druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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HMCSS Victoria 1855 by BANYAN - 1:72
druxey replied to BANYAN's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Painting faux wood is an art in itself. Look in the library for a book on faux finishes. That will get you the idea. I usually start with an undercoat of either raw umber or raw siena, depending on the kind of wood I'm imitating, then overcoat it with glazes of darker color, dragged or dry-brushed, depending on the look I'm after. Try this on test pieces until you get a look you like.- 993 replies
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- gun dispatch vessel
- victoria
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Welcome back, Michael. And about time, too! We've missed you.
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- albertic
- ocean liner
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Lovely as usual. How will you get the dust off the lower deck?
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Very impressive work!
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mezza lune = 'half moon' or semi-circle (see Woodrat, post 359).
- 263 replies
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- nave tonda
- round ship
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I have to agree with Roger's remarks. I've seen historic models with 'restored' or re-jigged rigging that is patently wrong. One I examined recently had an original line expended by wrapping it repeatedly around the heel of the bowsprit!
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I'm sure that there were variances in cleat design from shipyard to shipyard. (You can always use that as an unanswerable argument!) Mast trucks had two small sheaves, one on either side, for hoisting signals or flags. They were attached to the mast head with a small square mortise and tenon. Steel describes them as 'an oblate spheroid'!
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And you are a musician as well? There is no end to your talents!
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- royal katherine
- ship of the line
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Looking good, Mike!
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The scuttle (rather than hatchway) to the bread room was a lid in two layers. The top layer is the thickness of the deck plank, then a thinner lower layer running crossways and narrower all round, providing the lip. There are two ringbolts on opposite diagonal corners for lifting the lid.
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Your skill is exemplary, Amalio!
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Nice size, Michael!
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Silver soldering multiple joints is a challenge. Your solution of a one-shot deal was quite creative! Well done, Toni. I was taught to use different melting point solders for such situations. For the first joint or joints use 'hard' (highest melting point) solder, then 'medium' for the next and 'soft' (with the lowest M.P.) for the last joints. I believe that there is an even 'softer' grade now available. The other trick is to paint on yellow oxide (powder in water) over the joints you wish to protect; this inhibits the solder from re-melting. My jeweller friend showed me these techniques some years ago. Thank you, Shannon! You've saved my sanity on many occasions.
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Sorry to read that you have run into walls when gathering information. I guess I've been fortunate in that folk have generally been very helpful in the Western cultural tradition. Anyway, good for you in trying, Clare!
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Pandora by marsalv - FINISHED - 1:52
druxey replied to marsalv's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Very nice work. The correct number of reef points on the sails are particularly impressive! -
Square or round tuck?
druxey replied to lmagna's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Without knowledge of the particular builders of Providence, it would be hard to determine which method was used in that specific case. My personal bet would be a square stern (not tuck), as this was more common on smaller vessels. Your observation on Chuck's Cheerful is a good one. This detail of construction is not usually seen on modern models. It was done this way with rabbets in both directions to prevent plank end-grain from being exposed to water. If not done, moisture followed by rot would quickly wick its way in. One can see this detail of construction on models in the USNA museum collection, as well as being explained in the new book on The Hayling Hoy of 1759-60. -
Bob: what a great idea: a bi-species hygrometer!
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Also good references to consider: Darcy Lever, The Young Sea Officers' Sheet Anchor (A slightly later time period, though) David Antscherl, The Fully Framed Model, Volume IV C. Nepean Longridge The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships (Again, slightly later)
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Sweet, Mike! Very clean work. Your clamps look like a useful addition to the workshop.
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This looks like it's going to be another fascinating reconstruction! Interesting start, Dick.
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- nave tonda
- round ship
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Another factor to consider is that wood movement is greater across the grain than along it. That will affect any empirical measurements you might make.
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Gondola by AntonyUK
druxey replied to AntonyUK's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1901 - Present Day
An interesting challenge! Look forward to see how you will deal with this banana shaped hull.
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