Jump to content

druxey

NRG Member
  • Posts

    12,663
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by druxey

  1. Welcome, Dean. I had similar experiences to Chris Coyle (see above) which I why I started building ship models. Those balsa planes kept crashing! Hopefully yours didn't - the model ones, I mean!
  2. 'Shoal' is also sometimes spelled as 'sole'. I suppose it depended on the writer's degree of sobriety!
  3. Nicely lofted frames, G.L. A safety note: Never cast molten metal into a plaster mold unless the mold is completely dry! Moisture can turn instantly to steam, spraying molten metal at you. I recommend drying out the plaster in an oven at very low warming temperature.
  4. Excellent 3D fly-around renderings on this site! There is an auto-translate feature that came up on my screen. Thanks for bringing this to our attention, Matle.
  5. Model Expo is coming out with a series of 'real' boat kits. Each is a progressive skill-building kit. The first one is an East Coast dory.
  6. It appears that the floor riders are located at 10.8, 12.2, 13.5. 15.7 and 17.7. The futtock riders rise adjacent to these as high as the gun deck. (The Leopard illustration you posted confuses these as being single continuous items, which they are not!) The items at 2 and 3 are not riders but crutches. I strongly recommend you read a book on construction of the period such as Longridge's Anatomy of Nelson's Ships, Goodwin's The Sailing Man of War or Antscherl's The Fully Framed Model.
  7. Welcome to the club, Bhupi! You'll find more advice here than you can possibly use.
  8. Recovery of parts of Invincible, including the knee of the head, sunk in 1759: https://www.bbc.com/news/av/uk-england-dorset-50747903/revolutionary-18th-century-naval-ship-to-go-on-display-in-poole
  9. Original armament, according to Lyon's The Sailing Navy List, was 10 4 pounders and 12 swivels. 4 18 pounder carronades 'were to be added'. I would trust Lyon over Winfield, with all due respect to both gentlemen!
  10. I'm sure that there were local variations, but they were generally longer and much thinner than seen on most models. The handles would be less than 2" in diameter (try grabbing a chunky one in your hand!) and the overall length about 18" long. See: https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/3892.html
  11. Good advice all round! You don't really need a watchmakers' lathe unless you are doing extremely fine, accurate work like welfalck. The Unimat SL will be more than adequate, once you learn how to use it. I managed without the WW spindle and collets for years on my SL and was able to turn out quite respectable work. For high precision you will need more sophisticated equipment. But, are you really going to make fine gearwork?
  12. Those quarter gallery lights can be a real challenge. The geometry is quite strange to wrap one's head around. However, you seem to be getting the better of them! Nice looking moggies, too.
  13. Some contemporary models have blue or blue-grey painted 'slates' with white outlined edges. At least one model that I've seen has tiles with a central raised line like the vein on a leaf.
  14. I had no idea that Seccotine was still available. I remember it (and its distinctive odour!) from my childhood modelling days. Ratlines are usually tied using clove hitches, but at such a small scale your suggestion will look much neater and be a bit quicker! Those shortbread cookies will give you the energy for the job.
  15. 'Tabled in the meeting edges' clinches the newest illustration as correct for me, Allan.
  16. And they are actually miniature Swiss files (about 4 ½" long instead of 6").
  17. It appears to be a 'decorative' model loosely based on what was believed to look like the Henry Grace a Dieu. (No-one knows what she actually looked like!) Gunports would never have been placed one immediately under another. It's an interesting memento of your grandfather.
×
×
  • Create New...