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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    An interesting beginning....
  2. druxey
    I wasn't thinking of the spur as a bridge, Steven; just as a locking device to prevent the vessels drifting apart.
  3. druxey
    Hurrah! Nice to see her again in her current state, Michael.
  4. druxey
    Usually blocks are hooked to eyebolts. This means threading a hook onto the strop and seizing it in before wrapping the strop around the block.
  5. druxey
    There has to be at least a deck hook to support the ends of the deck planking!
  6. druxey
    Hmm. Food for thought. Was the above-the-waterline spur a device for locking ships together so that the attackers could board?
  7. druxey
    Ancient galleys had the ram below the waterline: one would want to hole the opposing vessel below the waterline. Much more effective than smashing a few oars and holing the ship above the water!
  8. druxey
    Sorry to disappoint you , but it's a relatively modern, mass produced 'decorative' model (probably from the Far East) that does not resemble any real ship. It's a total fantasy vessel.
  9. druxey
    It has to be heated to cherry red first to soften it, and allowed to air-cool. This process is called tempering. Then the metal can be filed or ground. To re-harden it, heat it again and quench it in oil.
  10. druxey
    In the absence of any firm evidence, probably the most forward cant frame aft would be a reasonable place to end the channel.
  11. druxey
    Brass does work - for a short time. Much better to use tempered hacksaw blade pieces. They last.
  12. druxey
    Well done, Marsalv. Congratulations on finishing up such an elaborate model.
  13. druxey
    Y.T.: I've PM'd you.
  14. druxey
    I would not wish to lose rudder control at a crucial moment of going about either! It does seem like an odd arrangement.
  15. druxey
    While I agree with Bob's comments on cabinet scrapers operating with a burred edge, the right angled edge on a small profiling cutter works just fine. It would be impossible to burr over such a small and complex shape. The moldings shown were all formed using a broken hacksaw blade for the scraper metal. The model is at 1:48 scale.
  16. druxey
    Also, regarding the sheet/horse arrangement: is it possible that the horse rounds aft at the center, providing clearance for the tiller? (Think of an arc, like a tiller sweep.) Does the illustration show the sheet in the boom hard over position?
  17. druxey
    Two more cents' worth: In a contemporary model of a hoy, there is no bobstay. However, a block was hooked in the same position as your longboat sheave for the jib traveller outhaul line. Might I suggest that what you see on the plan of c1800 is similar, but for the jibstay?
  18. druxey
    It would make much more sense to add them now. This will help stabilize and solidify the framing so far.
  19. druxey
    But it's a fabulous standard to aim for, John!
  20. druxey
    If the edge is sharp, a 15 degree angle should be sufficient. As mentioned, many light strokes are far more effective then pressing down. If you do that the tool will either chatter or dig in. Also. be aware of grain direction: sometimes pushing the tool rather than pulling is more effective.
  21. druxey
    I happened across mention of the offset centerboard in my reading last night. The author stated that the mainmast and step were offset to the opposite side to balance things up, or the boat would be better on one tack than the other.
  22. druxey
    Would the original masts and spars have been assembled in serial fashion over a mandrel to back up the rivets?
  23. druxey
    Leaf, whether gold, silver or copper, is incredibly thin. It will show every tiny flaw underneath the surface it is applied to. It is also very tricky to handle. Read any instructional on gilding (gold leafing) and you will see that it requires a lot of practice and skill to apply successfully.
  24. druxey
    In the case shown above, it's an off-centerboard! Usually the keel widens and the board passes through it centrally.
  25. druxey
    Oh, sorry: I thought it was the larger saw, which has a similar fence design. But if you can live with the present tolerance, that's OK as well.

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