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druxey

NRG Member
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Everything posted by druxey

  1. The collection of completed frames in the photo really demonstrates the quantity of wood a ship's framing consumed. Very nicely done, Albert.
  2. Assuming your model is late 18th century and British, a 3-pounder was typically 4' 6" long. At 1:48 scale (and in metric!) that would be about 28mm.
  3. Frank: I'm sorry to read that you have other more pressing matters right now, and hope that they are not too serious. Best wishes while your attention is focussed on these. We can wait until you return.
  4. Venting a case will help, but not necessarily eliminate the issue. Sealing lead-bearing metal parts before they deteriorate with something like clear nail varnish will also help, but is no guarantee against break-down over time. The most effective measures? Never use lead or white metal parts. Replace them with lead-free fittings and dispose of the originals using hazardous materials handling and at a suitable waste facility.
  5. Congratulations, Dan. I agree that the light maple base drew the eye too much away from the model. A good decision to stain it. Well done all round.
  6. Ditto from me, Clare! Sorry you have to deal with an uninsured idiot.
  7. I've never seen a Fearsome Step Drill before. I'd be terrified to use it on anything, let alone my model! You must have nerves of steel.
  8. Excellent! That must be the last frame.
  9. Don't the side planks curve up more to match the top of the sides?
  10. You may need to take an average reading between uncompressed and maximum compression, Rob.
  11. Very, very organized and neat as well, Albert!
  12. Nice painting. It could use a clean and revarnish to bring out the true colors. Hopefully you have a professional conservator nearby: that painting is worth it.
  13. If a thread is laid up right handed, and you need to spin a right-handed line, all you need do is 'unspin' the separate strands (threads) first. As the headstock turns the strands will slacken, so move the tailstock away from the headstock. At a certain point the strands will commence to lay up again left-handed and you will see the tailstock begin to move toward the headstock. Check with a loupe until the strands are fully laid left-handed and continue to spin your line as usual.
  14. Grumble about the time it takes to 'treenail'? Try a ship of the line! Seriously, your model looks very nice, Chuck. One question: weren't bottom boards removable for bailing and repair purposes? If so, that means less treenails!
  15. If you decide you'd like to try ship model-making, you will find plenty of willing, friendly hands to offer tips and advice in support of your efforts.
  16. I cut the planks either side of a port slightly overlength then, using a sanding stick with beveled sides away from the sandpaper face, gently sand to the frame edge. To keep the port square athwartships, the stick is rigid and long enough to pass through the port opposite.
  17. If it is a large scale model, thin plastic sheet does nicely.
  18. Good to see you back. Sorry to read about your accident. I hope you are fully recovered now.
  19. Ten! Those are the most pintles and gudgeons I've ever seen on one rudder! Well done - such neat work!
  20. Perhaps a little tideline weed around the bridge footings and weathering? Love the underwater life!
  21. Sorry you are under the weather: I hope you recover soon, Rob. What you did get done looks neat, though.
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