druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Terrific work, as usual, Danny. I'm sorry that you are having difficulty continuing. If you can't complete this model, I hope you know someone who can and do both the model and you justice.- 29 replies
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- hmw
- Hamburg Harbor
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I've seen the results of stereolithography (cannon in various scales) and they are very impressive. See: https://modelshipwrightsofniagara.weebly.com/monthly-meeting-blog June 19, 2019 and the cannon shown on May 12, 2019
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Bellona being a goddess of war, she would not have been unarmed! A sword of some sort in her right hand and shield in her left. I'd be pretty confident that the original figure had those.
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A question about glue.
druxey replied to danbloch's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Like the other gentlemen say! -
Sure grooves help align the frames, but my 'aha' moment came when removing a boat and half the frames stayed on the plug! Had to glue them into the shell anyway.
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When I first made open boats, my molds were made with grooves for the frames. I realised later that I didn't need to do that: I simply built the planks, edge glued over a plain mold. After freeing the shell, I bent in the frames (this is at 1:48 scale). Works just fine and saves a lot of work. Clinker boats can be built in the same way. The only critical points are: a) The planks must be accurately spiled b) the fit between strakes be really tight in the case of the carvel hull
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The process of lofting frames is too long to describe here. Look it up. It's an interesting process.
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Not only do I enjoy looking in on your log and progress, but this little piece of etymology is fun to learn about as well!
- 81 replies
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- egyptian
- byblos ship
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Glad the mullions worked out: it makes such a difference to the overall appearance of the model!
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Don't drop the thread, Steven! That will cause the same issue of skinny planks, but just move it down. Two drop planks under the wale illustrated in the photo.
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- Tudor
- restoration
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Aft looks pretty nice to my eye. Forward is good, other than you may need to 'drop' a strake or two under the wale to avoid plank ends of the upper belt becoming too skinny into the bow rabbet.
- 740 replies
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- Tudor
- restoration
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Good start. There'll be time later to dress the wood. Now, remember to paint or wax the ends and sticker the slabs for even air circulation!
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Actually, good quality holly is becoming scarcer and scarcer. Get as much as you can and, if you have excess, give some to your model-making friends.It'll guarantee their admiration and affection for you!
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Well, one could leave the framing fully (or partially) exposed on one side and completely plank the other as a compromise.
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The base of the roundhouse (and actual seat) is set at beakhead platform level.
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I don't think that the head was part of the beakhead platform. It was beside it at upper deck level. See: https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/81298.html https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/81196.html and, in particular https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/81164.html
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Well, you could thin the aft deadwood a bit, or just live with a slightly 'fat' stern post.
- 740 replies
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- Tudor
- restoration
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Oh dear. Taking things apart is not much fun, Karl!
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If you absolutely have to use lead, please seal it with clear finish. With time and air it will deteriorate to white lead salts. That's ugly! If you can substitute non-lead metal such as pewter, so much the better.
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- le gros ventre
- cargo
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Yup, that's what happens to the log if not processed promptly. However, if you can access your neighbour's saw soon, that is much better! Read up on quarter sawing as well.
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The lines converge too much at the bow. You will have strakes that taper to points. Let the first thread above the keel end at about bulkhead 2 and space out the other threads above. If you read Antscherl's advice, you'll see that the garboard strake ends just where the stem begins to rise, which you do indicate. Aft, the strakes should spread out over the deadwood all the way down to the keel, or you will end up with splinter thin strake ends there as well. The lower edge of the garboard should be parallel to the top of the keel.
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- Tudor
- restoration
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