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druxey

NRG Member
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Everything posted by druxey

  1. I assume you must mark the positions of the drainage holes very carefully before cutting them off the model! Beautiful work, Daniel.
  2. Great progress, Maury! Enjoy fairing up your framing.
  3. I suspect the definitive scheme still needs to be written - by you, Allan!
  4. Fair winds to Albertic, Michael! That was a magnificent restoration saga and result.
  5. I like the faux countersunk screws, Michael.
  6. I've used both methods. However, it's quicker if one does not have to re-set the fence after each cut. The warning of ensuring adequate blade/guide clearance cannot be repeated too often!
  7. A nice subject. Looks like you are off to a good start.
  8. If it's any help, I gave up using battens years ago. They are excellent for full-size ship-building, but not for model work. Instead, I use heavy black thread. A small dab of white glue at each frame or bulkhead does it. To adjust, moisten your fingertip and roll the thread up or down as needed.
  9. Ian: It's the Chapelle draught of the 14 gun unidentified schooner (post #124) that has station lines at right angles to the keel. The Salvini one does not.
  10. Well done and well finished, Toni. The display stand is very good: it does not detract from the model. Congratulations, and on to ??
  11. Well, welcome aboard, Ab! Glad you could join us. It's great to be able to communicate with you: I wanted to say how impressed I was with the Rijkmuseum when I visited last year. The holographic animation of the half-hull model was superb! Hopefully it will inspire younger visitors to look more closely at the other models on display.
  12. I agree that sometimes, lacking a time machine or specific evidence to the contrary, 'best guess' after extensive research must make do. Annoying for those of us with OCD, but necessary!
  13. One on each side athwarthips, I believe.
  14. Oooh! A nice long-term project for someone. Looks like a beautiful production, but not cheap.
  15. Exactly, Ed. Stressing the joint before it is fully dry invites failure. How do I know this?
  16. The suspicion raised about the one of the components of sanding sealer reacting with Titebond II might be your answer.
  17. Nice progress, Maury. Good thinking ahead re the pivot.
  18. Mad, I tell you, mad.... Well done, Dan.
  19. Well played, sir! I have occasion to splice lines in place. A fairly imperceptible way is to fray the ends to be joined by separating out the strands and 'combing' them, them cutting them diagonally. A small wood block in one hand and a sharp scalpel blade in the other achieves this. A small amount of white glue on one end and (with clean, dry fingers) roll the two ends together to make a nice tapered together faux splice. Once you have the technique down, it is a reliable and surprisingly strong method of 'splicing' at small scale. I use this technique extensively for eye splices as well: they hold nicely under tension.
  20. A very well put-together video. Just don't set your planes down on their soles as the guy did with some near the end.
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