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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    It would be better not to use lead for a number of health related reasons, as well as the possibility of the cast lead pieces turning to lead salts later on. I recommend taking a mold in RTV rubber from your master pattern and casting with lead-free pewter. All you need is available through such companies as Micro Mark. Please read up on metal casting techniques. You need to have risers to allow air to escape and observe other safety precautions.
  2. druxey
    A washer! Brilliant and simple. Terrific idea, Remco.
  3. druxey
    Do a few each day and watch the 'done' pile grow!
  4. druxey
    It's difficult to appreciate how small the scale and model is in the photos, unless there is something else in the picture to compare it to. The rigging at this scale is very, very impressive!
  5. druxey
    For certain hull forms, one can control the shape better with closer spaced frames, particularly at the bow and stern. Also, there is greater area to land and attach planking to. However, as already mentioned, it's all a matter of taste.
  6. druxey
    I assume the transom issue was simply not taking the bevel on the top edge into account? She's looking good so far!
  7. druxey
    Aren't those lodging knees fun? Nicely done.
  8. druxey
    Mini electrical transformer wire can go down to extremely fine gauges.
  9. druxey
    From the sublime to the ridiculous in scale, Michael. You excel at both ends of the spectrum!
  10. druxey
    I agree with Mark's posting. This holds for British 18th century grating dimensions. I also read somewhere that the hole size had to be less than the size of a shoe heel.
  11. druxey
    I think you are on track with your keel/false keel joints, except you might wish to shift the joints of the false keel aft. The first section likely to touch would be aft, so that might be shorter. As the false keel joints do not contribute to the structural integrity of the ship, it's not critical to stagger them exactly half-way between the keel joints. I'd keep any keel taper to the cant frame areas as well. Good stuff, Joss P.S. Some of us like history: those that don't will skip it anyway!
  12. druxey
    Just came across your impressive log, Stelios. It's always refreshing to see something more unusual as a subject.
  13. druxey
    Microcrystalline wax is much better than beeswax for rigging as well. Enjoying your build log very much, Mati, since I discovered it!
  14. druxey
    Thanks, Gary. Ain't this all fun? Then there's Hornet's planking scheme, direct from the builder's yard: ZAZ5119. And on it goes….
  15. druxey
    Thanks, Gary. I'm sure that there were variations on the theme as you describe. I suspect that the upper deck, exposed to weather, wore more quickly than the lower gun deck. This might explain the layout on Tremendous. ZAZ7908 shows long planks in an undated 74, obviously earlier than 1800. On a related note, Montague, 1779 has wonderful drawings of part of her side planking that needed replacement. These drawings were obviously done as a record in the shipyard at the time. Go to the NMM site: 'Collections'>'Search'>'Montague 1779'.
  16. druxey
    My understanding is that on gun decks the planks were laid in shorter pieces, often top and butt, under the where the trucks ran. Worn pieces could then be replaced without lifting a 24' 0" or 28' 0" long plank.
  17. druxey
    While I've had proportional dividers in my kit for years, I confess that I've very rarely used them. I use a drawn proportional radiating scale on paper. Much cheaper! Just find the spot along the converging outer lines that equals the space you want to divide up - in regular or irregular fashion - and mark off the divisions on a strip of paper at right angles to the radiating lines. The marks are then transferred to wherever you want them. (The example shown is for dividing a square into an octagon.)
  18. druxey
    Generally speaking, I think you'll find that parallel laid planking came in once sawmills were established. This would be around 1800. It was easy to cut parallel sided lumber using a circular saw. Before that, everything was cut by handsaw. Also, naturally growing, slightly curved lumber was converted with less waste and would be stronger with the grain running along the curve.
  19. druxey
    Very, very impressive!
  20. druxey
    Very neatly done so far, Rob.
  21. druxey
    Looks very entertaining, Sam!
  22. druxey
    Looking terrific, Toni. And I feel so much better, knowing that the track for the door is there, even if no-one can see it
  23. druxey
    Well done, Remco. One can't always anticipate every item ahead of one. We all miss some and then have to work on something that, were we to slip….
  24. druxey
    Thanks for your comments and beveling measurements, Ed. Pre-beveling frames before erection is, as you say, theoretical. For people like yourself who work to a high degree of accuracy, it will work out beautifully, provided that the lofting and cutting is correct. For lesser mortals this is maybe not such a good idea!
  25. druxey
    Sweet, Ed! Of course there would be less fairing required, as the hull form means less extreme bevels. Yet another reason to choose the 19th over 18th century framed models!

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