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druxey

NRG Member
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Everything posted by druxey

  1. We all screw up at times! It's normal and how we learn. Figuring out how to correct the screw-up is the challenge. If you need help - ask!
  2. Thanks for explaining the modification to those shiny trucks that you are contemplating. Then they won't draw the eye.
  3. An interesting project! I note that the rudder shape is now different and therefore not original. Mast and bowsprit look very skinny as well. Mast was also shorter: you can check by taking the angle off the photo from stern of the hull to the mast top. Apply the same angle from the model's stern and where it intersects with the mast will give you the correct height. Simple triangulation.
  4. I should add that the master shipwright on Swallow - Toni - has done a very nice job on the layout of the deck planking.
  5. I'm not sure if and where I read it, Bruce, but observed this feature on some contemporary museum models many years ago. It makes sense, just as the rule for not cutting away any framing timber to 'make' the sides of a gun port.
  6. Good question. Yes, the rule is that if any plank is cut into by more than half its width, then the neighbouring plank is widened instead. This is to address a strength issue.
  7. Yes, I was wondering about the metal rimmed (solid metal?) trucks on the carriages as well. The model is looking great as the details bring it to life.
  8. Always nice to see an unusual subject modeled!
  9. Ah! That's why. I could not locate a deck plan for Bellona; it must be filed under Dragon. Thanks, Mark. Definitely grist for further research.
  10. Congratulations on laying her keel, Christian. The curtain has risen!
  11. I meant if you had a ZAZ number for the plan, Mark! Sorry if I was unclear. I always thought that the outer plank thickness at the stern was concealed behind ( i.e. forward of) the dummy light and munion. Also, unless the captain was extremely obese, the seat would be quite wide enough to comfortably ensconce himself in a seaway!
  12. Those counter timbers look a little thick in siding to my eye. Also as per the illustration posted above, usually the counter timbers slope slightly inward.
  13. Where did you find out that the outer plank within the quarter gallery was thinner than the outer planking, please? Can you quote the drawing? This is something new to me.
  14. That was a small fortune back then!
  15. Quite an achievement, Keith: 96 holes, no drill breakage and no evidence of the drill bit wandering either! Well done.
  16. Just stumbled across your log: an interesting hybrid! This is a bit late in the day to mention this to you, but frames normally were set at right angles to the keel, not the waterline. Just for you remember for your next model!
  17. Lovely! And those belaying pins look so much better now.
  18. I've seen contemporary models with both open and solid balcony rails, Mark. Polyphemus, 64 of 1781 definitely showed a closed rail on the 'as built' draught. Take your pick! The serpentine rails are more graceful though, I think. When it comes to projection drawing, it's much easier to correct one aspect at a time. Trying to juggle and correct for round aft, aft slope etc. at the same time leads to nervous breakdowns!
  19. My understanding is that they were usually parallel to the keel and angled upward and in at about 10 degrees or so. This would apply to hawse pieces that are erected parallel to the keel, the usual arrangement. In the photo above, the model's hawse pieces on both sides (which are framed differently) are canted, which would explain the holes running at the same angles as the hawse pieces.
  20. Your display of her side through time is very impressive. Congratulations on a very fine job of research as well as painting. The rigged fore chains with stowed anchor presentation looks intriguing. The Augsburg show would have been fun to attend!
  21. Knot nice. "It's just a lignin wound"! Again, lovely work on those shields.
  22. A good improvement visually, Maury. About beeswax: from my reading, it's a bit of an old wives' tale that has been passed down generations of ship modelers. It is acidic in pH, so eventually.... If you must wax, use Renaissance wax, which is pH neutral.
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