druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Lovely neat joinery as usual! -
Just catching up with you, Alan. You'll be glad you corrected the orlop, as it would otherwise affect the line and clearance of the deck above and.... Drilling hawse holes is a very iffy thing, as you've discovered. Years ago I figured out a new strategy: I filed half-round grooves in the hawse pieces before assembling them on the model. The diameter was just slightly undersize and just required touch-up filing to final size. No chance of tear out or breaking off a hawse piece, plus the upward angle and parallelism to the keel of the hole was established and controlled.
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Impressive photo!
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You will have as many opinions as there are model-makers! If longevity is not a concern, then.... anything goes. For stability, hollow wood is a better choice. either hollow lifts, or plank on bulkhead. Other than the species already mentioned, another possibility is yellow cedar, if you can get it in your area. It is a nice stable wood easy to work with a pleasant odour when cut.
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Likewise. A little late to the party, but... A lovely model of an unusual subject. Well done, Geert!
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And... the magic begins to show! Lovely work, as ever, Gary. Off topic, the eclipse: If one believes that it is all a coincidence in size and distance.... BTW, in Niagara we were almost totally cloud covered that day. Sigh.
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That is such a pity. I do understand why you would want to re-make the spar. At least a topgallant has fewer parts attached than a lower yard!
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Use just one elastic band per frame, over the frame. Use a small piece of scrap under it as necessary. If the plank is wet bent, it really shouldn't need a lot of force to hold it in place.
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The diagonal joint is great when there will be a lot of stress on the finished item. In your case I suspect the load will be minimal!
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Two points: One, if you aren't happy with something now, you won't be happy with it later! Two, use rubbing alcohol not only to debond, but also to soften and remove any residual glue squeeze-out later, if you missed a bit. Glad that you are enjoying the experience and the challenge.
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Welcome back, mini-me, to minier-me! Nice to read a good-news story for a change! Thanks, Chuck.
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Thank you, Wefalk! It brought back memories when, as a five-year old child, I was fascinated by the moving eccentrics and connecting rods in the open engine room. The smell of hot oil.... This was on a Vierwaldstättersee steamer. I think a model of one of those would be a very interesting subject..
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It looks as if you've mastered drafting and lofting as well, Tiziano. A great beginning.
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French 64 Gun Ship 1729 by Jeronimo
druxey replied to Jeronimo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Terrific work! -
It was a good decision to reglue those frames now. If you hadn't, it would be guaranteed to come back and bite you later!
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Boxwood is nowhere as easily bent as either basswood, holly or yellow cedar. But you know that already!
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Any remaining twist should correct itself once the building board and frames are put together with the bottom boards added.
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If you go to the Royal Museums Greenwich site, there are many open boat plans showing davits and windlasses. An example:
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Late to the party; the soldering should be on the straight part of the loop, not the end. Failure rate should be much lower.
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Looking very ship-shape, Chuck. Have a great weekend. Wish I was there!
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HMS RESOLUTION 1667 by KarenM
druxey replied to KarenM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Looking great. The flare at the bow is quite dramatic!
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