druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Y.T's trick was to use a new, very sharp scalpel blade. I've done the same thing. I pre-painted the paper (stretched,as I was using acrylic paint), traced the outlines down using white transfer paper (traces wash off afterwards), cut the letters out and glued them on.
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On the BBC website, a new discovery: https://www.bbc.com/news/uk-england-hampshire-50102210
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I don't use a scraper holder at all, Mark. The length of hacksaw blade (teeth filed off!) is held in both hands like a spokeshave. You have much better control than the X-Acto blade in a handle approach. I also (where feasible) rubber cement the strip of molding to be shaped down on a backing board. This acts as a depth stop as well as securing the part.
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If you had asked this question 30 years ago, the answer would have been simple. Since the introduction of graphics programs on computers, Letraset became a dinosaur. I doubt if you can find any these days. In any case, old Letraset tended to craze and lose adhesive strength. Y.T's solution is an elegant one. You could start by printing off a computer-generated version of the lettering as he did. Alternatively, use a fine artist's brush and paint....
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Welcome back, Alan!
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Welcome here, André! As Mark said...
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Perhaps I'll reconsider....
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Very impressive; I'll order a dozen!
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You are having much too much fun with PhotoShop effects!
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Intrepid (or more likely foolhardy!) newbie
druxey replied to SottoVoce's topic in New member Introductions
Beautiful restorations, sotto voce! -
Glad the problem is solved!
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Looks pretty good to me, except for that one larger gap- but you've solved that issue.
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Enjoy your trip/vacation. Will you visit the Niagara/Toronto area? Remember the Art Gallery of Ontario Thomson ship model collection if you are up this way!
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Mark: I soften old hacksaw blades by heating cherry red (propane torch) and air cooling. I use escapement files and razor saw to cut the profiles I need. I don't worry about re-hardening and tempering. The softer steel cuts well and stays sharp enough for a long time. (This is on Castello.) If I do need to touch up the cutter, I simply stone it flat. Easy!
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Live steam Bagnall loco and other railway stuff
druxey replied to michael mott's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Sweet engineering, Michael! -
I lost a lot of good photos with my last computer, but here is an example.
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Look on the site: https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections.html#!cbrowse then search '26 foot pinnace plan' and '19 foot longboat plan'. You can download the plan, then re-size it using the scale on the plan to fit your scale.
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My method of false spice is to unravel the line for a little way, tease out the yarns on a flat surface, then cut them on a long diagonal. Take the line around the block, put a dab of white glue on the frayed end, then pinch and twirl the frayed end against the line at the end of the block to create a tapered false splice. It takes a few tries to master the technique, but gives good results quickly.
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Probably the fiberglass coatings actually accelerated the rot! In my experience, conservation is much more complex (also read 'expensive') when other well-meaning but non-knowledgeable folk have previously 'restored' an artefact or painting.
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Glad it's working out, Mark. My first attempts at making cheeks took forever with serious scrapbox contributions. Each subsequent set has become easier and quicker to make. I hope that's of some consolation!
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It certainly looks that way. Ilhan.
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Well done, Bedford!
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Bob Cleek: Smalt (another blue pigment) was readily available and economical prior to the invention of Prussian Blue. But we digress.
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