glbarlow

Haven't really used them yet, no rigging or small hands work with where I am on Cheerful. It does look very solid and better than the little extra hands thing I've used for years.

I went for the 4 hands version, I’ve never needed more than 3 plus I thought the 6x9 inch base would fit better on mu bench. I was hesitant until Derek assured me of the strength of the magnets to the base. i need to stop reading these forums, I learn about too many great tools that I can’t resist. Amazon just makes it all too easy.

😂🤣

I only have the two, guess I better get busy ordering stuff. Texans are very competitive 😁

Great and creative display for your excellent barge. If this is your first model, we’ll all look forward to more great build logs!

My mistake, it was the USS Kidd in Baton Rouge. There were 4-5 destroyers named Bainbridge including the first one in 1903 and a current Arleigh Burke class but apparently not in the movie Greyhound.

I watched it on my 85 inch TV using Amazon Fire Stick and the Apple TV app. Apple TV is not limited to a computer.

I read the book after seeing the movie, I found it tedious. The movie is 98 minutes of action, the book dwelled on and on and on about inner thoughts. I'm generally a fan of the book over the movie and of Forrester's books - not this time.

Not the best example but as a photographer I know that photos used for trailer or magazine covers are often reversed just to accommodate the text placement - someone should have noticed the reversed letters on the helmet, that could have been easily reversed back.

You only need the one 🙂 Nice work!

Thank you for saying so. I hope it proves helpful to others I refer to your Cheerful log a lot, thank you. I appreciate your thinking so.

It's a challenging but interesting build, you'll enjoy it. I'm going to run out of wood if I don't quit critiquing myself 😄 I enjoy the writing, thank you Garthog 🙂 Thank you!

Thanks for the comments and likes everyone, they are appreciated and inspirational!

Those look nice and I’m sure a challenge to get on so straight.

Those are some nice looking Cannon! I do think the tiny handles add a nice touch and are worth the effort. My cheat is to use some small brass belaying pins cut off and drilled in.

Here’s some photos. They may be a little disappointing because the parts are in their sealed plastic bags. I have a long way to go on Cheerful so in their bags they’ll remain. I included a bag of boxwood next to my bag of pear for Speedy. Again sorry also in their bags. You can see how neatly it’s packaged, every bag has a part number including the ropes and blocks Many of the lasered parts are also numbered. I can say I’ve never seen a kit so well packed and packaged... well except for Speedy .. but Chris has taken it up a notch with this MS version of Flirt. I really want to tear into the bags, but will resist. Pear from Speedy on top, Boxwood for Flirt on bottom Notice the thick, full color, spiral bound instructions. So much boxwood

Thanks guys. I’m kinda happy with it if I can just stop looking at the errors.

I need to again be clear that Cheerful comes with a live coach. On many more than one occasion I’ve reached out and quickly got expert advice from Chuck, including here. Thanks Chuck!!

There were a number of things about building Cheerful I’d never done or seen before. In the case of the square tuck I didn’t even know what one was. Fortunately @Chuck instructions are clear enough - I just dove in and took it a step at a time. I’d already made it challenging by not leaving enough of a gap between the bottom layer of the of the square tuck and the counter. So I filed and sanded until what once was a 1/32 backing triangle was now equal in thickness to a communion wafer. I elected to use 3/32 wood for the square tuck itself instead of recommended 1/8 for a better fit. Step one is adding the center piece and the two top pieces, that was pretty easy, if only I could stop there. And then the fun begins, I got a little involved and forgot to take a lot of photos. The next step is shaping a solid piece to fit against the top and center pieces, lightly attach it to my wafer thin backing with just two small drops of CA, then shape it to fit flush and follow the flow of the bottom of the hull. My recently acquired foam sanders in different shapes came in handy. Of course the key is to sand the piece flush but not go through the bottom of the already sanded hull, which I managed not to do. With it sanded smooth and a flush fit, using 180, 220, and finally 320 sandpaper, I pried it off with pair of pliers...not... Actually very carefully with an extremely thin putty blade. I marked a 1/8th line along the curve using my digital caliper and a series of marks as I moved it around the outside of the curve. I don’t have a scroll saw, I was able to rough out the curve with my #11 blade, one benefit of using the thinner 3/32 wood I suppose. I cut away from the line and then carefully sanded it down to the 1/8 mark - measuring the top flat part of the wood. The sanded slant doesn’t matter and is not included in the 1/8. With both sides complete I attached them permanently and began the process of filling them with 3/16 wide planks cut from the 3/32 wood (although plank width, regular planks are too thin). I didn’t take any photos of that process. I first sanded the top angle to match the top piece (I never changed that angle on my Byrnes Sander so it was easy to match). then measured the two lengths of the bottom angle to fit….and yes while 10 planks are fitted, more than 10 were cut - my scrap pile got a little taller. I also used my phatic glue and cedar saw dust to fill in gaps. There was only one, otherwise I was perfect. I can say that because they are all nicely filled and no one can tell now…ok there were two…ok more than two. All sterns are different, mine being no exception - I had to use a piece of 6mm wide (about 1-2mm wider than 3/16 wood) for the teeny tiny triangle of the outer most piece to fill the gap. This is the mindset I have been able to adjust to, differing from kits. I have a lot of uncut wood in various thicknesses, I’m not limited to what’s in the kit - so I needed wider piece I cut a wider piece. And now I have a square tuck, though I still don’t know what’s square about it. It's not perfect. Once I finished mine I stopped looking at Chuck’s nice photos in his monograph, no good can come from that. So I've added a little more character to my model. I have the counter sanded ready to paint red but I’m not going to do that until I get a good tight fit of the stern post. For whatever reason at the moment I’m not close to it fitting tight - hard to know what part to sand where. That’s a challenge for tomorrow.

Sure, I’ll take a few and post them

All the blocks look great, very well made. I guess you have a point, so okay....🙂

I don't see much of a taper as those planks go towards the bow?

I told James I'm just going to use his photos, I can't top his work. Plus I'm outsourcing the cannon to Derek 😄

😄

Quoins is what they are called and they would have a handle - with such tiny guns I'm not sure how essential that is. In my view not having the handle but including the quoin is fine, it's also a nice touch if you included them, either works.. It's also likely they are necessary to have in order to adjust the elevation. My view on gun elevation is what looks best with it sitting in the gun port. But check them all before finishing. The gun ports may vary in height based on the curve of the deck. You're photo looks fine - I think as long as they aren't pointed below 90 degrees whatever looks good and fits the gun port works. The ship the cannons are aiming at is probably level with the ship they are on, so...... You're painting is nice and precise - always an important point.