Jump to content
HOLIDAY DONATION DRIVE - SUPPORT MSW - DO YOUR PART TO KEEP THIS GREAT FORUM GOING! (Only 72 donations so far out of 49,000 members - Can we at least get 100? C'mon guys!) ×
2025 NRG PHOTOGRAPHIC SHIP MODEL CONTEST WINNERS ANNOUNCED ×
Ship Modeler's Handbook - Back in Stock ×

druxey

NRG Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    13,323

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    We are all nervous when trying a new thing or technique for the first time. I was terrified of silver soldering until I actually did it. It really wasn't so bad. Just remember not to touch metal until it's good and cool! Soon you won't think about it twice when annealing.
  2. druxey
    There could be a sliding cover. However, hinged covers were often made in two halves, not a single piece as in the Marquandt illustration. Open, they took up less real estate and each half was, well, half the weight to lift. Harriet's sliding cover, 1843 (Royal Museums Greenwich) Of course, the cover could simply be grating for ventilation and a solid cover for heavy weather. The indication of the rabbet in the coaming suggests that this was the likely arrangement in this case. The 'extra' coaming on the sheer and profile that you show might be for a sliding cover. I am confused as deck plan says 'as fitted' and the sheer and profile 'as taken off' on the same date. Did the draftsman simply forget to add the aft extension, or was it fitted after the deck plan was drawn up?
  3. druxey
    I understand your position on this. You need to be happy and satisfied with your work, however good it may appear to others. Looking forward to your second start.
  4. druxey
    The model in question was Albertic, and Michael did an excellent job.
  5. druxey
    I'm sorry that you are not happy with your work so far. It looks to be of very high quality to my eye. What exactly is unsatisfactory?
  6. druxey
    In the 1920's, fish and animal based glues were common. Builders' models used various species of pine for the hulls, usually of hollow laminated form. Details were fabricated from brass (often electroplated) and so-called Bermuda boxwood (Castello) or European box. Paints were solvent-based and lacquer and shellac often used for finishes. I'm curious as to the state of the model that you are looking to conserve. Are you able to give more details or photos?
  7. druxey
    No, don't give up, You have to be specific to get a specific answer. So: 1) Date or date range 2) Nationality (don't assume we know!) 3) In the case of a doorway, where in the vessel? The answer will be different if it's in the hold/platforms, a gun deck or weather deck. The more defined the question, the better the responses will be.
  8. druxey
    Reduce sheen with Dullcoat or matt varnish. Looking very neatly done.
  9. druxey
    Can you post a photo or two of the bowsprit? Then we can assess how best to proceed.
  10. druxey
    All's well that ends well? Looks really good, Maury.
  11. druxey
    Small point: there was usually one bolt through each frame timber rather than each strake of planking. However, you've fitted the hooks very nicely.
  12. druxey
    Lovely work as usual. The last photo showing the flare of the bulwarks above the forecastle beams is particularly pleasing.
  13. druxey
    Just stumbled across your build(s), Chris. Interesting subjects and they look great so far.
  14. druxey
    Moody Blues, eh? The mast looks good, and the blocks nice and neatly stropped as well as shaped.
  15. druxey
    If the board has twisted....
  16. druxey
    The crème brulée torch will be fine for annealing small pieces. If you already use that, you're good to go.
  17. druxey
    Looking lovely, Toni. However, might I point out that the bollard timberheads are extensions of the bollard timbers themselves? This means that their athwartship faces are parallel to the keel, not at right angles to the sheer rail. That way they have a bearing face on each side of the bowsprit.
  18. druxey
    Part of the beauty of a wooden ship model is the hand craftsmanship, not a machine-perfect finish! Those bollard timbers and cross-chock look just fine.
  19. druxey
    Usually lower deadeyes were half the 'given diameter' (maximum) of the mast.
  20. druxey
    Welcome aboard, Mike!
  21. druxey
    Keith: you are correct. Epoxy is relatively insoluble in acetone, whereas CA is. Either way, acetone is nasty stuff. Only use in a very well ventilated space, no heat or flame in the vicinity and, preferably, with a NIOSH (cartridge) mask. A softened brass rod and jewelers' hammer are my preference!
  22. druxey
    Seems a rather desperate way to get free quality tweezers, Roger. But to each their own....
  23. druxey
    Same old story - you get what you pay for. Please consider investing in the best you can afford. If you buy cheap , you will need to replace and junk the cheapy anyway.
  24. druxey
    Brass needs to be softened before it can be 'molded' - in this case riveted over. On a heat-proof surface you need to heat the rod to cherry -red (easier to see in dim light) and let it air-cool. This softening process is called annealing. Metal is much easier to cut and form after annealing. You can use a mini butane torch for this or (a bit of overkill!) a regular propane torch. Only cut a piece of rod a little bit longer than the finished length. In the above photo the piece is much too long. It should only protrude about 1/64" longer on each side before tapping the ends over on a hard surface. And yes, a set of broaches is a very useful thing to have around! Never force metal into wood. But you know that already. For cutting, a razor saw works well on softened brass. A small jewelers' hammer is another very useful item to have.
  25. druxey
    PVA only works on porous materials such as wood. For metals, you have to use either epoxy (my preference) or cyanoacrylic glues.

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)

Helpful Links

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem ®

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

Nautical Research Guild ® and the NRG logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,999,236 & No. 6,999,237, registered March 14, 2023)

×
×
  • Create New...