glbarlow

Good that you caught the gun port, nice fix, very clever solution.

I’ve never understood the purpose of using white line then staining it with India Ink, a disaster waiting to happen. I always use dark line to start with. For what it’s worth I’ll never be good at tying rat lines, it is not the highlight of my modeling. Nice details in the rigging, you always add that extra something. Meanwhile I’m spending days on channels and strops.

Hoping to get one in Cherry before they’re gone. When will they be available to order?

Glad to see you back at it and making good progress. Excellent work!

Thanks

Badly worded, of course I’d mill my own strips, nothing to it after Cheerful. I meant the wood to cut the strips from. I thought the second option was Pear, I see it’s now it’s instead Cherry. So if I chose Cherry, and mill my own strips, the Cherry to do that you can provide as well as all the Winnie version of mini-kits. I guess I can see this all for myself once the store opens.

When the store opens will you have all the past parts packages in stock including these? Do you offer the strip wood or planks for stripping in both boxwood and pear, or just in pear? I'm thinking about this after Cheerful, I love the project - just not sure I can go so big.

Amazing as always. What brown paint did you use? It’s such a perfect match to the wood. An interesting thing about this ship is the lack of a rail or high transom. It seems like the duchess could easily be blown off the stern during her morning stroll about the upper deck. 🤣😂

Can you mail me the three that will go with Sphinx 😂🤣😂🤣

Nicely done Tim, it looks great. I’m sure you are justifiably proud of your work. I’m impressed with how much you’ve learned and how far you came form your start. It’s a great model!

Ordered on Jan 28, got it today Feb 4. Pretty quick.

Never seen any other version but that - or what else you'd other wise do. Best of luck in your search. I'm a bit surprised Chris doesn't include this in the instructions.

I describe the weathering powder process in my Cheerful log. It is Doc OBriens Rusty Red from MicroMart. It is done after painting with soft brushes. Nothing more than brush on brush off, but as it’s powder done off ship so as not to spread.

Breech rope is often enough, there’s plenty of visual appeal all around on this model. Crisp work as always. I should use more towels. congrats on the vaccination hub. I got my first shot today at the Texas Motor Speedway as provided by my county. Very efficient and fast.

The diagram is correct, you need one eyebolt for the breeching rope and another for the training tackle per side as the diagram show and where they show them. At a minimum you want the breeching rope rigged - the rest is your decision on what level of look and tackle you want.

It isn't an age thing, all of us are challenged by that. A quad hands is essential to working with blocks and rigging, do you have one? Here's the one I have from Amazon, its a US link but I know Amazon in the UK also has them Quad Hands By the way, I'd definitely paint the cannons, the cast metal would seem unfinished to me, something you might regret later. Most cannon of the era have red trucks with black metal. If you choose not to do the weathering definitely use a paint that finishes as simulated metal, not something glossy. I use Admiralty Flat Ironwork Black and Admiralty Red Ochre for the trucks you can get both here, and its local to the UK. Admiralty Paints. There is a lot of things to learn and experiment with for your first model. I'd suggest not overthinking it and learn the basics on this one. I'm on my 10th and still learning something new on this forum every day. Enjoy the process.

Yes, while it’s my workmanship, as I frequently do in my build log all due credit goes to Chuck. As I also noted I was initially a little reluctant to use weathering powder now I weather everything simulating metal. While this discussion has been focused on wire, blocks can be seized with rope and the loop created by seizing it on a drill bit then the resulting loop stiffened with CA. Easier to work with and though it will give, probably about the same as 34 gauge wire though I’ve never compared them.

The Boom Crutches I had to sort through how to get started on the boom crutches, the monograph picks up with how to approach the angles, which is essential to the process, but has the basic crutch already made, I had to figure out how to get to that point. I started with some rectangular blanks of ¼ sheet cut a little larger than the finished width and height then, with my pencil and paper constructed a series of measurements and lines to work from to create the initial Y. I suppose some can free-hand such things, I cannot. I wanted a precise beginning to get me to a precise end. I used a router bit on the mill for the half circle and the jewelers saw with the blanks in my small vise to cut out a starting point. As Chuck points out these need to be extra thick, the ¼ barely covers it. The reason is distinct angles that have to be accounted for and the resulting sanding and cutting to get those. The monograph starts with the side, I found it easier after a couple of false starts to start with the back angle first, then the side then the front. The two remaining angles, the top and the turn in towards the mast are best done after mounting. I had to get it to a size that seemed in scale. The crutches are not on the plans so I was eyeballing it based on the monograph photos and mostly what looked right to me. I went through several of my blanks, in fact I got one (show in the photo) very close to a final product only to decide it was two wide, so out it went. Once I sorted out a process and the scale and finally got one about 50% near what I wanted I stopped and made the second one. One of the many challenges of these things is making the second one identical to the first. My approach, rather than finish one at a time was to bring two along together. There is a lot, a lot, of sanding to get from the Y blank to the shape and size I wanted and get the angles needed. I kept the two in balance with frequent measurements at key points with digital calipers, and kept track on a series of small papers (only the final one is shown) kept next to the sanding tools. I used of different grits, blocks, sticks and holders and a needle file or two here and there. It took two days of taking my time, slowly reducing the blanks into identical crutches resulting in what the photo shows finally attached to the stern then finished it all off with wood filler along the seams of the stern rail. Did I mention there was a lot of sanding. I recommend this approach. Rather than make one and copy it, make two together, reducing and shaping slowly just tenths of millimeters at a time. As I noted, I had several false starts on the first one - but once I had the basic Y blank right I had no repeats on the second crutch. I pinned and glued them on then made the final adjustments, filing the tops parallel to the water line and then turning them inward on the angle the boom, connected to the mast, would rest, Finally I lightly smoothed and rounded all the edges and it was ready to paint. Stern Complete I’ve reached something of a milestone. The stern of my Cheerful is complete. I’m pretty happy with how its turned out so far. One challenge after another has been met, I’ve learned more new things than I can count and used tools I didn’t know I needed (ok, wanted). I have more challenges ahead, like how to shape and file brass strip for the stays which is up next. So I’m off to do that, but I can look back (see what I did there) and see a portion of the hull now finished. Thanks for stopping by.

Thanks everyone for the likes and comments. I appreciate your stopping by. Working on the boom crutches now, they are fun fun.

That’s interesting, it’s my Z one that’s the issue too.

Nice rope work Tim - it's looking great. I like the crisp look of a well painted model, the black and red are a nice contrast to the wood and white hull. Very nice looking ship you've got there. Well done! BTW where did you find your build board stand? I've looked for those and always seem to get an out of stock notice.

I get items from Chris sent to the US via UPS in a few days. Items from a UK model shop sent via Royal Air Mail can take weeks or months. Items sent within the US from Chuck via US Post can take two days or two weeks. It makes little sense these days. I could probably purchase the books for Chris and send them to him via UPS and get them there sooner than the US - Royal Mail route - granting that might cost as much as the books. Note none of this is the fault of the senders.

Yes I always do this. I’ve had no problems getting accurate cuts. I mentioned I cut a bunch of timber heads easily within a .1mm accuracy by carefully establishing a zero start point, all of which came out identical. My comment was only in regard to stiffness of the zero set sleeves. The knobs turn just fine, the table moves smoothly and the axis settings are quite accurate. It is a small thing, I shouldn’t have mentioned it or at least described the issue more clearly.

It isn’t the turning knob adjusting the table, but the black collar on each of those turning easily to set the zero mark while not moving the adjustment of the table. Yes I know about that gibs adjustment (forgot they’re called gibs). The table moves smoothly. And if you told me about gibs before yesterday odds are I don’t remember🙃. Anyway, I’ll Google it or contact Proxxon. It’s not a big deal.

I’m thinking not as I don’t know what gibs are🤣