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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    I suspect the definitive scheme still needs to be written - by you, Allan!
  2. druxey
    Watchmakers' screws?
  3. druxey
    Fair winds to Albertic, Michael! That was a magnificent restoration saga and result.
  4. druxey
    I like the faux countersunk screws, Michael.
  5. druxey
    I've used both methods. However, it's quicker if one does not have to re-set the fence after each cut. The warning of ensuring adequate blade/guide clearance cannot be repeated too often!
  6. druxey
    A nice subject. Looks like you are off to a good start.
  7. druxey
    If it's any help, I gave up using battens years ago. They are excellent for full-size ship-building, but not for model work. Instead, I use heavy black thread. A small dab of white glue at each frame or bulkhead does it. To adjust, moisten your fingertip and roll the thread up or down as needed.
  8. druxey
    Ian: It's the Chapelle draught of the 14 gun unidentified schooner (post #124) that has station lines at right angles to the keel. The Salvini one does not.
  9. druxey
    Well done and well finished, Toni. The display stand is very good: it does not detract from the model. Congratulations, and on to ??
  10. druxey
    Well, welcome aboard, Ab! Glad you could join us. It's great to be able to communicate with you: I wanted to say how impressed I was with the Rijkmuseum when I visited last year. The holographic animation of the half-hull model was superb! Hopefully it will inspire younger visitors to look more closely at the other models on display.
  11. druxey
    I agree that sometimes, lacking a time machine or specific evidence to the contrary, 'best guess' after extensive research must make do. Annoying for those of us with OCD, but necessary!
  12. druxey
    One on each side athwarthips, I believe.
  13. druxey
    I use 90% (or higher percent) rubbing alcohol (isopropanol) for dissolving PVA, not meths!
  14. druxey
    Oooh! A nice long-term project for someone. Looks like a beautiful production, but not cheap.
  15. druxey
    Exactly, Ed. Stressing the joint before it is fully dry invites failure. How do I know this?
  16. druxey
    Hah! Now you are really fancy!
  17. druxey
    The suspicion raised about the one of the components of sanding sealer reacting with Titebond II might be your answer.
  18. druxey
    Nice progress, Maury. Good thinking ahead re the pivot.
  19. druxey
    Mad, I tell you, mad.... Well done, Dan.
  20. druxey
    Well played, sir! I have occasion to splice lines in place. A fairly imperceptible way is to fray the ends to be joined by separating out the strands and 'combing' them, them cutting them diagonally. A small wood block in one hand and a sharp scalpel blade in the other achieves this. A small amount of white glue on one end and (with clean, dry fingers) roll the two ends together to make a nice tapered together faux splice. Once you have the technique down, it is a reliable and surprisingly strong method of 'splicing' at small scale. I use this technique extensively for eye splices as well: they hold nicely under tension.
  21. druxey
    A very well put-together video. Just don't set your planes down on their soles as the guy did with some near the end.
  22. druxey
    Well done on getting the belaying pins proportionally correct, rather than the inflated chubby-handled ones that are seen on most kits and some scratch-built models.
  23. druxey
    Nice dovetails, Michael. Enjoy hauling out tomorrow! End of season is always a little sad, I find.
  24. druxey
    Open between the treads and two carriage pieces to make the sides of the steps would be more likely.
  25. druxey
    Very nice, Gerald!

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