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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Y.T.: I've PM'd you.
  2. druxey
    I would not wish to lose rudder control at a crucial moment of going about either! It does seem like an odd arrangement.
  3. druxey
    While I agree with Bob's comments on cabinet scrapers operating with a burred edge, the right angled edge on a small profiling cutter works just fine. It would be impossible to burr over such a small and complex shape. The moldings shown were all formed using a broken hacksaw blade for the scraper metal. The model is at 1:48 scale.
  4. druxey
    Also, regarding the sheet/horse arrangement: is it possible that the horse rounds aft at the center, providing clearance for the tiller? (Think of an arc, like a tiller sweep.) Does the illustration show the sheet in the boom hard over position?
  5. druxey
    Two more cents' worth: In a contemporary model of a hoy, there is no bobstay. However, a block was hooked in the same position as your longboat sheave for the jib traveller outhaul line. Might I suggest that what you see on the plan of c1800 is similar, but for the jibstay?
  6. druxey
    It would make much more sense to add them now. This will help stabilize and solidify the framing so far.
  7. druxey
    But it's a fabulous standard to aim for, John!
  8. druxey
    If the edge is sharp, a 15 degree angle should be sufficient. As mentioned, many light strokes are far more effective then pressing down. If you do that the tool will either chatter or dig in. Also. be aware of grain direction: sometimes pushing the tool rather than pulling is more effective.
  9. druxey
    I happened across mention of the offset centerboard in my reading last night. The author stated that the mainmast and step were offset to the opposite side to balance things up, or the boat would be better on one tack than the other.
  10. druxey
    Would the original masts and spars have been assembled in serial fashion over a mandrel to back up the rivets?
  11. druxey
    Leaf, whether gold, silver or copper, is incredibly thin. It will show every tiny flaw underneath the surface it is applied to. It is also very tricky to handle. Read any instructional on gilding (gold leafing) and you will see that it requires a lot of practice and skill to apply successfully.
  12. druxey
    In the case shown above, it's an off-centerboard! Usually the keel widens and the board passes through it centrally.
  13. druxey
    Oh, sorry: I thought it was the larger saw, which has a similar fence design. But if you can live with the present tolerance, that's OK as well.
  14. druxey
    You could always make your own, you know....
  15. druxey
    I bought this saw before the Byrnes' saw came on the market. The original fence is problematic. However, fitted with an Accurizer II fence, the problem is solved.
  16. druxey
    Not ugly, Javier; let us call her 'idiosyncratic'. And it's a very nice model indeed! Well done.
  17. druxey
    Thank you, Roger. This book fills a void, it seems.
  18. druxey
    Keep the humidity up in the workshop, please!
  19. druxey
    A very instructive series on metal rigging work! Thank you for sharing your techniques, Frank.
  20. druxey
    Rather than packing tape, try 3M Magic tape. It is slightly frosted and takes pencil well. Even better is the 'temporary' version with re-positionable adhesive.
  21. druxey
    Amazing joinery skills! I get a smile on my face every time I look at your progress photos, Amalio.
  22. druxey
    Congratulations on completing a long and painstaking restoration, Michael! You've done a beautiful job on Albertic. I can only hope that your client is truly appreciative of the craftsmanship that has gone into the model. P.S. In the second photo (starboard companionway grating), is that bilge keel slightly loose?
  23. druxey
    Looking great!
  24. druxey
    Ah, thanks for the clarification, Steven.
  25. druxey
    Congratulations on completing your fine model, Albert! Now what is next, I wonder?

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