Jump to content
Supplies of the Ship Modeler's Handbook are running out. Get your copy NOW before they are gone! Click on photo to order. ×

druxey

NRG Member
  • Posts

    13,130
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by druxey

  1. I use an electric coffee-cup warmer for heating my Sparex.
  2. Silver soldering multiple joints is a challenge. Your solution of a one-shot deal was quite creative! Well done, Toni. I was taught to use different melting point solders for such situations. For the first joint or joints use 'hard' (highest melting point) solder, then 'medium' for the next and 'soft' (with the lowest M.P.) for the last joints. I believe that there is an even 'softer' grade now available. The other trick is to paint on yellow oxide (powder in water) over the joints you wish to protect; this inhibits the solder from re-melting. My jeweller friend showed me these techniques some years ago. Thank you, Shannon! You've saved my sanity on many occasions.
  3. Sorry to read that you have run into walls when gathering information. I guess I've been fortunate in that folk have generally been very helpful in the Western cultural tradition. Anyway, good for you in trying, Clare!
  4. Very nice work. The correct number of reef points on the sails are particularly impressive!
  5. Without knowledge of the particular builders of Providence, it would be hard to determine which method was used in that specific case. My personal bet would be a square stern (not tuck), as this was more common on smaller vessels. Your observation on Chuck's Cheerful is a good one. This detail of construction is not usually seen on modern models. It was done this way with rabbets in both directions to prevent plank end-grain from being exposed to water. If not done, moisture followed by rot would quickly wick its way in. One can see this detail of construction on models in the USNA museum collection, as well as being explained in the new book on The Hayling Hoy of 1759-60.
  6. Bob: what a great idea: a bi-species hygrometer!
  7. Also good references to consider: Darcy Lever, The Young Sea Officers' Sheet Anchor (A slightly later time period, though) David Antscherl, The Fully Framed Model, Volume IV C. Nepean Longridge The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships (Again, slightly later)
  8. Sweet, Mike! Very clean work. Your clamps look like a useful addition to the workshop.
  9. This looks like it's going to be another fascinating reconstruction! Interesting start, Dick.
  10. Another factor to consider is that wood movement is greater across the grain than along it. That will affect any empirical measurements you might make.
  11. An interesting challenge! Look forward to see how you will deal with this banana shaped hull.
  12. Redshirt: Yes, all the frames, etc., are lofted for you on the plan set. DocBlake: I'm sure you could enlarge plans to 1:24 for your private use. Davyboy: Sorry to read that postage rates are so steep to Switzerland.
  13. Beautiful workmanship as ever. However, I'm confused: isn't the garboard strake the outer plank or plate next to the keel? Or is this term applied differently in metal ships?
  14. "The bit that curves up" is the deadwood. I'm interested to see how this all turns out!
  15. That aft twisty piece is a beast, but you've tamed it beautifully, Mike! The full size aft platform clamp must have been really interesting to install on the real ship.
×
×
  • Create New...