druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Convincing grass, other than (in the photos) the 'Pasture' color is a bit too intense. That other packet of flock marked 'Spring' looks better to my eye. Nice progress with your landscaping. -
Loverly rendering work,Terry. Wasn't Paul Pry a character in a play?
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- capstan
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I'd be highly wary of using dye on the ends of planks at the ports. It will be all but impossible to seal the grain sufficiently and yet allow the dye to penetrate - which is the whole purpose of dye as opposed to paint. Perhaps consider using acrylic paint or adhering pre-dyed paper instead? As for blue, the colors seen on contemporary models vary from a greenish-blue to a deep blue-black and everything between. Pick your poison! My personal preference is Humbrol matt 25.
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Miserable SOBs!!!! What cheek! Again, my condolences. I suppose you could try calling their bluff for royalties....
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A picture would be helpful, Brunel!
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Well, E&T, welcome to the club of those of us whose work has been ripped off by the unscrupulous. I suppose imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, but it is still unethical and unconscionable. Unfortunately, unless you have very deep pockets and can afford international legal costs (which these pirates know only too well is unlikely) there is nothing you can do other than alert the moderators on this site to post a warning to members to shun this offering. My condolences.
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No, Dan: It's "Measure twice, cut once, then blame the tape measure."
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Beautifully done, Patrick.
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Wintergreen: this advice is good for paint as it stays on the surface. However, dye sinks into the wood and along the grain, so will travel under the varnished tape edge.
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I did actually notice the original leaded lights were not quite right, but decided not to mention it. I'm so glad someone else did and that the new ones are so much better! Nicely re-done, Doris.
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- royal katherine
- ship of the line
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Dear Shipman, what you have written is a valuable reminder to us all: primary sources are always better and more reliable than secondary ones!
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Impressive save with the hawses, Dan! You are making a very clean job of this model. I'm impressed.
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For imitating different species of wood, there are several good books on faux painting. Here is an example of a completely faux painted baseboard imitating burlwood.
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With all due respect, the freeboard - the distance from waterline to lower gun ports - was between 4' 6" and 5' 0" when fully laden, not at launch. Were this so, the ship, when rigged, armed, provisioned and manned would not make it far out of harbor!
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The overall effect of the gallery is quite charming. Have fun with the quarter pieces!
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Sometimes the fore and aft surfaces of the head timbers are also painted blue - or black.
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This means completion in sight! Nice work on the case, Maury. What specie of wood is that?
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A deep cut line is necessary for it to be effective. The depth is roughly equivalent to the penetration depth of the dye. Also, I brush dye only to within about 1/16" of that cut-line. The dye spreads to hit the line and then, hopefully, not beyond it!
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I agree with Greg that one needs to be extremely carful with dye. My own strategy for the bow end of the wale was to dye the foremost pieces before installing them on the model. Of course, there will be sanding of the wale after, but the extreme hooding ends of those planks should not need touching up with dye.
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The sail is the complete arm: the vanes are the cross-slats.
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Nice realistic populating work, Dan. Happy holidays to you, too.
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- michelangelo
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Might it be easier to either invert the hull for these strakes or lie it on its side?
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Your comment on canvas is interesting, HH. It was often painted, sometimes to resemble green patinated copper. Usually the canvas was laid down over wood boards. A real life example is seen on the roof of Prince Frederick's barge in the Royal Museums Greenwich.
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