Jump to content
Supplies of the Ship Modeler's Handbook are running out. Get your copy NOW before they are gone! Click on photo to order. ×

druxey

NRG Member
  • Posts

    13,130
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by druxey

  1. Can you be more specific as to the 'dark glue' that you used, Paul?
  2. This detail is seen in the attached illustration, taken from The Fully Framed Model, Volume IV:
  3. That "Salvini" draught has a number of anomalies. The most striking is that the station lines and port sides are parallel to the waterline, (hence by inference the framing), not the keel. This was very unusual at that time period. There are many draughts of small ships with greater keel drag: all have framing set at right angles to the keel, not waterline. Compare this with the brig of war taken from Steel, and the 14 gun schooner, also illustrated above. It makes me a little suspicious!
  4. I suspect your gut feeling on spar sizes will be as near correct as dammit is to swearing!
  5. This is an interesting side discussion. Some years ago I had a protracted discussion with a knowledgeable person over shroud laniards. I had built a model that he otherwise found impeccable, but he took me to task over my light colored shroud laniards. I countered that these were running lines, hence not 'standing' color. He insisted that the laniards were dark. I have since been converted to brown line for these lines!
  6. Usually brass wire, blackened, is used to make eyebolts. If you have a pair of needle-nosed pliers, it makes the job fairly easy.
  7. Oh, my. Fancy framing! Those through timbers are tricky, but you succeeded very nicely.
  8. The advice above by Russ is right on, Dave. Also check the planking tutorials on this site.
  9. Always a delight to view your progress, Ed.
  10. Thank you for the detailed information, Bob. Certainly it is nice to carve (I've used it for half hulls), but the fine dust produced when sawing or sanding is a serious issue to control. One person I know has become allergic to yellow cedar.
  11. I hand-paint mine on SilkSpan - it has wet strength, unlike tissue paper.
  12. You have excellent advice above, Malcolm. We all start inexperienced and unskilled. It's a good place to start - it can only improve from there! You'll find good answers to your questions as you go along. There will be mistakes, but that's all part of the process. Have fun!
  13. Never leave masking tape on for a moment longer than needed - but you know that, now. Glad the fix-it worked out well!
  14. I've seen models of centerboards showing a chain to a horizontal drum and two-handled winch. (Look for 'centreboards' on the RMG 'Collections/ models' site, but note the English spelling!
  15. Nice work, Mike. But do the parts need any finish at all? Some clamps have the jaws lined with thin cork sheet.
  16. Paul is correct for the era of Triton. The 'dropped' planks at the sides were hooked, as shown nicely above. You will, as master shipwright, determine the layout and taper yourself.
  17. The collection of completed frames in the photo really demonstrates the quantity of wood a ship's framing consumed. Very nicely done, Albert.
  18. Assuming your model is late 18th century and British, a 3-pounder was typically 4' 6" long. At 1:48 scale (and in metric!) that would be about 28mm.
  19. Frank: I'm sorry to read that you have other more pressing matters right now, and hope that they are not too serious. Best wishes while your attention is focussed on these. We can wait until you return.
  20. Venting a case will help, but not necessarily eliminate the issue. Sealing lead-bearing metal parts before they deteriorate with something like clear nail varnish will also help, but is no guarantee against break-down over time. The most effective measures? Never use lead or white metal parts. Replace them with lead-free fittings and dispose of the originals using hazardous materials handling and at a suitable waste facility.
×
×
  • Create New...