are very kind. I still do smile when I walk past the model in my house. Funny thing is revisiting this build album. There are several pics where I am left scratching my head and trying to remember how I did that - hah hah. As I tell visitors, it wasn't a build of a ship - it was hundreds of builds of hundreds of items that put together, made a ship. Looking forward to what tomorrow will bring. mark
  8. kruginmi
    Wow, Patrick. Great progress. Love your innovative approach for building. Happy New Year, Mark
  9. kruginmi
    Yes, John for the Magnus Hitch I was referring to both ends should end up on the inside (if you have the Ashley book of Knots, my go to source, it is #1736). I am coming up on my first true set of ratlines. Looking forward to the challenge! Probably be hitting you up for some sage advice when I am under way. Also a safe and prosperous New Year to you and your family. Mark As for the 'Bama remark, I am a Univ of Mich Alum so we had some gator for dinner. I do wish the MSU game was closer just for better watching but the tide sure rolled in on that one!
  10. kruginmi
    So, did you count how many knots you have done (hah, hah). If you decide to redo the futtock shrouds with smaller thread may I offer a suggestion? Use the smaller thread on the main mast and see how it looks. That way, if you decide to keep it as is you do not have to redo all those knots. As a side note: Are you aware of the magnus hitch? For the ratline ends, it makes the cut off line end point back inwards for a cleaner look. Looks great, shows a lot of dedicated work! Mark
  11. kruginmi
    I can just imagine what you were thinking as it dawned on you what you had. So sorry. Hoping you get it put to right quickly! (and without cost!). I would also be scouring Ebay for partially built / incomplete kits to save $$ and get some extra parts. I wish I could help (I do have 3 Revell full size Constitutions!). Mark
  12. kruginmi
    Thanks Patrick. A little spurt of energy / progress here and there. Probably no tri's this year, focusing on getting this and the other projects in the work shop OUT of the workshop: a case for my Swift, completing my Lady Anne, Billings Boats Regina (wife picked), my Dad's Revell Constitution, restore my Dad's Mayflower, and others. Whew. Might be two years..... I do feel a weight off my shoulders with the paint straightened out and the rigging process (supplies and procedures) straight in my head. Now to get the two other yards ship shape. Mark
  13. kruginmi
    With the painting decisions made it was time to take the plunge. After many trips to the workshop and back for the many coats I am quite pleased with the result. The yellow is quite muted in the photos, seems a little more yellow in person: I intend to keep the outer yards as well as upper masts in the natural wood color as is shown. As a side note, most everything you see can still be disassembled. I also did a raw cutout of the remaining two yard arms which still have to be shaped: Looking forward to serving some strops and trying out this rigging thing. I do have to get back to that hull eventually..... Mark
  14. kruginmi
    With all my tests this is my palette for painting the Druid-X (all wood is basswood): A nice sanding sealer, acrylic paints and then a top coat. I originally chose a satin coat but that proved way too glossy over the paint. The flat looks great, but the camera shot still looks a little shiny. I used both off the shelf 'craft' acrylics and more expensive ones (model colors). I used generally three coats for each. Coverage seemed good for all. I did some light sanding after the applying the sealer. Tomorrow I actually put brush to my mast and main yard arm. Hoping it meets my expectations. Mark
  15. kruginmi
    I have been doing several samples and think I have finally hit upon my solution set for the Druid-X. First off, my palette: I use sanding sealer prior to the acrylic paints, topped off with a top coat. My original thought was a satin top coat, but that proved a no go. I used a flat and that seemed to do the trip, though the camera shot shows it with a more of a gloss than it does. The white will be the lower hull (no copper), black for the wales and yellow for upper hull and lower masts. The red is a darker one that I like (no historical research here, just something I found). Finally, being able to paint the masts and yardarm the next step will be rigging. How will I get those lines nice and served? With my new Serv-O-Matic of course: Tomorrow is them treating the main yard and lower main mast. Mark
  16. kruginmi
    After much thinking, egg nog and input from people, I have come to a decision....(drum roll).... I will be adding blocks affixed directly to the deck beam below the deck using ring bolts for those lines of concern (look at added green and purple annotations): The sheets, brace and two clewlines will incorporate these blocks, which equates to two blocks between each railing section. The single halyard will use a double block with the starboard mainsail clew line (though not present on this build). Happy New Year, Mark
  17. kruginmi
    The rigging plans referenced were prepared for the Smithsonian Institution by Merritt A. Edson, Jr. in 1976. This was for (I believe) a model constructed of the original Brilliant. Mr. Hahn did pull the British drawn conversion plans for his hull model plans and I have no idea if rigging ones also exist. Since it is a Frankenstein ship (a little it of this, a little bit of that) I am not too concerned about exact accuracy, if that is possible at all. This is an exercise in learning all things rigging and how to properly replicate them in scale for me. It is a good mental task to work through all of this stuff and not just accept anything drawn as unquestionable. Mark
  18. kruginmi
    Whoops - clarification. The plans shown are BEFORE the deck was extended so.....the railing ended up once converted by the British to be over the fore end of the cargo hatch shown on the plans (but still same size and shape). It would end just before the right side of the snippet shown. I believe the original questions are still valid. I am opting towards adding sheaves for the clews at the lower end of the stanchions. Mark
  19. kruginmi
    Adding to the mix is that this is a deck 'add on.' The British added it upon purchase of the cargo ship to allow the installation of the capstan. They did add two new vertical supports that go through the cargo hatches directly below that support this rail. I will look at moving the mainsail clew lines or introduction of single sheaves just for their use. As for the belaying pins, the plans were for the US cargo ship as built in 1774. I just assumed they were appropriate for the period. Thanks for all the help! Mark
  20. kruginmi
    Thanks Henry. I somewhat agree however.....I am thinking (maybe my first mistake) that you add the 17 lines all together and it would add up. The plans seem to show nothing special, just use the belaying pins and only the top rail. I just wondered if there was something I was missing. Mark
  21. kruginmi
    For some more of my source data. These are snippets from the Smithsonian plans for the original HMS Brilliant. This is referencing the AFT BREAST RAIL. You can see how small the posts for the rail are. Not even the width of the pin rail on the bulwark, and looks like not even the same thickness. Hard to believe sheaves are stuck to them. There is a little brace on two of the five posts near the base. The sheave illustrated for the kevel (on the bulwark) shows using a sheave is possible. Ho Ho Ho, Mark
  22. kruginmi
    (Pulled this from my build log, seemed a more logical place to ask the question) A future problem to tackle involves the quarter deck rail (pic from full Druid mid-construction): The following lines are connected to this rail: 1. Mainsail clewlines 2. Mainsail buntlines 3. Mainsail Leechlines 4. Topsail Clewlines 5. Topsail reef tackles 6. Topgallant sheets The question is how? Per the plans this rail is not a real 'beefy' one. Tying them all just to the top rail would seem foolhardy given the stresses. Normally you would see some sheaves either attached to, or through the bases of each column but these rails seem too thin for that. At the very least belay pins seem in order (total 16, 4 between each post), but the runs of the lines are in question. With two lines per category (port / starboard) I currently do not have a firm decision. If I was rigging a full ship you would also add: 1. Mainstaysail halyard 2. Mizzen Topsail Bowline 3. Fore Topgallant Brace Any opinions? Mark
  23. kruginmi
    <<this question moved to the rigging forum section of this site>> Even though I have had little time in the shop, the brain neurons keep firing.... A future problem to tackle involves the quarter deck rail (pic from full Druid mid-construction): The following lines are connected to this rail: 1. Mainsail clewlines 2. Mainsail buntlines 3. Mainsail Leechlines 4. Topsail Clewlines 5. Topsail reef tackles 6. Topgallant sheets The question is how? Per the plans this rail is not a real 'beefy' one. Tying them all just to the top rail would seem foolhardy given the stresses. Normally you would see some sheaves either attached to, or through the bases of each column but these rails seem too thin for that. At the very least belay pins seem in order (total 16, 4 between each post), but the runs of the lines are in question. With two lines per category (port / starboard) I currently do not have a firm decision. If I was rigging a full ship you would also add: 1. Mainstaysail halyard 2. Mizzen Topsail Bowline 3. Fore Topgallant Brace Any opinions? Mark
  24. kruginmi
    No, not the 'master.' Just another enthusiast with a similar passion. You haven't seen my waste bin! (or supply of bandages close at hand.....) Mark
  25. kruginmi
    Sounds like you did the right thing by pushing back for a bit. When things go south, they tend to do that in clumps. Hopefully some rest and renewed vigor will go a long way to setting things right (that and another couple of hours working the shrouds!). Sounds like you are doing the right things, so 'endeavor to persevere" (favorite movie quote) You do have quite the beautiful model. Ho Ho Ho, Mark

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