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druxey

NRG Member
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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Those details are lovely, and the subtle curve in the horse looks just right!
  2. When forming brass - or silver, for that matter - one cannot anneal too often. If you don't, the metal will tear. Beautifully done, Michael. That is a tough shape to achieve.
  3. You may be running out of clamps soon.... Looking good!
  4. My watchmakers' screw slotting files go down to a little under 0.010" wide. Unlike fret files, they cut a square bottom slot. Jewellers' saw blades are a good and cheaper alternative!
  5. Any guitar fret file I've ever seen is far larger and rounded compared to the minute watchmakers' screw slotting ones.
  6. Nice progress, Pat. Are there really only three turns of line around the drum of the wheel?
  7. It's not cheap, but a watchmakers' screw slotting file is perfect for fine detailed profiles.
  8. Chuck's comments on planking (post #131) are right on. We have so many older books that have brainwashed us into wrestling straight planks into shapes they can't assume, using so many clamps, pins and hold-downs of every variety. Most of this received wisdom needs to be challenged. If you planks are properly spiled and shaped, of a suitable specie of wood to the correct thickness, bent using moisture, heat or a combination thereof, you should never need to clamp them!
  9. Please send the buyer my way. I have this rather large bridge for sale, you see....
  10. I wasn't thinking of the spur as a bridge, Steven; just as a locking device to prevent the vessels drifting apart.
  11. Hurrah! Nice to see her again in her current state, Michael.
  12. Usually blocks are hooked to eyebolts. This means threading a hook onto the strop and seizing it in before wrapping the strop around the block.
  13. There has to be at least a deck hook to support the ends of the deck planking!
  14. Hmm. Food for thought. Was the above-the-waterline spur a device for locking ships together so that the attackers could board?
  15. Ancient galleys had the ram below the waterline: one would want to hole the opposing vessel below the waterline. Much more effective than smashing a few oars and holing the ship above the water!
  16. Sorry to disappoint you , but it's a relatively modern, mass produced 'decorative' model (probably from the Far East) that does not resemble any real ship. It's a total fantasy vessel.
  17. It has to be heated to cherry red first to soften it, and allowed to air-cool. This process is called tempering. Then the metal can be filed or ground. To re-harden it, heat it again and quench it in oil.
  18. In the absence of any firm evidence, probably the most forward cant frame aft would be a reasonable place to end the channel.
  19. Brass does work - for a short time. Much better to use tempered hacksaw blade pieces. They last.
  20. Well done, Marsalv. Congratulations on finishing up such an elaborate model.
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