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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Just catching up. Looking great! Thank you for explaining that you actually use split leather.
  2. I love Weber's clarinet concerto...but we digress. Why tie yourself in knots carving the oarsmen in one piece when you will be casting them anyway? Thought of casting them in pieces so that, when you assemble them, they can all vary slightly in pose?
  3. Yes, Mitch was a real mensch. I, too, was shocked to read of his death especially at a relatively young age. He was a very friendly and laid-back man. It's obvious from reading the above that he will be much missed. my condolences to his family and friends.
  4. I use a glass container - actually a jam jar for Sparex. Leave the lid loose while heating though!
  5. Tape is good, but I find thread and dilute white glue easier to handle. To adjust the line of the thread, wet your finger and roll the thread up or down as required.
  6. A small hot plate that keeps your coffee hot works just as well for Sparex. Just don't absent-mindedly take a sip!
  7. The gammoning slot is lower than you show on your drawing. It is definitely never on the standard; the strain would tend to pull that piece up. The only hole in the standard is close to the stem, and it is for the main stay collar. The slot will be between the head timbers below the upper cheek. It is probably located between head timbers 2 and 3. This will necessitate modifying the trail board design. (The original draftsman was obviously not a fine artist!) If you are not already aware, fine craftsman that Hahn was, much on his models is stylized. The actual construction of the knee of the head, standard and extension piece (omitted entirely by Hahn) is shown in several books, including Goodwin and Antscherl.
  8. Nice, but is the drawing of a Danish or English cutter? There were national differences.
  9. En anglais, SVP, Yves. Private messages can always be in your first language of choice!
  10. You folk are being spoon-fed by Chuck, so don't complain or whine! In lining off he has done all the work for you. Just follow the mark-out and hear him. Well done, Chuck.
  11. Not simplistic at all. Boxwood has very little apparent grain cut either way. Other species will show more grain in one way than the other, but it is so variable from sample to sample. Personally I don't favor obvious grain structure on a model even at 1:48 scale but, again, it is a matter of personal taste. The best cuts of wood are quarter sawn, where the growth rings run diagonally across the piece as seen in end-grain. There is no clear side or edge grain either way! Hope this clarifies things a bit.
  12. I suspect that this was first done unofficially, then formally adopted. The requirement to remove names was a Napoleonic wartime measure. An 1854 photograph of the Duke of Wellington shows no sign of a name on her stern. See: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:H.M.S._Duke_of_Wellington_at_Keyham,_England_in_1854_by_Capt._Linnaeus_Tripe.jpg Probably Victory should not have her name across the stern unless she were restored to her post 1770, pre-1790's condition. I guess it's a nod to tradition....
  13. I would need to look this up to confirm it, but think that the Admiralty order was to paint the name on the counter in letters 12" high in 1781, and a year later modified to be 'as large as possible'.
  14. Names, when in fashion, were painted on English ships; they did not use raised letters at all. This is a kit-makers' way of making a model look more appealing!
  15. Ziemlich erstaunlich! As everyone has said, outstanding work, Johann. What did you use to imitate leather?
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