druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Nice, but how do you play this game?
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Yes, Mark, the lead was usually carried over the bolster or naval hood in a sort of semi-circular tongue shape. The outer edge of the bolster was usually radiused off, which is not shown in your Bellona hawse hole photo. above. I found that, using a flat sable brush, I could paint the port edges quite neatly by putting the brush against the surface to be painted, then drawing the brush toward me in a single movement. That way, no paint should land on the outside of the planks. On the rare instances it did (usually due to an overloaded brush!) I waited for the paint to dry, then scraped it carefully off with a scalpel blade. See the photo and judge for yourself.
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If the floats are identical, you could always make mold of it and cast the second one in resin.
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A lovely model of an ugly character!
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Very nice, Chris! Love the hatchets.
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Brilliant weathering, Gary! You said: "Weathered vertical surfaces typically display less damage at the top than at the bottom." Too true! Today I hacked out 6" of rotted wood at the bottom of an outside door frame and am replacing it. The house is only seven years old.
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Mini Lathe recommendations?
druxey replied to jfinan's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I use my small lathes (a Unimat DB200 and a Boley watchmakers') for turning belaying pins, master patterns for cannon, parrel trucks, deadeyes and mast coats. Never for masts and spars. They are always done by the old-fashioned four-square, eight-square then rounding off where needed using sandpaper strips. As pointed out, you'd need a longer bed lathe anyway, and your dollars (or whatever currency you use) could go to buy a lot of other tools or wood instead! -
Quite remarkable, Danny.
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I believe that, on many vessels of this size, where there were compound curved entryway covers over the companion to the not-so-great Great Cabin, these were of copper. The RMG model of Speedwell has such a copper hood. Lead would be too soft for this purpose.
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Interesting method of finding plumb! As a professor of mine used to say "If it works, it works".
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Well, it comes in from aft. Also, this is the arrangement seen on other ships, so must have worked.
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I can't help thinking that the shipwrights cheated the preventer plate up a few inches to avoid the seam. The area above gun deck port #11 looks pretty crowded! That the lower end of the plate is secured below the wale is not unusual: you will need to 'kink' the plate to match the contour of the side. I had to do this on Polyphemus years ago.
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Blackening the guns?
druxey replied to dafi's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
Please see my comments about cannon on your other thread, Dafi. -
A model of the ketch-rigged sloop Speedwell, 1752, in the RMG collection has pin rails lashed to the lower shrouds. No sign of shroud cleats on this model, though. See: https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/66296.html Love the term 'turnpinns', Mark!
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Fine friezework at that scale, Dafi. Well done! The guns were iron, not bronze. Bronze was too expensive for the government coffers. The last ship to be fitted with bronze cannon throughout was the previous Victory, sunk in 1737. Most of her cannon are still on the sea bed in the English Channel.
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For those building a model of Speedwell, there is a correction needed to the text on page 30, last line. This should read: The keel and false keel taper in thickness through the area of the cant frames. They taper from 12" to 8" at the stern and to 10" at the bow. Thanks to Davyboy for bringing this to my attention.
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Very nicely done, Tony.
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Hmmm. What if you have four instead of five strakes below the sheer strake? What happens on the lower gun deck at port #11 when trying to install the port lid laniards? Sorry to pick holes in your argument, Mark! Check the plan for Hero: the preventers are set higher above the ports than that design plan for Bellona. Also, see the bolts relative to the ports in the Bellona model photo: https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/66299.html
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VERY GOOD POINT, Dave!!!! All readers please make a note and remember this, if you weren't aware of the risk.
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Certainly pin racks are seen on contemporary rigged models of smaller ships in the mid-18th century. Vasa has them on the beakhead a century earlier. It appears that, as bulwarks were closed in and the rows of timberheads and open rails disappeared, pins and pin racks were substituted for belaying to.
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Deck planking plans
druxey replied to KingDavid's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Also notice that on the model shown above, the planking is not parallel throughout, but tapers fore and aft outside of the central deck furniture. This was usual until the use of power sawmills in the early to mid 1800's. 'Joggling' into the waterway was also a 19th century development. Before that, planks were 'hooked' into each other at their ends instead. However, most models simplify planking patterns. -
Plank lengths did vary. Perhaps you planked yourself in (bad joke) by trying to keep them constant! In the Strel example above, you'll see all butts fall more-or-less halfway between ports. Also, try to avoid very short end planks fore and aft where possible.
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Mast Partners in ships of the line
druxey replied to michaelpsutton2's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Given diameter is usually at the highest continuous deck that the mast passes through. -
With all due respect, that painting shown in post #293 is not by Pocock but a comparatively modern one by Wylie. Viewer beware!
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