glbarlow

It’s just a pre- announcement of a ‘copy’ being pieced together now by some Chinese hack. 😳
 
I just read it as well (as a guest, I was kicked out long ago). Interesting how some members are complimentary while the staff and admins work hard to disparage Chuck at every turn. This comment by a member “ I emailed Chuck with updates and progress pictures and found him to be very personable, interested and encouraging. A much more personal investment of his time and interest than one might otherwise expect from the head of a commercial venture.“ must have really hurt.
 

It’s just a pre- announcement of a ‘copy’ being pieced together now by some Chinese hack. 😳
 
I just read it as well (as a guest, I was kicked out long ago). Interesting how some members are complimentary while the staff and admins work hard to disparage Chuck at every turn. This comment by a member “ I emailed Chuck with updates and progress pictures and found him to be very personable, interested and encouraging. A much more personal investment of his time and interest than one might otherwise expect from the head of a commercial venture.“ must have really hurt.
 

It’s just a pre- announcement of a ‘copy’ being pieced together now by some Chinese hack. 😳
 
I just read it as well (as a guest, I was kicked out long ago). Interesting how some members are complimentary while the staff and admins work hard to disparage Chuck at every turn. This comment by a member “ I emailed Chuck with updates and progress pictures and found him to be very personable, interested and encouraging. A much more personal investment of his time and interest than one might otherwise expect from the head of a commercial venture.“ must have really hurt.
 

It’s just a pre- announcement of a ‘copy’ being pieced together now by some Chinese hack. 😳
 
I just read it as well (as a guest, I was kicked out long ago). Interesting how some members are complimentary while the staff and admins work hard to disparage Chuck at every turn. This comment by a member “ I emailed Chuck with updates and progress pictures and found him to be very personable, interested and encouraging. A much more personal investment of his time and interest than one might otherwise expect from the head of a commercial venture.“ must have really hurt.
 

It’s just a pre- announcement of a ‘copy’ being pieced together now by some Chinese hack. 😳
 
I just read it as well (as a guest, I was kicked out long ago). Interesting how some members are complimentary while the staff and admins work hard to disparage Chuck at every turn. This comment by a member “ I emailed Chuck with updates and progress pictures and found him to be very personable, interested and encouraging. A much more personal investment of his time and interest than one might otherwise expect from the head of a commercial venture.“ must have really hurt.
 

It’s just a pre- announcement of a ‘copy’ being pieced together now by some Chinese hack. 😳
 
I just read it as well (as a guest, I was kicked out long ago). Interesting how some members are complimentary while the staff and admins work hard to disparage Chuck at every turn. This comment by a member “ I emailed Chuck with updates and progress pictures and found him to be very personable, interested and encouraging. A much more personal investment of his time and interest than one might otherwise expect from the head of a commercial venture.“ must have really hurt.
 

It’s just a pre- announcement of a ‘copy’ being pieced together now by some Chinese hack. 😳
 
I just read it as well (as a guest, I was kicked out long ago). Interesting how some members are complimentary while the staff and admins work hard to disparage Chuck at every turn. This comment by a member “ I emailed Chuck with updates and progress pictures and found him to be very personable, interested and encouraging. A much more personal investment of his time and interest than one might otherwise expect from the head of a commercial venture.“ must have really hurt.
 

It’s just a pre- announcement of a ‘copy’ being pieced together now by some Chinese hack. 😳
 
I just read it as well (as a guest, I was kicked out long ago). Interesting how some members are complimentary while the staff and admins work hard to disparage Chuck at every turn. This comment by a member “ I emailed Chuck with updates and progress pictures and found him to be very personable, interested and encouraging. A much more personal investment of his time and interest than one might otherwise expect from the head of a commercial venture.“ must have really hurt.
 

It’s just a pre- announcement of a ‘copy’ being pieced together now by some Chinese hack. 😳
 
I just read it as well (as a guest, I was kicked out long ago). Interesting how some members are complimentary while the staff and admins work hard to disparage Chuck at every turn. This comment by a member “ I emailed Chuck with updates and progress pictures and found him to be very personable, interested and encouraging. A much more personal investment of his time and interest than one might otherwise expect from the head of a commercial venture.“ must have really hurt.
 

It’s just a pre- announcement of a ‘copy’ being pieced together now by some Chinese hack. 😳
 
I just read it as well (as a guest, I was kicked out long ago). Interesting how some members are complimentary while the staff and admins work hard to disparage Chuck at every turn. This comment by a member “ I emailed Chuck with updates and progress pictures and found him to be very personable, interested and encouraging. A much more personal investment of his time and interest than one might otherwise expect from the head of a commercial venture.“ must have really hurt.
 

Yeah, but he'd be a lot faster making the next 50. 😉

It’s just a pre- announcement of a ‘copy’ being pieced together now by some Chinese hack. 😳
 
I just read it as well (as a guest, I was kicked out long ago). Interesting how some members are complimentary while the staff and admins work hard to disparage Chuck at every turn. This comment by a member “ I emailed Chuck with updates and progress pictures and found him to be very personable, interested and encouraging. A much more personal investment of his time and interest than one might otherwise expect from the head of a commercial venture.“ must have really hurt.
 

That would be so nice but it probably would put the builder at risk of being abused.
 
Anyway....those gratings
 
You will basically get all of the laser cut parts in this chapter.  There are only four hatches with gratings.  They are not very large.   Here are all of the elements needed.  You will get two layers for the jig.   The two layers are glued together to form the jig.
 
You also get a right angle jig which is 3/64" thick.  The thickness is very important.
 
Lets get started.
 

Start with the coamings.   They are laser cut and 1/8" thick.
 
The fore and aft sides are already shaped with the round-up of the deck....or camber as usually described but is an inaccurate term.
 
Use the right angle jig to glue two sides together...dont worry about the laser char just yet.   Then glue the remaining two sides together using the same jig to make a nice right angle.
 

Glue the two right angles together to form the coaming.  Sand the sides clean which are left a bit longer as you can see in order to remove the char and leave a nice bright smooth surface.   Also sand the top sides to clean the char.  You can see the cleaned coaming below.
 
Then you can start working on the grating.  Again just like my other smaller scale grating kits.
 
Insert the laser cut grating strips in the slotted jig.  NO GLUE of course!!!   This is just for alignment.
 
Then start adding the cross battens.  These are glued in position.  They may be too tight as you want a press fit.  So just run the small strips 1/16" x 1/16" through your fingers with some fine sandpaper.  Not much.  Just enough so the battens fit into the slots. see below.  There are seven batten strips and seven laser cut grating strips for three of the hatches.  The fourth is made the same way but is much smaller on the fcastle.
 

When all the strips are glued in position,  remove the grating from the jig.  Snip off the edges as shown below.  Then sand all four edges clean.  Try and not distort the perfect square shape.  In the photo two sides have the ends snipped off.   The smaller hatchway will have fewer battens and more to snip away.  Also sand the top surface clean and smooth.  Once again try and maintain the proper shape with the round-up.  You will know when its all done when the char is cleaned from the laser cut grating strip squares.

The photo below shows the top of the grating and sides all clean and nice and smooth.  It makes a nice grating.  The holes are 1/16" or 2" on the real ship and perfectly in scale.

You should but dont have to sand the bottom side as well.   Here is a look.  The battens are clearly less thick than the grating strips and these are pretty close to actual construction methods.  Or at least the impression of it.
 

And almost done...you will see how nice and tight the grating fits in the coaming.   Dont over sand the edges and you should test the grating in the coaming as you sand the edges.   In fact, the coaming normally has ledges on the port and starboard sides inside the coaming.  These create a ledge that the grating sits on so it doesnt fall through.  You can add those if you like.  But in my case the gratings fit so snug that they were not required.  I simply glued the gratings into the coamings making sure the top of the coaming was flush with the grating.  I sanded it smooth with some 400 grit paper.

The four corners of the coaming are very sharp at this point.  You dont want that.  They should be rounded off.  But they are only rounded off down to the deck level.   That is when you take that same right angle jig and use it.
 
The jig is the same thickness as the planking.   So you can place the coaming into the corner and use a sharp #11 blade to slice away the corner.  Slice it down to the top of the jig only.   You can make a stop cut at the jig level before slicing off the corner.  Then just round off the corner.
 
 
Dont slice off too much.   Just a little bit to round off each corner.
 
To finish it off I drilled three holes with a #76 bit.  I used 20lb black fishing line to simulate the bolts on the top of the coamings.  Three on each side.   They cut flush with the top of the coamings with a sharp blade.
 
All done!!!
 
 
 

Channels
 
Initial progress on channels, a really fun opportunity to cut away some of that moulding I so lovingly added a long time ago.

But before starting that I decided to bite the bullet to remove and replace the port lids. As I’ve mentioned a few times I have broken and glued back these lids too many times to count, all of course due to carelessness. It took some delicate work to remove them and the hinges without damaging the hull, especially the friezes.
 
This time I used the wider, thicker hinges @Chuck offers. Unlike I failed to do before I kept these movable rather than fixed.  I can now display these more like the right most port. My lesson learned is to install the port with both ends of the hinge on the lid, not one part on the hull and the other on the lid then threading the wire to connect them. This time I was able to keep the hinge tight enough to hold position. My first effort ended up with ‘floppy’ lids so I had to glue them into a fixed position, and by consequence made them vulnerable to my careless movements.
 
Though it took several days it was a good call to take this step back and get a better result. I’m happy to report the friezes all survived as did my sanity.

Well the friezes survived around the ports anyway.  Cutting away moulding the exact width and shape needed for the channels was pucker time, go slow, measure once, twice, three times before cutting, did I mention go slow. @FrankWouts was wise to factor this in at the time he installed his moulding, wish I’d thought of that.
 
I did remove and replace the frieze below the fore channel, it didn't prove necessary for the main and mizzen.

The beauty of this forum is the willingness to share means and methods. Something I always try to do and certainly take advantage of myself. This surgical tool, for podiatry I think, is absolutely perfect. My thanks to @Blue Ensign for sharing it. Two choices for replaceable blades: The wider chisel blade is thin, sharp and the perfect width for pushing through the moulding, keeping a clean edge on the remaining moulding either side. The smaller blade that opens up the slot for the strap perfectly. I have used this tool repeatedly for many varied purposes when my even my mini-Veritas chisels (@DelF) prove to large. A multi purpose sharp, light tool for model work. I have not yet tried them on my feet.
 
I have a wood chisel set for my lathe that until now were a bit too large to be useful. However one of those with a tight, sharp curved edge was perfect to notch and shape the moulding to match the channel. You can see the wood handle in the background, I failed to include it in the photo.
 
The tall height gauge, courtesy of @Stuntflyer, was very helpful in keeping the channels level with the waterline, I added the bubble level to make sure it was first level itself.  I need a better platform for it than a bowl, but it does the job. The tumblehome of the hull distorts what level seems just looking at it, the gauge brings it to actual level.

Long ago I acquired ebony deadeyes I wanted to use, however the center diameter of these proved too large for Chuck’s nice acrylic strops. So after splitting a few to learn that I went to Chuck’s make your own 5mm and 6mm versions. I still had a desire to go with ebony, but didn’t like my result just painting them black so I went with this ebony wood dye. With the thickness of water it takes 4 coats (and maybe still one more) to get them there, I like the  resulting look. It’s hard to tell in the photos but the boxwood grain still shows through and they look more “natural,” not perfectly black. The little paint stand is a strip of wood with the mill cutting a groove its length.
 
I didn’t take any photos of constructing the actual channels. Not much to it, just removing char, minimal shaping, and gluing together the three layers, and of course multiple coats of WOP.



So here where it stands. I’m going to wait until I have all the 5 and 6 mm deadeyes finished and both port and starboard channels installed before finishing these (including straightening the smiling faces) to ensure uniformity. Not too much to go on chapter 11 after that, I’ve been working on the gangways, posts and ladders in parallel to the channels so it's fitting and mounting them. I’m of mixed thoughts on the swivel guns - so decision deferred for now.
 
As always thanks for stopping by - I appreciate your taking the time with your likes and comments.

Channels
 
Initial progress on channels, a really fun opportunity to cut away some of that moulding I so lovingly added a long time ago.

But before starting that I decided to bite the bullet to remove and replace the port lids. As I’ve mentioned a few times I have broken and glued back these lids too many times to count, all of course due to carelessness. It took some delicate work to remove them and the hinges without damaging the hull, especially the friezes.
 
This time I used the wider, thicker hinges @Chuck offers. Unlike I failed to do before I kept these movable rather than fixed.  I can now display these more like the right most port. My lesson learned is to install the port with both ends of the hinge on the lid, not one part on the hull and the other on the lid then threading the wire to connect them. This time I was able to keep the hinge tight enough to hold position. My first effort ended up with ‘floppy’ lids so I had to glue them into a fixed position, and by consequence made them vulnerable to my careless movements.
 
Though it took several days it was a good call to take this step back and get a better result. I’m happy to report the friezes all survived as did my sanity.

Well the friezes survived around the ports anyway.  Cutting away moulding the exact width and shape needed for the channels was pucker time, go slow, measure once, twice, three times before cutting, did I mention go slow. @FrankWouts was wise to factor this in at the time he installed his moulding, wish I’d thought of that.
 
I did remove and replace the frieze below the fore channel, it didn't prove necessary for the main and mizzen.

The beauty of this forum is the willingness to share means and methods. Something I always try to do and certainly take advantage of myself. This surgical tool, for podiatry I think, is absolutely perfect. My thanks to @Blue Ensign for sharing it. Two choices for replaceable blades: The wider chisel blade is thin, sharp and the perfect width for pushing through the moulding, keeping a clean edge on the remaining moulding either side. The smaller blade that opens up the slot for the strap perfectly. I have used this tool repeatedly for many varied purposes when my even my mini-Veritas chisels (@DelF) prove to large. A multi purpose sharp, light tool for model work. I have not yet tried them on my feet.
 
I have a wood chisel set for my lathe that until now were a bit too large to be useful. However one of those with a tight, sharp curved edge was perfect to notch and shape the moulding to match the channel. You can see the wood handle in the background, I failed to include it in the photo.
 
The tall height gauge, courtesy of @Stuntflyer, was very helpful in keeping the channels level with the waterline, I added the bubble level to make sure it was first level itself.  I need a better platform for it than a bowl, but it does the job. The tumblehome of the hull distorts what level seems just looking at it, the gauge brings it to actual level.

Long ago I acquired ebony deadeyes I wanted to use, however the center diameter of these proved too large for Chuck’s nice acrylic strops. So after splitting a few to learn that I went to Chuck’s make your own 5mm and 6mm versions. I still had a desire to go with ebony, but didn’t like my result just painting them black so I went with this ebony wood dye. With the thickness of water it takes 4 coats (and maybe still one more) to get them there, I like the  resulting look. It’s hard to tell in the photos but the boxwood grain still shows through and they look more “natural,” not perfectly black. The little paint stand is a strip of wood with the mill cutting a groove its length.
 
I didn’t take any photos of constructing the actual channels. Not much to it, just removing char, minimal shaping, and gluing together the three layers, and of course multiple coats of WOP.



So here where it stands. I’m going to wait until I have all the 5 and 6 mm deadeyes finished and both port and starboard channels installed before finishing these (including straightening the smiling faces) to ensure uniformity. Not too much to go on chapter 11 after that, I’ve been working on the gangways, posts and ladders in parallel to the channels so it's fitting and mounting them. I’m of mixed thoughts on the swivel guns - so decision deferred for now.
 
As always thanks for stopping by - I appreciate your taking the time with your likes and comments.

You could stop right here and it would be an amazing model.
 

You could stop right here and it would be an amazing model.
 

You could stop right here and it would be an amazing model.
 

Channels
 
Initial progress on channels, a really fun opportunity to cut away some of that moulding I so lovingly added a long time ago.

But before starting that I decided to bite the bullet to remove and replace the port lids. As I’ve mentioned a few times I have broken and glued back these lids too many times to count, all of course due to carelessness. It took some delicate work to remove them and the hinges without damaging the hull, especially the friezes.
 
This time I used the wider, thicker hinges @Chuck offers. Unlike I failed to do before I kept these movable rather than fixed.  I can now display these more like the right most port. My lesson learned is to install the port with both ends of the hinge on the lid, not one part on the hull and the other on the lid then threading the wire to connect them. This time I was able to keep the hinge tight enough to hold position. My first effort ended up with ‘floppy’ lids so I had to glue them into a fixed position, and by consequence made them vulnerable to my careless movements.
 
Though it took several days it was a good call to take this step back and get a better result. I’m happy to report the friezes all survived as did my sanity.

Well the friezes survived around the ports anyway.  Cutting away moulding the exact width and shape needed for the channels was pucker time, go slow, measure once, twice, three times before cutting, did I mention go slow. @FrankWouts was wise to factor this in at the time he installed his moulding, wish I’d thought of that.
 
I did remove and replace the frieze below the fore channel, it didn't prove necessary for the main and mizzen.

The beauty of this forum is the willingness to share means and methods. Something I always try to do and certainly take advantage of myself. This surgical tool, for podiatry I think, is absolutely perfect. My thanks to @Blue Ensign for sharing it. Two choices for replaceable blades: The wider chisel blade is thin, sharp and the perfect width for pushing through the moulding, keeping a clean edge on the remaining moulding either side. The smaller blade that opens up the slot for the strap perfectly. I have used this tool repeatedly for many varied purposes when my even my mini-Veritas chisels (@DelF) prove to large. A multi purpose sharp, light tool for model work. I have not yet tried them on my feet.
 
I have a wood chisel set for my lathe that until now were a bit too large to be useful. However one of those with a tight, sharp curved edge was perfect to notch and shape the moulding to match the channel. You can see the wood handle in the background, I failed to include it in the photo.
 
The tall height gauge, courtesy of @Stuntflyer, was very helpful in keeping the channels level with the waterline, I added the bubble level to make sure it was first level itself.  I need a better platform for it than a bowl, but it does the job. The tumblehome of the hull distorts what level seems just looking at it, the gauge brings it to actual level.

Long ago I acquired ebony deadeyes I wanted to use, however the center diameter of these proved too large for Chuck’s nice acrylic strops. So after splitting a few to learn that I went to Chuck’s make your own 5mm and 6mm versions. I still had a desire to go with ebony, but didn’t like my result just painting them black so I went with this ebony wood dye. With the thickness of water it takes 4 coats (and maybe still one more) to get them there, I like the  resulting look. It’s hard to tell in the photos but the boxwood grain still shows through and they look more “natural,” not perfectly black. The little paint stand is a strip of wood with the mill cutting a groove its length.
 
I didn’t take any photos of constructing the actual channels. Not much to it, just removing char, minimal shaping, and gluing together the three layers, and of course multiple coats of WOP.



So here where it stands. I’m going to wait until I have all the 5 and 6 mm deadeyes finished and both port and starboard channels installed before finishing these (including straightening the smiling faces) to ensure uniformity. Not too much to go on chapter 11 after that, I’ve been working on the gangways, posts and ladders in parallel to the channels so it's fitting and mounting them. I’m of mixed thoughts on the swivel guns - so decision deferred for now.
 
As always thanks for stopping by - I appreciate your taking the time with your likes and comments.

Well the move was completed after our new home was built on Oak Island.
The new model workshop/office is far smaller than my previous one at only 13x13 but I’m using shelving and other things to maximize space which is ongoing.
Winchelsea is now waiting for me to start Chapter 7 on the Quarter Deck hopefully in the next couple of weeks as soon as I find all the parts!

Channels
 
Initial progress on channels, a really fun opportunity to cut away some of that moulding I so lovingly added a long time ago.

But before starting that I decided to bite the bullet to remove and replace the port lids. As I’ve mentioned a few times I have broken and glued back these lids too many times to count, all of course due to carelessness. It took some delicate work to remove them and the hinges without damaging the hull, especially the friezes.
 
This time I used the wider, thicker hinges @Chuck offers. Unlike I failed to do before I kept these movable rather than fixed.  I can now display these more like the right most port. My lesson learned is to install the port with both ends of the hinge on the lid, not one part on the hull and the other on the lid then threading the wire to connect them. This time I was able to keep the hinge tight enough to hold position. My first effort ended up with ‘floppy’ lids so I had to glue them into a fixed position, and by consequence made them vulnerable to my careless movements.
 
Though it took several days it was a good call to take this step back and get a better result. I’m happy to report the friezes all survived as did my sanity.

Well the friezes survived around the ports anyway.  Cutting away moulding the exact width and shape needed for the channels was pucker time, go slow, measure once, twice, three times before cutting, did I mention go slow. @FrankWouts was wise to factor this in at the time he installed his moulding, wish I’d thought of that.
 
I did remove and replace the frieze below the fore channel, it didn't prove necessary for the main and mizzen.

The beauty of this forum is the willingness to share means and methods. Something I always try to do and certainly take advantage of myself. This surgical tool, for podiatry I think, is absolutely perfect. My thanks to @Blue Ensign for sharing it. Two choices for replaceable blades: The wider chisel blade is thin, sharp and the perfect width for pushing through the moulding, keeping a clean edge on the remaining moulding either side. The smaller blade that opens up the slot for the strap perfectly. I have used this tool repeatedly for many varied purposes when my even my mini-Veritas chisels (@DelF) prove to large. A multi purpose sharp, light tool for model work. I have not yet tried them on my feet.
 
I have a wood chisel set for my lathe that until now were a bit too large to be useful. However one of those with a tight, sharp curved edge was perfect to notch and shape the moulding to match the channel. You can see the wood handle in the background, I failed to include it in the photo.
 
The tall height gauge, courtesy of @Stuntflyer, was very helpful in keeping the channels level with the waterline, I added the bubble level to make sure it was first level itself.  I need a better platform for it than a bowl, but it does the job. The tumblehome of the hull distorts what level seems just looking at it, the gauge brings it to actual level.

Long ago I acquired ebony deadeyes I wanted to use, however the center diameter of these proved too large for Chuck’s nice acrylic strops. So after splitting a few to learn that I went to Chuck’s make your own 5mm and 6mm versions. I still had a desire to go with ebony, but didn’t like my result just painting them black so I went with this ebony wood dye. With the thickness of water it takes 4 coats (and maybe still one more) to get them there, I like the  resulting look. It’s hard to tell in the photos but the boxwood grain still shows through and they look more “natural,” not perfectly black. The little paint stand is a strip of wood with the mill cutting a groove its length.
 
I didn’t take any photos of constructing the actual channels. Not much to it, just removing char, minimal shaping, and gluing together the three layers, and of course multiple coats of WOP.



So here where it stands. I’m going to wait until I have all the 5 and 6 mm deadeyes finished and both port and starboard channels installed before finishing these (including straightening the smiling faces) to ensure uniformity. Not too much to go on chapter 11 after that, I’ve been working on the gangways, posts and ladders in parallel to the channels so it's fitting and mounting them. I’m of mixed thoughts on the swivel guns - so decision deferred for now.
 
As always thanks for stopping by - I appreciate your taking the time with your likes and comments.

You could stop right here and it would be an amazing model.
 

You could stop right here and it would be an amazing model.
 

Channels
 
Initial progress on channels, a really fun opportunity to cut away some of that moulding I so lovingly added a long time ago.

But before starting that I decided to bite the bullet to remove and replace the port lids. As I’ve mentioned a few times I have broken and glued back these lids too many times to count, all of course due to carelessness. It took some delicate work to remove them and the hinges without damaging the hull, especially the friezes.
 
This time I used the wider, thicker hinges @Chuck offers. Unlike I failed to do before I kept these movable rather than fixed.  I can now display these more like the right most port. My lesson learned is to install the port with both ends of the hinge on the lid, not one part on the hull and the other on the lid then threading the wire to connect them. This time I was able to keep the hinge tight enough to hold position. My first effort ended up with ‘floppy’ lids so I had to glue them into a fixed position, and by consequence made them vulnerable to my careless movements.
 
Though it took several days it was a good call to take this step back and get a better result. I’m happy to report the friezes all survived as did my sanity.

Well the friezes survived around the ports anyway.  Cutting away moulding the exact width and shape needed for the channels was pucker time, go slow, measure once, twice, three times before cutting, did I mention go slow. @FrankWouts was wise to factor this in at the time he installed his moulding, wish I’d thought of that.
 
I did remove and replace the frieze below the fore channel, it didn't prove necessary for the main and mizzen.

The beauty of this forum is the willingness to share means and methods. Something I always try to do and certainly take advantage of myself. This surgical tool, for podiatry I think, is absolutely perfect. My thanks to @Blue Ensign for sharing it. Two choices for replaceable blades: The wider chisel blade is thin, sharp and the perfect width for pushing through the moulding, keeping a clean edge on the remaining moulding either side. The smaller blade that opens up the slot for the strap perfectly. I have used this tool repeatedly for many varied purposes when my even my mini-Veritas chisels (@DelF) prove to large. A multi purpose sharp, light tool for model work. I have not yet tried them on my feet.
 
I have a wood chisel set for my lathe that until now were a bit too large to be useful. However one of those with a tight, sharp curved edge was perfect to notch and shape the moulding to match the channel. You can see the wood handle in the background, I failed to include it in the photo.
 
The tall height gauge, courtesy of @Stuntflyer, was very helpful in keeping the channels level with the waterline, I added the bubble level to make sure it was first level itself.  I need a better platform for it than a bowl, but it does the job. The tumblehome of the hull distorts what level seems just looking at it, the gauge brings it to actual level.

Long ago I acquired ebony deadeyes I wanted to use, however the center diameter of these proved too large for Chuck’s nice acrylic strops. So after splitting a few to learn that I went to Chuck’s make your own 5mm and 6mm versions. I still had a desire to go with ebony, but didn’t like my result just painting them black so I went with this ebony wood dye. With the thickness of water it takes 4 coats (and maybe still one more) to get them there, I like the  resulting look. It’s hard to tell in the photos but the boxwood grain still shows through and they look more “natural,” not perfectly black. The little paint stand is a strip of wood with the mill cutting a groove its length.
 
I didn’t take any photos of constructing the actual channels. Not much to it, just removing char, minimal shaping, and gluing together the three layers, and of course multiple coats of WOP.



So here where it stands. I’m going to wait until I have all the 5 and 6 mm deadeyes finished and both port and starboard channels installed before finishing these (including straightening the smiling faces) to ensure uniformity. Not too much to go on chapter 11 after that, I’ve been working on the gangways, posts and ladders in parallel to the channels so it's fitting and mounting them. I’m of mixed thoughts on the swivel guns - so decision deferred for now.
 
As always thanks for stopping by - I appreciate your taking the time with your likes and comments.

You could stop right here and it would be an amazing model.