glbarlow

Well I did it, right at 1/16th with no broken frames and fingers intact. As advertised the Alaskan Yellow Cedar is soft and easy to carve and sand - as wood goes. I thought I’d share a little bit about how I did it in the event it might be beneficial to future Cheerful builders. For starters, here are the tools used in this task. I’ve never used a jeweler’s saw before, but I will again. I got it here on Amazon with 6 sizes of 144 blades, it worked great. I got it for this specific task because I really didn’t want to try it with a Dremel. In fact I took a shot with the Dremel on my busted hull and demonstrated to myself it wasn’t the way to go for me. I marked a 1/8th line down the outside of the stern frame to allow room for error. While the saw runs straight it is easy enough to turn, too easy in fact. The thing to watch is keeping track of the cut both inside and outside the frame, what looks good on one side may not be on the other due to the angles involved. I reversed the blade in the holder in order to cut inside out at the very base of the frame stopping at the 1/8th mark I’d made. Then when I reached that cut sawing from the top the bulk of the frame just dropped off. It was relatively easy, for me the key was not to saw faster, just be patient and let the blade do the work. With the bulk of the frame now gone I evened up the rough cut to a consistent 1/8th creating the proper alignment for the future inner bulwark planks. Then it was slow and careful application of my Veritas mini-chisel in concert with my trusty #11 blade and sanding sticks to gradually reduce the frame to 1/16th. I did as Chuck suggested and took multiple breaks, along with a few deep breathes here and there. I had two measurement aides, I had earlier added a 1/16th thick brace between the last two bulk head frames as I was planking because it got a little wobbly with such a long space between (and I read ahead in Chuck’s monograph where he adds them for the inner planking), now it became a thickness gauge along with my handy brass 1/16th saw gauge. I don’t recall where I got these (I have multiple sizes) but they often come in handy. So then it was cut, chisel, sand, repeat - maintaining the angle for future planks and keeping track of both inside and outside. Here’s a warning: The sides of the stern (note my exquisite knowledge of nautical terms:-/) had been very sturdy as I planked it, but once the bulk of the outside stern frames are cut away it quickly became fragile. In fact I cracked a plank with a moment of carelessness of too much finger pressure. It was just a very tiny crack on the bottom layer of the wales that will later get covered, but it was a good reminder to be gentle with all the cutting and sanding. Even small as it was I used a razor thin spatula and filled the crack with some Titebond to keep it from becoming a bigger crack. I had dreaded this step for a while, now it’s is done. The jewelers saw, plus the #11 blade, chisel and sanding sticks, is the way to go in my opinion. I might have pulled off the Dremel, but more than likely there’d be a gouge in one of the inner frames. These remain visible when the deck area is done so it’s important they remain pretty. Next planking the stern.

Thanks Chuck. Yes the perfectionist in me overcomes my lack of patience. I don’t mind how long it took. I think I developed a system on the third to last port 🤣 Thanks for the advice on the stern frames. I’m going the #11 blade and a jewelers saw, I’m sure the Dremel would get away from me. 1/16th is really skinny. Thank goodness for sanding sticks.

Thanks BE. The Alaskan Yellow Cedar really is nice wood - easy to shape and sands to as smooth as butter. Any gaffer tape will do, I have multiple versions and multiple colors. The distinction of gaffer tape is that it is as strong as duct tape but it leaves no residue when removed - as long as it's not left on for too long. I agree with both you and BE. I think sanding sealer has a different purpose, perhaps as a base for acrylic's. The wipe on poly is itself a sealer and adds a whole different dimension to the yellow cedar, it brings out the grain, provides a beautiful finish and changes the wood from a light yellow to a golden color. The photos, at least my iPhone photos, don't do it justice.

The port side is now complete. Cutting and measuring these 64 planks (more like 84 including the ones I rejected after cutting them the wrong length or angle) was an exercise in patience and perseverance, but I like how it all turned out. I will make a few adjustments to the sheer once I start the cap rail step and a few minor modifications to some sills after I thin the inner bulwarks, for now though I’m content to move to the next step. Which is thinning these outer stern frames. I’m not excited about this step, not that confident with a Dremel, small drum or not. While I can paint a 1/64th rabbet with a 18/0 brush without concern I’m hoping not to gouge one of the inner stern frames in the thinning process. I’m going to have to think about this a bit. I may first try a jeweler’s saw. I do have one unbroken frame on the first now crushed hull so I get one practice run. If anyone has any suggestions or advice on doing this other than don't screw it up, I'd be happy to hear it. I noticed the photos of the SB and port side appear to be a different color - that's purely the affect of my iPhone. They are exactly the same in reality. At some point I need to get my camera gear out and do it justice. I can’t do anything for a few hours while the poly dries - so I’ll just sit and stare at it for now. Oh, I can never have enough ways to sand things. This latest acquisition from here at Amazon are thanks to a recommendation from BobG. Good stuff.

Well done. I like that the cannon jig has its own stand:-D and thanks for providing a nice reference example for when I get to HM Flirts guns someday. I'm hoping the 1:48 scale of Cheerful will help make it a little easier, maybe just a little.

It’s a nice looking kit, I’ll enjoy watching another of Chuck’s designs come together. where did you get those long brass clamps?

The AVS has always been one of my favorite builds. I had a great log here on it, but it along with my Pegasus log went down in flames in the great systems crash. I've backed up every log since, but not those unfortunately. I don't know if I had mentioned here the Bob Hunt Practicum on the AVS, which I believe is still available for sell. As far as you are in your build it would still be helpful for you when it comes time to do the rigging - its here https://www.lauckstreetshipyard.com/ if your interested.

Just got this set from Amazon - I haven't tried them yet but I like the concept, especially for curves. Thanks for the suggestion. I'm look forward to seeing how your joggles go - I've never tried this and also not really sure how you go about cutting them other than the sharp chisel route.

Nicely done! That's a bold move having it on a single pedestal, great look.

The galleries look really excellent. Great detail and craftsmanship. I would have needed more than one extra.

Agree with James, your revised waterline seems more how the boat would float. I often have the same issue thinking the plan water line (of almost every model) is too high. But logically they had to sit pretty low in the water to be under sail.

BE is right, this works and speeds the process.

And thank us 3 years from now and think this so much better with them rigged. I do have to acknowledge I never tried it with 4 pounders. That ship needs an armory upgrade. Actually I read the book on Cochran Chris recommended. He tried bigger cannon but it slowed the ship too much. He demonstrated he could carry the entire broadside of cannonballs in his pocket. The net result all these years later, you get to rig tiny cannons.

Best tool ever, glad you’re liking it too

I always look at the end of the section I'm working on, if I know what it's supposed to look like when its done its easier following the instructions to get me there. As others noted the first planking serves only as a base for the second. Be comfortable sanding the heck out of it and using wood filler as necessary. The smoother that base becomes the easier and better looking is the the 2nd planking. Think through any tapering you might need to do on the 2nd planking, better yet look at BE's and James builds, they've done one or two so steal, I mean learn whatever you can from their build on the second planking - even if its not in the words you'll see things in the photos. Believe me I'm doing that with my first scratch build in Cheerful - I have 4 particular build logs I look at, only at the post and pages that are at and just after the step I'm on. That's the best thing about this forum, you're not alone. Stealing, I mean adopting the best practices of others is how we all get better. If all else fails leave the area a few up from the keel and below the curve of the side until last. If you have to fill it in, fill it in a place where you can't see it when it's sitting on the shelf. Don't tell anybody I told you that, the perfectionists just fell off their chairs. Me I never make a mistake, that I can't hide. I'm a big fan of @chris watton and Vanguard Models, I'm first in line (at least in my mind) for his shipwright version of HMS Flirt and already have HMS Speedy. I believe you chose wisely, not only because of the superb instructions but because Chris is a world class designer. AND he's on this forum so you can always ask the guy who designed or his ace master builder @James H any question. Here's my modeling maxim: It won't all go perfect, mistakes are a part of the process. The best fun is to Adapt, Improvise, Overcome. Clint Eastwood borrowed that quote from me, no wait - I stole it from him. Have fun, power through any frustrating moments, get to the other side and enjoy your work. That's my whole list of platitudes for the day, I'm all out now.

Do a topic search on Chuck Passaro's plank bending and planking tutorial in general. It's a game changer. I works great and is relatively easy to do once you get the hang of it. The only tool you need is a small travel iron.

I know what you mean, planking below the wales is always an adventure curving both in and down or up depending on how you look at it. As I hope you'll see when I get there Chuck's bending method is even more mind blowing, I'll bend a board upward (in a 2D view) to get it to fit the inward bend of the bow. It doesn't look like it works until you lay the board on and then you go "wow."

Thanks Chuck, I understand and good point. I haven't touched the sheer yet, I plan to wait until the other side is done so I can even them both up at the same time. I'll run a board along the top with a level to make sure I don't get out of whack on one side. I left the top planks just a tad higher than the bulkhead extensions to make sure I had a little room to work with.

Interesting question Jim. I don't know a lot about sanding sealer but the big thing about wipe on poly is how it's absorbed into the wood and brings out the color. Again I'm no expert but I think that poly is a form of sealer and putting on actual sealer before would defeat part of the purpose of the poly. Perhaps the sealer, like gesso, is as a first step to painting? It would be interesting to hear from anyone with more experience with sealer, I haven't used it myself.

Thanks Rusty! The wow factor of a single light coat of wipe on poly (not even dry yet). While it serves to highlight where more sanding is needed (but I knew that) it certainly serves to demonstrate the Alaskan Yellow Cedar is pretty nice stuff.

I’ve finished Starboard above the wales. It’s very slow going measuring out each of the 4 planks (one just 1/16th, the others 5/32) between the ports to keep the 1/64th rabbet. I've only done preliminary sanding I don't need to go to far on that as yet. I wish I could impart some sage wisdom on cutting these, but its just grinding it out with careful measure and cutting. More finely and carefully than I’ve ever had to do on any kit. I finally determined the best way for me is using my Veritas mini- chisels to cut the planks on carefully measured and marked lines using the sides as the ports to mark the angle from the in-board side. I will have to build up the sill on port 3 by 1/64th. I have a plan, but it will keep until I thin out the bulwarks and before I put in the false deck, so a while from now. I’ve already tried it, it works. Still it’s pretty amazing to me with all that it took with aligning port sills and wales to the frame to get here that I was that close to being right. Once again I attribute it to the design, Chuck's great monograph, and some peaceful patience on my part (something I’m that good at). In case you missed it earlier, the green gaffer tape (a photographers best friend, it leaves no residue and is thicker than blue painters tape) is to protect the keel while the ship is in the Amati keel holder for working angles. Wondering if I should I apply a coat of wipe-on poly to this completed side above the wales, or wait until later. I’ve already lightly sanded parts of the stem and keel and plan to re-apply poly there after I’ve completed the above wales planking and stern before starting on planking below the wales. Any thoughts on the timing of the poly? I will be sanding it more later, just don’t want to over-sand at this point. This single planking stuff can cause some anxiety knowing what I see now is what I’ll always see… Now on to port side…

Chuck sells a 2.5mm block that will work for cannon rigging

I did full rigging for Pegasus, Granado, and Pickle. While it is hard and scale is a challenge it is worth it. With as good a job as you’re doing on Speedy I think you’d later regret not doing it. I’m looking forward to it for Cheerful at 1:48.

But no different than plans, they buy a superb model like Byrnes, then first reverse engineer it, then make it with cheaper parts and without R&D cost. Their primary fighter jet is a knockoff of a Russian one, they know no bounds.

Let’s not buy these. No different than buying ZHL models, it’s IP theft. Jim Byrnes shouldn’t lose money to Chinese knockoffs