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druxey

NRG Member
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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Well re-cycled, Keith. I shuddered at your description of running the lathe at 200rpm to start off with!
  2. Viele grusse, Barbara! That is a bitter-sweet story. I'm delighted that you are helping to complete the rigging on your father's model. To be honest, most of us need time to figure out the complex rigging from this era. The work that your father did on the hull etc., is beautifully done and the completed model will be a family heirloom, I'm sure. He is very fortunate in his choice of daughter!
  3. Excellent news, E&T! Too bad they did not establish authorship before they went ahead. Hopefully, they will on another occasion.
  4. I'm sorry. After an extensive search on the internet, the only version of the photograph you describe is of such low resolution that I cannot make out any detail whatsoever. If you have a friend with a computer who can find a version of this with clear detail, perhaps he/she could post this here for us to look at. Otherwise, I don't think we can be of help to you.
  5. Thank you, Mark. Hopefully the question is now resolved and that you will get a nicely faired result as well. BTW, you almost fooled me with your draught (above): at first I thought I was looking at a contemporary drawing! Very neatly done.
  6. Thank you, Mark and Mark. (This is getting confusing!) The sketch just above reflects exactly the route I took with Polyphemus. It worked out nicely. As Resolution was a much 'boxier' shape, two pieces were required to fill the triangular gap, as shown.
  7. I agree, Mark P. However, my question is; is this a separate piece of bottom plank, or shaped from the aft end of that wale plank?
  8. Models that I've seen usually do not curve around quite so much. However, do you notice that triangular piece seen on the stern view? It sits on the outer end of the wing transom. Is this a separate piece or is it cut into the aft end of that wale plank? If the latter, this is something new (at least, to me!).
  9. Well, I can't definitively say it's the right track, but it does work!
  10. Beautifully done, Patrick. Bien fait, monsieur! Je tire mon chapeau. (I tip my hat to you.)
  11. It is a very tricky area indeed, Mark. On my 64, I had to also carve a shallow rabbet on the inner side of that aftermost wale piece so that the bottom plank below it could curve around smoothly and in contact with the frames. Whether this was exactly what was done in full-size practice I cannot say, but seems reasonable. There was still a small triangular gap that was filled with a piece of plank outboard of the last bottom plank.
  12. Hardly worth the trouble: the gale would have blown over by then!
  13. Not American, but the right era and size: search Schank sliding keel on the RMG web site under 'Collections'. There are several pages of plans of vessels as well as the raising/lowering mechanisms. An example is here:
  14. We look forward to your next project, Dick. Bring it on!
  15. Congratulations on a fine finishing flourish! So, what's next?
  16. Watchmakers' tweezers, perhaps?
  17. Such joints are generally referred to as tabled joints.
  18. All I can see missing is a nice nameplate mounted on the baseboard, Maury. Otherwise, it's really nice to see a lesser-modelled subject. Congrats on a job well done.
  19. Well researched and well reconstructed. I'm in awe of your courage in tackling a ship of this era and producing such a convincing result. Altogether a lovely job, Dick. Congratulations!
  20. Yes, if you can refer us to where to find the picture, that would be very helpful.
  21. Finding the first grating assembled incorrectly must have been very annoying. Hats off to you re-making it correctly! Lovely cannon castings as well.
  22. I hate to mention this and hope it's an artifact of photography, but the hull appears to be developing a slight twist (check the last stern-on photo). If so and I'm right, it should be correctable at this point. Nice, clean work though.
  23. Nice sketches, as others have already noted, Mark. That problematic last piece was apparently shaped rather than bent in the shipyard, so you are in good company. Carve the inner surface first, fit the joint, attach, then carve/file/sand the outer surface to shape, would be a good strategy. Good luck with it!
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