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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Don't drop the thread, Steven! That will cause the same issue of skinny planks, but just move it down. Two drop planks under the wale illustrated in the photo.
  2. druxey
    Aft looks pretty nice to my eye. Forward is good, other than you may need to 'drop' a strake or two under the wale to avoid plank ends of the upper belt becoming too skinny into the bow rabbet.
  3. druxey
    Good start. There'll be time later to dress the wood. Now, remember to paint or wax the ends and sticker the slabs for even air circulation!
  4. druxey
    Actually, good quality holly is becoming scarcer and scarcer. Get as much as you can and, if you have excess, give some to your model-making friends.It'll guarantee their admiration and affection for you!
  5. druxey
    I like that work hardening technique!
  6. druxey
    Well, one could leave the framing fully (or partially) exposed on one side and completely plank the other as a compromise.
  7. druxey
    The base of the roundhouse (and actual seat) is set at beakhead platform level.
  8. druxey
    It's just a flesh wound!"
  9. druxey
    I don't think that the head was part of the beakhead platform. It was beside it at upper deck level. See: https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/81298.html https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/81196.html and, in particular https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/81164.html
  10. druxey
    Well, you could thin the aft deadwood a bit, or just live with a slightly 'fat' stern post.
  11. druxey
    Oh dear. Taking things apart is not much fun, Karl!
  12. druxey
    If you absolutely have to use lead, please seal it with clear finish. With time and air it will deteriorate to white lead salts. That's ugly! If you can substitute non-lead metal such as pewter, so much the better.
  13. druxey
    Yup, that's what happens to the log if not processed promptly. However, if you can access your neighbour's saw soon, that is much better! Read up on quarter sawing as well.
  14. druxey
    The lines converge too much at the bow. You will have strakes that taper to points. Let the first thread above the keel end at about bulkhead 2 and space out the other threads above. If you read Antscherl's advice, you'll see that the garboard strake ends just where the stem begins to rise, which you do indicate. Aft, the strakes should spread out over the deadwood all the way down to the keel, or you will end up with splinter thin strake ends there as well. The lower edge of the garboard should be parallel to the top of the keel.
  15. druxey
    If you don't cut it soon, it will split as it dries. Slab it as soon as you can. Of, course, winter cutting when the sap is down is the ideal. Now is not the best time of year.
  16. druxey
    Welcome to MSW, FWS!
  17. druxey
    Well, the Swedish employed Frederick Chapman, son of a British naval officer, so I'm sure that there was a fair bit of trading of ideas and personnel between nations in terms of design. I'm sure that, as an Irishman, that gentleman was more than happy to design against the British!
  18. druxey
    So, the truss tensioning method is what later was termed a 'Spanish windlass' I believe. Lovely work on your model. It has an air of authenticity about it.
  19. druxey
    I used to have a Dumore sensitive drill press....
  20. druxey
    Very neat metalwork, Maury!
  21. druxey
    True enough, Jim. Very few knew how to swim. But falling off the bowsprit while at anchor, unless he was unusually clumsy if he was not drunk?
  22. druxey
    The best way to tell if the light is real or dummy is to see at what level it sits relative to the decks.
  23. druxey
    My condolences on the loss of your favorite drill bit. Certainly outlived its expected life span, though. Glad the flag locker will now work out for you.
  24. druxey
    Perhaps he was drunk?
  25. druxey
    Looking very nice, Mark. Thank goodness there's a bit of wiggle room to even out that channel wale if you need to!

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