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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. I can't speak for this specific drawing, but a typical cutter arrangement had a locker on on side and a seat of ease on the other.
  2. If you have sufficient waterlines, it's possible to reconstruct a body plan.
  3. Thank you for this continuing master class, Ed!
  4. Meanwhile we will wait, all agog! Again, congratulations on a fine Swan model!
  5. Wouldn't the planking be in more random widths? No sawmills back then, as far as I know. Look at photos of Mary Rose's deck to see what I mean.
  6. Indeed: cotton buds, water or saliva and a ton of patience! Roll, don't scrub the tip. Have fun, Griptite (Thynne?)
  7. Well done on the figure, Toni! All your model needs now is a nice base and case.
  8. Chuck: you've correctly guessed who gifted me with that handle! Thanks again, Toni!
  9. Remember to run proof diagonals when you've done, to prove that your lines are all fair. Any wobbles in the lines will quickly act as tell-tales.
  10. Would it not be depend on the size of the links and their ability to be turned over the wheel without too much mechanical disadvantage? An 18th century wheel was 24" in diameter, the links 7" between pivot points and the crank throw was about 15". However, several men at a time turned the cranks.
  11. Welcome aboard!
  12. I was gifted a Bard Parker style handle some years ago that has a lovely balance. Google: Bard Parker 371070 Scalpel Handle Size 7
  13. It depends on the definition of 'length'. It could be length on the upper deck, length on the keel, length overall, etc. One needs to know the definition of the length quoted.
  14. So much depends on personal taste. Many model-makers (myself included) use Castello boxwood, aka lemonwood or lancewood. It is creamy yellow ochre in color, has very tight grain and, if well seasoned, does not warp. Also, if you are modeling a 1770's era ship, sections of the masts and spars are square or octagonal. It is much easier to cut and shape them than to turn them. That was the was it was done in the old days as there weren't lathes that long!
  15. Hints on carving: 1) I like to make a Plasticene model of the carving first (at a larger size). That way I can figure out the problems before actually trying to carve. 2) Keep the carving on the end of a long stick to hold or put in the vise until it is done. For a figure I cut the slot and glue in a 'handle'. If you use white glue, you can free the finished figure using rubbing alcohol. Saves accidentally carving your fingers! 3) Study photos of figureheads and sculptures. One learns a lot by looking at what others have done.
  16. Some time ago I looked at the downloads Yamaha put out. Unlike you, I only looked! I look forward to seeing this go together, Dan.
  17. One needs a HSS slitting blade and zero-clearance table insert to successfully cut such narrow strips.
  18. There is also pleasure in handling and using a well designed and beautifully crafted instrument or tool. You will never experience this if you only use 'handyman specials'. And you will get better results. It's worth waiting while you save up for a really good quality tool.
  19. Not quite endless, Daniel; you are nearly there!
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