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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Well saved, Eric. The 'fixes' are part of the toolbox of the superior modelmaker.
  2. druxey
    Earlier (English) naval ships' treenail diameters were in proportion to the ship's length. I seem to recall the figure of 1" diameter for ever 100' 0" of keel. A sloop of 96' 0" had ⅞" diameter treenails, for example.
  3. druxey
    I'm sorry to read of your loss. My condolences. What did you use to secure the paper pattern to the board with? And, speaking of the board, you might find MDF more stable.It is not liable to warp or change dimension. Your plank will expand and contract across the grain considerable with humidity changes. This may account for the wrinkling across your pattern.
  4. druxey
    You would not want that crashing down! Your paper cannon are quite remarkable, Doris. I agree that those lines are halyards, not for hoisting boats. There were tackles from the lower yard arms and on the main stay for handling ship's boats.
  5. druxey
    Very nice progress, Gary. If you want an easy way to round those rivet heads and keep your sanity, I believe that you can obtain cup burrs in small sizes. An example: https://www.eternaltools.com/cup-burrs
  6. druxey
    Whew! I'm glad that you don't have to jacket those blocks, Keith. And that you can present visual evidence to the contrary.
  7. druxey
    Got it, Chris. However, still keep your keel straight with longitudinal battens. You won't regret it.
  8. druxey
    Keith: we must have had the same teacher. When i asked why, I was told it stopped dust settling in the slots....
  9. druxey
    Aren't they kept nice and cosy in their little leather jackets! Impressive custom leatherwork, though. A horrible thought just occurred to me Keith: they are challenging you do the same with your blocks!
  10. druxey
    Yes, we are following this closely!
  11. druxey
    I did a double take when I saw those leather covered blocks.
  12. druxey
    Hinge man? Hinged - or perhaps unhinged! Seriously, that's lovely work on those hinges.
  13. druxey
    Very fine silver tube and rod are available through jewelers' supply houses. Easier to cut than SS hypodermic needles! e.g: TUBING sterling silver 1.5mm 14GA
  14. druxey
    Please use your building board with retaining strips each side to keep your keel straight. You'll need that board for erecting the framing anyway. Once some longitudinal timbers are on, the keel will remain straight.
  15. druxey
    A fascinating discussion, gentlemen!
  16. druxey
    Pretty impressive work at that size! Must have been fun with trial and error in determining cutting parameters. Your lacquer 'gluing' technique is interesting. How much time does that allow for adjustment?
  17. druxey
    Luvverly!
  18. druxey
    Very, very nice rework, Michael.
  19. druxey
    If using ply, the 'sandwich' needs to be a balanced one with an equal number of layers each side of the central core. If it isn't, it will warp. That's why veneered pieces always have a counter-veneer on the opposite side.
  20. druxey
    Looking good, Kevin! One forgets that in certain parts of the world termites are a consideration.
  21. druxey
    And the world does not need yet another Victory model!
  22. druxey
    Thanks for the comment, Steven.
  23. druxey
    Lovely work on both, as ever!
  24. druxey
    I believe that those gaps between the frames and planks are deliberate: water can flow to the lowest point in the boat to be bailed out.
  25. druxey
    Question: would there have been anchor chain used at that time, or rope line?

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