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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Apparently more than about 25 degrees of rudder become ineffective: the rudder then acts like a brake. So I think that you are safe, Mark! Read Hutchinson: http://www.bruzelius.info/Nautica/Seamanship/Hutchinson(1777)_p38.html
  2. druxey
    An interesting analysis. I skim read the paper only!
  3. druxey
    I think that you are correct, Tony. Great image for detail, though!
  4. druxey
    This is looking very nice and neat, Clare.
  5. druxey
    The other reason for that forward extension was for a spot that the leadsman could stand on while taking soundings.
  6. druxey
    Well summarized, wefalck!
  7. druxey
    So good to see you back and the considerable progress that you have made. Beautifully done!
  8. druxey
    Oh, Andrew!! How could you? Thanks for the laugh. That must be the mots 'd'heure oeuf oiel d'eux. But we digress.
  9. druxey
    Very convincing, Steven! Well done. Oh: and just noticed your mot juste; d'accord!
  10. druxey
    Don't make the assumption that she's on an even keel in the photo: that will affect apparent relative levels of bow and stern.
  11. druxey
    Sand bevels with a sanding stick; you have much more control.
  12. druxey
    The stopper came undone, Chris? That's a new one for me! I'm sorry but I laughed; it was one of those "If anything can possibly go wrong..." things. Anyway, I'm glad it's successfully fixed now. Looks good.
  13. druxey
    Why the need to seal at all?
  14. druxey
    Every ship was slightly different, even in the same class. The 'as launched' plans are accurate for the specific ship, as a record of its actual construction. This would be very useful when it came time to repair the vessel.
  15. druxey
    We feel your pain, Chris. Is it simply undoing the laniards, swapping the shrouds over and untangling them, then re-reeving the laniards? If so, it isn't that bad, surely?
  16. druxey
    Welcome aboard!
  17. druxey
    Whenever glueing a thin wood piece using a glue with water content, dampen the opposite side first to counteract the tendency to bow or cup.
  18. druxey
    And, if not, the quarter piece would cover and protect the plank ends.
  19. druxey
    Thanks for this, Bruce!
  20. druxey
    Sweet!
  21. druxey
    The models may have omitted the rabbetted fashion piece as it is a pain to make (I know this from experience!) It involves a continuously changing rabbet angle on the fore side, and another for the transom planks aft. I'm sure that the real ships were fitted this way, as exposed end grain wood deteriorates rapidly when exposed.
  22. druxey
    ClipperFan: the usual underlay (again, for naval vessels) was tarred felt.
  23. druxey
    It appears that merchant practice in coppering (Muntz as you point out) differed from that used by the navy.
  24. druxey
    Feather out? Do you mean make gains until the planks are flush with each other into the rabbet? If so, that is the correct way it was done. Also, there was a rabbet in the fashion piece to protect the plank ends from rot.
  25. druxey
    It was common practice (in naval dockyards, at least) to launch, check for any leaky seams, drydock, seal, then copper the bottom. Otherwise it would be harder to detect the source of water ingress and a pain to remove the copper to caulk the offending seam(s.)

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