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Everything posted by glbarlow
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Just amazing work. Just as with any tool from a #11 blade on up, having the CNC means nothing without your artistic and technical skills to use it. I see nothing controversial with using all the tools available today to create such a masterpiece.
- 589 replies
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- le gros ventre
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We’re having rolling power blackouts here, 40 minutes on, 40 minutes off with no end in sight. -1 degrees may not be a big deal in the east, but it’s not happened here since 1949. Consequently I’m not getting much boat yard time in. Too busy trying to stay warm and grab a little internet time when I can. Hopefully by the weekend.....
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You’re really flying building this. And doing such a great job.
- 201 replies
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- Duchess of Kingston
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I think it’s ok to leave them off altogether. They were easy to move in reality. To me they seem a bit of clutter to the otherwise graceful look of the frigate. I didn’t replace mine on Pegasus, but I should have.
- 164 replies
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- fly
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I’ve never understood the purpose of using white line then staining it with India Ink, a disaster waiting to happen. I always use dark line to start with. For what it’s worth I’ll never be good at tying rat lines, it is not the highlight of my modeling. Nice details in the rigging, you always add that extra something. Meanwhile I’m spending days on channels and strops.
- 725 replies
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- vanguard models
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Badly worded, of course I’d mill my own strips, nothing to it after Cheerful. I meant the wood to cut the strips from. I thought the second option was Pear, I see it’s now it’s instead Cherry. So if I chose Cherry, and mill my own strips, the Cherry to do that you can provide as well as all the Winnie version of mini-kits. I guess I can see this all for myself once the store opens.
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Amazing as always. What brown paint did you use? It’s such a perfect match to the wood. An interesting thing about this ship is the lack of a rail or high transom. It seems like the duchess could easily be blown off the stern during her morning stroll about the upper deck. 🤣😂
- 201 replies
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Nicely done Tim, it looks great. I’m sure you are justifiably proud of your work. I’m impressed with how much you’ve learned and how far you came form your start. It’s a great model!
- 435 replies
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- vanguard models
- alert
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Breech rope is often enough, there’s plenty of visual appeal all around on this model. Crisp work as always. I should use more towels. congrats on the vaccination hub. I got my first shot today at the Texas Motor Speedway as provided by my county. Very efficient and fast.
- 201 replies
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It isn't an age thing, all of us are challenged by that. A quad hands is essential to working with blocks and rigging, do you have one? Here's the one I have from Amazon, its a US link but I know Amazon in the UK also has them Quad Hands By the way, I'd definitely paint the cannons, the cast metal would seem unfinished to me, something you might regret later. Most cannon of the era have red trucks with black metal. If you choose not to do the weathering definitely use a paint that finishes as simulated metal, not something glossy. I use Admiralty Flat Ironwork Black and Admiralty Red Ochre for the trucks you can get both here, and its local to the UK. Admiralty Paints. There is a lot of things to learn and experiment with for your first model. I'd suggest not overthinking it and learn the basics on this one. I'm on my 10th and still learning something new on this forum every day. Enjoy the process.
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Yes, while it’s my workmanship, as I frequently do in my build log all due credit goes to Chuck. As I also noted I was initially a little reluctant to use weathering powder now I weather everything simulating metal. While this discussion has been focused on wire, blocks can be seized with rope and the loop created by seizing it on a drill bit then the resulting loop stiffened with CA. Easier to work with and though it will give, probably about the same as 34 gauge wire though I’ve never compared them.
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The Boom Crutches I had to sort through how to get started on the boom crutches, the monograph picks up with how to approach the angles, which is essential to the process, but has the basic crutch already made, I had to figure out how to get to that point. I started with some rectangular blanks of ¼ sheet cut a little larger than the finished width and height then, with my pencil and paper constructed a series of measurements and lines to work from to create the initial Y. I suppose some can free-hand such things, I cannot. I wanted a precise beginning to get me to a precise end. I used a router bit on the mill for the half circle and the jewelers saw with the blanks in my small vise to cut out a starting point. As Chuck points out these need to be extra thick, the ¼ barely covers it. The reason is distinct angles that have to be accounted for and the resulting sanding and cutting to get those. The monograph starts with the side, I found it easier after a couple of false starts to start with the back angle first, then the side then the front. The two remaining angles, the top and the turn in towards the mast are best done after mounting. I had to get it to a size that seemed in scale. The crutches are not on the plans so I was eyeballing it based on the monograph photos and mostly what looked right to me. I went through several of my blanks, in fact I got one (show in the photo) very close to a final product only to decide it was two wide, so out it went. Once I sorted out a process and the scale and finally got one about 50% near what I wanted I stopped and made the second one. One of the many challenges of these things is making the second one identical to the first. My approach, rather than finish one at a time was to bring two along together. There is a lot, a lot, of sanding to get from the Y blank to the shape and size I wanted and get the angles needed. I kept the two in balance with frequent measurements at key points with digital calipers, and kept track on a series of small papers (only the final one is shown) kept next to the sanding tools. I used of different grits, blocks, sticks and holders and a needle file or two here and there. It took two days of taking my time, slowly reducing the blanks into identical crutches resulting in what the photo shows finally attached to the stern then finished it all off with wood filler along the seams of the stern rail. Did I mention there was a lot of sanding. I recommend this approach. Rather than make one and copy it, make two together, reducing and shaping slowly just tenths of millimeters at a time. As I noted, I had several false starts on the first one - but once I had the basic Y blank right I had no repeats on the second crutch. I pinned and glued them on then made the final adjustments, filing the tops parallel to the water line and then turning them inward on the angle the boom, connected to the mast, would rest, Finally I lightly smoothed and rounded all the edges and it was ready to paint. Stern Complete I’ve reached something of a milestone. The stern of my Cheerful is complete. I’m pretty happy with how its turned out so far. One challenge after another has been met, I’ve learned more new things than I can count and used tools I didn’t know I needed (ok, wanted). I have more challenges ahead, like how to shape and file brass strip for the stays which is up next. So I’m off to do that, but I can look back (see what I did there) and see a portion of the hull now finished. Thanks for stopping by.
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Thanks everyone for the likes and comments. I appreciate your stopping by. Working on the boom crutches now, they are fun fun.
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